Chainsaw bar modifications?

[agrams]

Ok, I've done several searches, but cannot seem to find any pictures of what I am looking for. There are two things I hope some pictures can help clarify for me:

-Drilling a hole for aux oil dripper in the bar (Im 90% sure I understand this, but pictures always help if someone has some to share/link)
-Drilling a hole for mounting the mill vs the clamp method. Any pictures? Is this specific to certain types of mills that mount this way? (I have a granberg MKIII)

Thanks in advance.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
Here's the oiler instructions. When it comes to drilling bars, use as slow a rpm as you have.
Regards
Gregg

 

[agrams]

Thanks for the info Grande.

Does anyone have a picture/how-to on drilling out the sprocket center for mounting the mill?

 

[mdavlee]

Thanks for the info Grande.

Does anyone have a picture/how-to on drilling out the sprocket center for mounting the mill?

Center punch it and then get a good bit and coolant for the bit and drill it. If you know a machine shop they can do it easier more than likely.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
Are you talking about putting a helper handle on a sprocket nose bar?
Regards
Gregg

 

[agrams]

not a helper handle, but I've read about people drilling out the center in the sprocket, putting a bolt/nut through and then using the clamp to mount the mill (to get a few more inches from the bar length).

 

[Greenland South]

This is a pic from last summer. I drilled a hole through the middle of the bearings in the bar end to ad a threaded rod. Stiffened the bar up significantly. I used a 1/4" cobalt bit with some cutting fluid. Took less than 7 seconds. It's not witchcraft.

 

[Fallguy1960]

Check out the sticky at the top of the page. Bob L. has all of information on what you are asking. Saw bars are very hard so the slower you turn the bit the better 100 rpm or less slower. Keep the bit flooded with lube. The aux oiler works just as well if you drip where chain rides on the bar just after it comes around the nose sprocket. I am sure Bob will chime in soon. I am just a beginner at this stuff.

 

[BobL]

Yep - it's not worth the effort of drilling the bar for an aux oiler. I've used both and now all 3 of my alaskan style mills just use the drip method.

I don't think there are any "off the shelf" Alaskan mills that required a hole through a bar so if this is what you want to do then you will have to modify the mill as well.

Drilling the hole through the bar nose can be tough as the material used for the internal nose bearing is extremely hard. You really do need to uses drill press. A sharp or new TC tipped (as in a masonry) bit works - slow drill speed, high pressure and lots of lube.
Don't let it just "rub" for too long or it will work harden and you may never get it through,
Press too hard and the TC bit may disintegrate but just use another bit as they are fairly cheap.