Chain Tight At Two Places On Bar

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w8ye

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I bought a almost new looking Husky 350 that was supposed to have a 16" and 20" bars and chains in a case. The saw was made 2007 - 22nd wk with no scratches or anything.

When I got there, a 16" John Deer bar was on the saw and the 20" bar was nowhere to be seen. It had 20" and 16" Carlton .325 Chisel "L" chains in the case. There was no chain on the 16" bar. The guy said he only used Stihl and his wife had bought him this POS saw for Christmas three years ago and he wanted to get rid of it for he and his wife were now divorced.

I smelled a rat! But the price was pretty good at $120. Saw started right up and ran well and oiled well. So I got the saw/case and headed home

At home the 16" Like new chain wouldn't fit in the bar in a couple places. I was thinking .058" drive links in a .050" bar? Then I noticed that clutch brake band was worn off and just the very connecting ends remained. The clutch drum looked fine and all the brake mechanism seemed to work as it was supposed to. I also noticed the tips of the spur sprocket had some marks where, apparently, the chain had come off the bar. So I ordered a clutch brake band and 20" bar.

The next day, I looked at the chain closely, and there were burrs on some of the drive links in two areas, - apparently where the chain had come off a couple times? I took a riffle file and dressed the burrs off the drive links and all of the chain would fit the rails all around. So I installed the chain on the bar.

Then while tensioning the chain, I noticed two positions where the chain was much tighter. After running the chain around the bar some more to try to find the bad place, I saw a drive link of the chain climb the tip sprocket and get tight. It was doing the same thing when this part of the chain came across the drive sprocket. Looking at the chain real close, I saw the bad place was where the chain was connected together at the chainsaw dealer for that link was different. I got my tape measure and sure enough, the connecting link was a 3/8 LP chain link. ????

I checked the 20" chain and it was not this way.

So after the holiday, I'll have to take the 16" chain loop to the nearest chainsaws dealer and get a .325 connecting link installed in the joint.

Seems like the Husky 350 will make a nice limb saw.
 
Then while tensioning the chain, I noticed two positions where the chain was much tighter. After running the chain around the bar some more to try to find the bad place, I saw a drive link of the chain climb the tip sprocket and get tight. It was doing the same Looking at the chain real close, I saw the bad place was where the chain was connected together at the chainsaw dealer for that link was different. I got my tape measure and sure enough, the connecting link was a 3/8 LP chain link. ????

I checked the 20" chain and it was not this way.

So after the holiday, I'll have to take the 16" chain loop to the nearest chainsaws dealer and get a .325 connecting link installed in the joint.

Seems like the Husky 350 will make a nice limb saw.

Cool Beans...mang!!!!
There was another thread on here within the last week or so...
same problem eventually solved...wrong connecting link
added by whoever make the loop up from the roll...

Congrats on great detective work!!!!...and gonna a get simple fix..
Rep sent!!
:cheers:
J2F
 

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