Chain Sharpener

[BPS. LLC]

True Butch, butt you haven't tried the PFERD hand filing system. I think it's marketed under "SharpForce" or some cute name from Husky. It's German genius, doing the tooth AND raker in one pass. Look for it as pro dealers or @ Baileys' catalog. Except for big rock or deep wire nicks, I'll never go back (back) to any electrical grinder.
Reccommended by 9 out of 10 %$#@*&%.

Is this what you're referring to?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17301&catID=

 

[logbutcher]

Is this what you're referring to?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=17301&catID=

That's the one. Be sure to match the PFERD to your chain(s) spec. Get extra files for both sides of the Pferd...files wear fast especially with Stihl chain.

You'll love it better than ......................

 

[Cambium]

I had a hard time sharpening and gave up so I kept buying chains when they dulled out...I figure spending $15 is worth it instead of wasting time "trying" to sharpen...

But then I learned....Its not hard. 7-15 strokes each tooth one direction slightly angled. An 18" chain takes 10-15 minutes. Big deal. The trick is to start sharpening AS SOON AS you feel its not cutting the wood.

 

[muncybob]

Even just a "touch up" job makes a big difference! I have yet to learn how to file the chain completely but for the 1st time the other day I used the round file my buddy gave me with his saw and "eyed" the cutters angle...started with just 3 passes each to just try it out. After cutting a fair amount I stepped it up to 5 per tooth and so far so good. I'm going to continue to refine this and try to figure out the flat file part.....much better than $9 every 3 weeks to the hardware store. I wish there was somebody nearby to show me exactly what I should be doing though.

 

[Butch(OH)]

The trick is to start sharpening AS SOON AS you feel its not cutting the wood.

Yes! and before is even better. Easier to file, easier on the bar, easier on the motor, just plain better. In clean cutting in our wood 3-4 file strokes per tank of fuel would keep a person in fine shape. We do a lot of cutting with other people when we cut for charity and it totaly amazes me how many people fight dull saws, I mean like they are dead dull when they take them out of the case. They watch us cut and the standard comment is hey, I need a saw like that one! No wonder they sell guide bars by the pallet, LOL.

 

[AIM]

I'm gonna bet that the Oregon sharpener is probably a good one. I have the cheap Northern tool grinder that many people here have bought. I like it.
Just so you know. The electric grinders aren't any different than hand sharpening so far as using the tool correctly.
Many people think that the grinders are simply "slap a chain on it and grind away". Then the complain about it and swear that hand sharpening is the only way to go.
Learn the tricks. Go slow. pay attention to wheel shape. I won't say it's better than hand filing but it's no worse when used properly.

 

[super3]

A grinder is just like any tool. Use it correctly it does a nice job quickly. Use it incorrectly it does a terrible job quicker.
A file used correctly will do a nice job a little slower. Use it incorrectly it does a poor job slower.
Whichever you get and use, learn to use it correctly.

:agree2:

When the file nazis claim that grinders wear out chains faster, that says they don't know how to use a grinder.

Yep,hard to admit defeat for some.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Just cause I like to argue I guess but I realy cant go along with the quicker part for touch up sharpening. Without ever putting a watch to it I am quite certain I can mount a saw in the big vise and take 3-4 strokes on each cutter lots quicker than I can demount, grind, clean the bar and mountings and remount a chain. I tend to run chains out one at a time as apposed to 4-10 at a time and that makes a differance for sure, everybody's habits are differant. I not new to "discussing" this, for 35 years have went back and forth with my B-in-law about this as he is a chain grinder who takes 4-5 chains to the field and changes them instead of sharpening. I take one chain to the field and a file unless I expect to find hidden treasures in the wood. We both get our wood cut.

Until today I didnt realize I was a file Nazi LOL I kinda like that handle.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

This is something I have to learn - as in, I've never even tried to sharpen a chain yet. A kind member here on AS showed me the basics a while back but haven't put those basics to use yet. The old adage "Use it or lose it" definitely applies to me.

We attended an auction around Labor Day and I bought a box of chainsaw 'stuff' - some chain oil, about 5 chains that I don't need (Oregon 91VG056G if anyone is interested) and a tool called File-n-joint which (at the time) I had never heard of but thought "Hey, that looks interesting." I guess I am still deciding whether to use the FNJ or freehand.

I haven't used my Dolmar all that much but now have a pile of free oak (!) sitting on my driveway that needs some shortening up so I get to play with my saw. I've run about 3 - 4 tanks of gas through the saw so far so going by what others are saying here (touching up the chain every tank) my chain is due for a sharpening even though it is still throwing good sized chips. I took my saw into a Dolmar dealer and had them i.d. what kind of chain was on it and bought a new chain for a couple of reasons: 1. I didn't have a spare, 2.) I plan on using the new chain to guide me when I try to sharpen my existing chain.

Shari

 

[1harlowr]

If you are going to file sharpen, might be best to start out with the FNJ. But if you don't know for sure how to use the FNJ, your chain won't cut any better than any other way that was done improperly.

Guess the best advice is become good at sharpening one way or another. Don't worry whether you free hand, use the FNJ, or a grinder. Any of these will get a chain sharp and any will mess a chain up. A chain that was sharpened one method well, is better than one sharpened another method poorly. Just my opinion though

 

[Coldfront]

I could never hand sharpen worth a damn, but after I got the pferd file from the husky dealer, I won't bother buying a electric grinder now. It might take a little longer to file than a grinder but it sharpens as good or better if you do it right which isn't hard to figure out with the Pferd.

 

[msvold]

Pferd video

I had to look up the Pferd file and method. Think this video explains it all. I will likely be spending the $25 to get one soon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2v4j1FxGRI

 

[giXXer]

After all of this talk about the Pferd cs-x I had to call up Bailey's and order one for myself. I have been hand filing for about 2 years now with pretty good results. Started a little slow, then I got a little more into it and now I kind of challenge myself to see how sharp I can get the chain. I use Oregon or Stihl round files in the Stihl file holder with the flat file guide which helps keep the file from cutting too low. This has worked very well for me as long as I don't let the chain get too dull. If the cutters are severely damaged the hand file usually won't take enough material off to get the chain back into shape.

One thing that I have been doing lately after my 395 with the 28" bar and chain would not cut straight is to check each cutter's length with a caliper. I have always wondered if I remove the same amount of material filing in each direction. Come to find out after 40-50 "touch-ups" my "weak side" cutters were a little longer which I believe was contributing to the crooked cuts (that and the chain was dull and I was forcing it through the wood). I have found that 3-5 strokes on my "strong" side and 5-7 on my weak side is appropriate. Does anyone else gauge their cutters? Or is my OCD getting the best of me?

A resource that has been pretty helpful, which I don't seem to have the link for, is on Carlton's website. They have a somewhat long-winded, but very informative instruction page on how a chain really cuts wood which was helpful to me in understanding how the raker actually works. I have always known that it sets the depth on how far the cutter can enter the kerf, but I never knew how far the links actually rock back allowing the chain to completely leave the bar and travel into the wood, then return back to the bar. Now I use the $3.00 raker gauge to keep all of the depth gauges the appropriate height as the cutters get shorter and "lower."

 

[sawkiller]

I usually start with the saw motor to my right and file all the way around that side of the chain. Then I reverse it and put the motor under my left arm and go to it. This virtually eliminates the weak side strong side problem.

And yes I too gauge my cutter length and I have found that if I keep the within .010 of each other I am fine.

 

[Nosmo]

No Stump Vise

I keep a pair of C-clamps in the truck with my files and other necessary items when I am out cutting. I stand up behind the tailgate and sharpen the chain with a C-clamp on each side of the bar. There is no rocking back and forth and the saw remains steady.

Another trick I use is keeping a pair of 1 x 2 blocks of wood which I clamp on each side of the bar when sharpening. I have 30 degree marks drawn across the boards which act as a guide . I use a Stihl or Oregon file holder to sharpen the chain and for me hand sharpening is a breeze.

Nosmo

 

[hermit]

I have a 2X12 that will just fit inside the bed of my old dodge wood truck and I have a 4" vice bolted in the center of it, lay flat clamp chainsaw bar and file away, then stand on edge for a tailgate. I use an Oregon clamp on file-n-gauge ,same angle ever time. But I have used a file free hand, back in the early 60's when I started.

 

[logbutcher]

Once you've tried the PFERD system, you'll sleep with the little baby ( or........). Just be sure to change files often before they show any wear.

Better than Flippy Caps, silicone implants, sliced bread, the 346NE, and the exalted MS361 that is said to cure the uglies found here .

 

[wvlogger]

I learned to file very quickley and love it. My filed chains will rip wood apart. And my files are mobile. I reckon this is a diffrent strokes for diffrent folks kind of deal.

 

[gemniii]

Through this entire thread I did not see one reference to the super secret chain sharpening forum.
LOT's of info there, especially on the NT grinder.

http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=74