Chainsaw Boots

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Meight

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Not sure if this is the correct Forum but figured it was the closest.

I recently purchased a pair of Haix Airpower R200s http://www.haix.com/us/products/forest/haix-airpower-r200? which are not certified for any cut level protection but are "built" according to EN 381 Class 1 (20 m/s).

I originally purchased a pair of Haix Protector Extremes which are certified for cut level protection 2 but they were basically like wearing a pair of ski boots. I've heard that they will break in but I didn't want to risk having to wear an expensive pair of uncomfortable ski boots while cutting.

My question is according to the the numbers I've come up even if I found a pair of chainsaw boots with cut level protection of 3 (28 m/s) they still wouldn't be able to provide the correct level of protection, is this true?

My numbers are the following:

- Chain Pitch * 2
3/8" * 2 = .75"

- Previous number * Number of teeth on sprocket
.75" * 7 = 5.25" per RPM

- Previous number * RPMs
5.25" * 14,000 = 73,500" per minute

- Previous number / 60
73,500" / 60 = 1,225" per second or 28.575 meters per second

As always I appreciate everyone's thoughts.
 
I used to buy expensive chainsaw protective boots for climbing but they really were just a pain in the butt. Now I just get comfortable steel toe with good soles and deep heels. So much cheaper, easier to climb with and more comfortable
 
After watching a saw make short work of kevlar etc etc, steel toe will be my next purchase.
Don't want to hijack your thread Meight, but I will also be looking for be looking for a comfortable pair of boots with max saw and axe protection,
plus with gore-tex or similar for winter cold.
I had a pair of Timberlands fall apart on me prematurely so they are off the list.
Wish my Caterpillars had steep toes. (Maybe I should get those metal frankentoes just for sawing?)
 
After watching a saw make short work of kevlar etc etc, steel toe will be my next purchase.
Don't want to hijack your thread Meight, but I will also be looking for be looking for a comfortable pair of boots with max saw and axe protection,
plus with gore-tex or similar for winter cold.
I had a pair of Timberlands fall apart on me prematurely so they are off the list.
Wish my Caterpillars had steep toes. (Maybe I should get those metal frankentoes just for sawing?)[/q]
Haix boots that have the proper level of protection have steel toes and kevlar elsewhere.
 
If I could find a pair of comfortable boots with kevlar/steel or carbonfiber/steel or whatever/steel for under $125- I would not care where they are made, I would not ask any questions.

The closest thing I could come up with is a pair of Wolverine boots with steel toe an oddball leather/synthetic/reinforced upper.

I am overweight anyway and my feet and arches always killing me.

I do not want to pay $200 for boots.
 
What happens when the chain skips across the steel toe and goes right into your metatarsals?

Exactly.

Somewhere in the previous version of this site were pics of where I took a ported 346 running full tilt to the toe. It glanced off the steel cap and into the leather. Fortunately, there were 7 layers of Kevlar under the leather. The chain went through 4 layers before it bogged. Steel toes are better than nothing, but don't count on them saving your foot. Matterhorn's are not cheap, ~$275, but that's a lot less than a deductible from the ER.

I will try to find the pics and repost them.
 
I can't speak for other brand because I've only ever used one chainsaw boot and they are the orange Husqvarna chainsaw boots. Yes they are heavy, kind of stiff and very warm. They are an ideal boot for me in winter whether I'm bucking logs on the landing or trudging through snow and/or mud out in the woods. And I do wear them in summer too. The stiffness on the boot has saved me from rolling ankles more than once. I only see a few problems with them, put them on cold and your feet will never get warm, dont move around enough and your feet will get cold but usually will warm up once you get active enough, I get calf cramps taking them off. Price is under $200 also.
 
Even if the chain speed slightly exceeds the rating of your boot it will still help you from cutting your foot off. I'd suggest it would be very rare to hit your foot with a chain spinning at full noise.
Personally I wear some Class 3 boots imported from England and they are awesome and very comfortable. Can't recall the brand at the moment but cost me around $230. They are a quality item and offer protection right up your shins unlike normal steel caps.
 
I really like my pair of Haix Airpower R200s. I've been wearing steel toe boots for the past 10 years or so and I've hated every pair except the Airpowers.

Its really hard to find steel toe boots with cut protection in the States.

I understand that good boots with cut protection are expensive but the amount of money one could loose by accidentally cutting their foot is astronomical compared to the purchase price of the boots.
 
I really like my pair of Haix Airpower R200s. I've been wearing steel toe boots for the past 10 years or so and I've hated every pair except the Airpowers.

Its really hard to find steel toe boots with cut protection in the States.

I understand that good boots with cut protection are expensive but the amount of money one could loose by accidentally cutting their foot is astronomical compared to the purchase price of the boots.

I guess it depends what you are looking or in a boot. About 90% of the crews/outfit I've ever worked with have all had Husqvarna boots and they are steel toe and have shin protection. I suppose if you lookin for something more minimalist then it would probably be harder to find. I guess I've always felt like they were a necessary tool of the trade.
 
After watching a saw make short work of kevlar etc etc, steel toe will be my next purchase.
Don't want to hijack your thread Meight, but I will also be looking for be looking for a comfortable pair of boots with max saw and axe protection,
plus with gore-tex or similar for winter cold.
I'm more scared of a axe swing hitting me than a saw across the foot. I don't know if any of the boots will stop a sharp fiskars or similar to the foot if it missed the steel toe.

Metatarsals and that, too. I think there was a photo posted a while back, here or somewhere else, of how an axe cut through the boot into the outside of someone's foot.I've experienced firsthand that deflected strike that fortunately struck ground, but both wide of the mark and undershot the chopping block ... just darned glad I had my stance set well wide enough that day.
 
I got a cheap pair of walmart interceptor's with the steel toe. They are very comfortable and from personal experience will hold up to a chainsaw going into the toe and sole. I now have metal plate showing but they did take a Mac 10-10 at full rev that kicked back out of a cut. Expensive doesn't always mean better. I've had Timberland's fail Rocky's and a few other brands.
 
I got a cheap pair of walmart interceptor's with the steel toe. They are very comfortable and from personal experience will hold up to a chainsaw going into the toe and sole. I now have metal plate showing but they did take a Mac 10-10 at full rev that kicked back out of a cut. Expensive doesn't always mean better. I've had Timberland's fail Rocky's and a few other brands.

Of course a steel toe will protect your toes - a $10 Chinese pair of steel caps will protect your toes from a chainsaw. That is not really a fair comparison to dedicated chainsaw boots that not only have a steel toe but also offer protection across the whole boot. Remember that when ratings are given to boots involving Class I, Class II, Class III etc they have undergone proper testing across the whole boot, not just the toe. A simple steel toed safety boot probably has a Class 0.0002 rating compared to dedicated chainsaw boots. Better than wearing a pair of sandles I suppose :)
 
Of course a steel toe will protect your toes - a $10 Chinese pair of steel caps will protect your toes from a chainsaw. That is not really a fair comparison to dedicated chainsaw boots that not only have a steel toe but also offer protection across the whole boot. Remember that when ratings are given to boots involving Class I, Class II, Class III etc they have undergone proper testing across the whole boot, not just the toe. A simple steel toed safety boot probably has a Class 0.0002 rating compared to dedicated chainsaw boots. Better than wearing a pair of sandles I suppose :)

I prefer wearing my safety crocks while running chainsaw.
 
I use Haix Trekker Mountain for years, and all my colleagues. I've never seen anyone cut through. But they are warm and waterproof, it is also important.

In addition they are not too expensive.

For cons, I think they are a little too soft in rough terrain, so I also use Alico shoes, very rigid
 
The last pair of chainsaw boots I bought were Jalatte class 1 arborist boots, beautiful and well made but also big, bulky, unwieldy, inflexible and hellishly expensive. Steel toe boots are much easier to get around the tree and on the ground for me
 

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