Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil Poll

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Favorite Chainsaw 2 Cycle Oil

  • Echo Gold

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Echo Red Armor

    Votes: 27 35.5%
  • Husqvarna XP+

    Votes: 5 6.6%
  • Husqvarna HP

    Votes: 1 1.3%
  • Amsoil Dominator

    Votes: 10 13.2%
  • Amsoil Saber

    Votes: 15 19.7%
  • VP

    Votes: 3 3.9%
  • Stihl HP Ultra (Silver)

    Votes: 12 15.8%
  • Stihl High Performance (Orange)

    Votes: 1 1.3%
  • Lucas

    Votes: 2 2.6%

  • Total voters
    76
  • Poll closed .
What's reasonable? Even my vw tdi book says 6k miles on Dino oil if it meets their 503? Whatever spec oil. Which that spec had long since been surpassed with newer oils.
Usually , when you get within severe service applications the intervals are halved . In automotive vs heavy equipment trucks. 7k becomes 3 k & my normal 10 k in my diesel becomes 6 k . P.S. I just checked my Wifey's service contract with her 2 new Hyundia Kona's running Shell Helix Ultra 0w-20. 8 kilo intervals or 5000 mi. Since they are fleet vehicles with 10,000 seasonal milage , oil testing is lease compliant. I have checked the dip sticks prior to every oil change & it never moves & is barely dirty , prior to the dealer servicing . So times are changing even with the low viscosity sewing machine oil technology today . I retract my capillary action oil loss theory , apparently sealibility has improved since my tenure in Heavy Equipment lol.
 
Ok, that makes sense then, I have this extra long filter in my 12 valve and it will hold right under 13qt with the filter full. Can't say it uses more then a quart or so between changes. Usually more dripping out the crank case breather then actual consumption I'd guess. Twins breath heavy....
Yep , pan drips & breather blow by pretty well sums it up . Back in the day 1 qt. every few thousand miles was normal . So , not complaining with just over 300, 000 miles on the odometer on a hot running diesel engine lol.
 
I find that questionable also , no internal combustion engine does not consume oil . Oil migrates "capilliary action " within definition itself , demonstrates this fact . Every engine has leak paths which constitutes to an oil loss scenerio to air or ground , sorry but engines are not oil tight brother !
Mine doesn't smoke or leak it just magically disappears :laugh:. Engine in my truck with 353,000 is a 4.3 vortec has a 4.5 qt capacity with filter
 
Should be more the 12 quarts with 2 filters. Even just the longer fleetguard filter I run on my 12 valve pushs the oil fill to nearly 13 quarts.
IIRC my 01 24v had an oil capacity of 11 quarts with a Fleet guard filter, but it's been years so I could be wrong.
Actually , the 360 /5.9 litre gas engine takes 5 us quarts with filter . The Cummins 5.9 of mine takes 12 quarts without my 2 bypass filter cartridges & auxiliary oil cooler package . P.S. I believe there was a Magnum 360 series offered that had a larger sump pan that took 6 or 7 quart with filter .
 
The only engines I have had that burned oil was my wife's GMC Acadia. I believe it had a 3.4L motor. That engine also catastrophically failed with under 150k on the clock. The other was a Dodge 360 of 1997 vintage.
Never seen a 360 that didn't use oil. My dads impala with the 3.6 has a problem of keeping oil inside the engine i had to replace the gasket behind the oil filter housing twice.
 
sump capacity has basically zero to do with cooling,

Eh. You might not think so, but that is a mistaken notion. There is a very specific reason why the oil pans are built into the bottom of the truck like they are, and it isn't only because the oil runs downhill after circulating through the engine. granted, the oil cooler mechanisms are very important, but they are considered supplemental cooling to whatever cooling is done by the oil pan.

I bought a new Great Dane mower once, and immediately made an observation that the hydraulic oil would overheat. It was literally a 2 inch square tube arranged vertically, with only a 1 quart reserve capacity for the entire machine. I asked where the oil cooler was, and they said that that tiny tank sufficient. The "seller" was sadly mistaken, and had successfully dumped a overheating lemon on me.

I have dealt with many other hydraulic devices. Almost all of them rely on the sump volume and shape to acquire sufficient cooling for the circulating oil. For example: show me a picture of a log splitter that has an oil cooler on it.

I'm sure a log splitter oil cooler may exist somewhere, but I hope you'll acknowledge that the sump volume and shape are important cooling factors that any engineer would consider as part of the cooling system for the oil.
 
Mine doesn't smoke or leak it just magically disappears :laugh:. Engine in my truck with 353,000 is a 4.3 vortec has a 4.5 qt capacity with filter
That particular engine had leaky valve guide issues for a period of time causing them to burn oil.
My first vehicle was a chevy ASTRO Van with a 4.3L.
They also were pretty reliable. My dad had one in a Chevy Work Truck that had 500K on the clock before it died.
 
Never seen a 360 that didn't use oil. My dads impala with the 3.6 has a problem of keeping oil inside the engine i had to replace the gasket behind the oil filter housing twice.
Mine did since new.
Caddy Northstars, Saturn's and Olds Aurora motors where notorious for using oil in copious amounts.
 
Not really. Compare the sump on a 5.9 cummins vs a Dodge 360. Both the same size displacement, but the cummins has a nearly 3 gallon sump while the 360 is 5-6 quarts going off memory.
The oil filter on the Cummins is also 3 times the size of the one on the 360.

An excellent point. As we can both agree, it's an engineering solution, and not quite so simple as saying the oil doesn't last as long in one machine vs a differently engineered vehicle.
 
I have been using Amsoil in every gas engine I own for over 20 years, both 2 & 4 cycle. I have not had 1 iota of problems with any of them. To each their own. Amsoil will continue being used in all my engines.
Jim Jones convinced people to drink poison laced Koolaide. Marketing can be a powerful thing.
 
all the skidders & tree farming equipment I serviced back in the day had internal surge baffles & added volume capacity sumps for the extreme service & uneven ground they performed within

Although I never worked on one, I was told that Case backhoes many years back had two oil pumps: one on the front of the engine, and one on the rear. Just to make sure it got oil, regardless of the slope it was running on.
 
That particular engine had leaky valve guide issues for a period of time causing them to burn oil.
My first vehicle was a chevy ASTRO Van with a 4.3L.
They also were pretty reliable. My dad had one in a Chevy Work Truck that had 500K on the clock before it died.
Mine is a 96 the only major work done to it was intake gaskets and i replaced the distributor. The people i got it from used Schaeffer fluids since new.
It runs the best and has excellent oil pressure 60 psi cold and 50 hot.
 
I'm not jumping into the middle of you guy's spat, but I think it is worthy of consideration that most semi-trucks come with a 25,000 mile oil change interval. That isn't much difference than the comments that started this hostile conversation.

https://extramiletx.com/how-often-should-you-change-your-semi-truck-oil/
Now I'm not sure why smaller vehicles have so much shorter an oil change interval, but I suspect it has to do with engine RPM and warranty periods, as well as perhaps oil volume and filtration quality.
They also have 10 or 12 gallons of oil and several filters
 
I do like Amsoil Dominator, and to a lesser extent, terminator....errr.. interceptor in dirt bikes. About 17 years or so ago I spent a lot of time and some money getting my kids' dirt bikes set up and tuned as perfectly as I could (my bikes suffered a bit as a result, haha).

I used elf, yamalube, honda HP1?, Amsoil dominator and interceptor, motul 7 and 800, and a couple of others. I was trying to get as much fuel (and oil) thru them as possible while still burning cleanly. After a couple of months of making changes, I settled on dominator. It was the only oil (aside from the elf, which I preferred, but it was hard to find in my area) that I could jet down to around 32:1 without spooging. I like the silencer tip mid, maybe light brown and almost dry. Just a bit darker than a good plug.

A couple of those bikes are still with my one son. He finally just rebuilt the full motor of his very well used 200xc. Probably 3-350 hours on that one bottom end alone. We both felt the rod and such, and looked at the whole works that we could see with a good magnifying glass. It still felt good, there could have been a tiny bit of thrust washer wear is all, almost inconceivable at that point, we thought. Everything still rolled around as smooth as glass. The powervalve had never gunked, etc, etc. We had been checking thru many top end changes all along, of course. There was always residual oil, a nice piston wash, and overall good signs of adequate lubrication with a nice burn. Anyway, that motor had huge hours on it with lots of mx racing and offroad racing and general riding at a high-mid pack to sometimes very fast local expert level. The motor was still tight. He did the full motor anyway. My son got that bike as a young teenager and rode and raced it until he was a young man. From 140lbs to 195lbs. With tons and tons of deep sand riding on one of his practice tracks right here on the farm.

Now it is his wife's, all mechanically rebuilt nearly as new again.

The CR125 (ahem, 144) he still races from time to time has never been split, all the same products tested early on and maintenance done the same way thru the years. Tho not as many hours on it with a far tighter maintenance schedule.
There's a couple of other runners laying around of similar vintage with low hours (100-200) that have never been split either.

I ran lots of amsoil thru saws over the years too. Lately it's been lucas in the saws. Almost out of that. Good. Never again. It stinks badly for sawing and it doesn't perform as well as I'd like. It seems to form some carbon, for one thing. I bought it on a whim and didn't do any research. It's not a great oil, methinks.

I thought the dominator, and perhaps to a lesser extent the interceptor performed well over the years. It's also a testament to the durability of these particular bikes, which were chosen carefully for just that. As all my sons' racing buddies' 4 strokes broke down and had to be rebuilt, or were sold before they broke, the 2 strokes just kept on going like energizer bunnies.

I don't mind Amsoil Dominator at all.
 
The 617 in my username has the same recommended OCI whether running dino or synthetic oil, precisely because of the soot loading. That's even though the factory filter has a built in deep filtration bypass filter element that's ~2x the size of the full flow section of the filter. Old school mechanical IDI diesel is a sooty mess, hard on oil.

The first generation EGR engines where probably worse as it pertains to oil soot loading. With more advanced exhaust after treatment EGR volume is now much less on new diesels.
That's a fact. We ran 40,000 K oic on all our trucks with common rail Cummins and Detroit's yet all the trucks with Series 60's we did at 20,000 since they're kind of a dirty pig of an engine.
 
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