No baffle in this muffler mate, I think it’s the deflector plate that has rusted away and even though I peened it in place well, I presume
It’s got movement somewhere.
Chainsaw knocking sound
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It’s got movement somewhere.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
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Was there a buildup of carbon in the combustion chamber?
yay another tear it down and not replace whats broken thread
I wouldn't bother either if t's just a wall hanger.
Very little - I was really surprised!
Having not found the cause of the noise, peace of mind was worth the time taken to check internals.
For the occasional bit of bucking here and there it will be fine. If I had any intention to put hours on it / rely on it, I would have approached it differently.
It would be nice, but not necessary with what I intend to do / not do with the saw. I don’t believe the wear is causing me the issues we can hear. Though it probably is the cause of the spit back.
Mad, just wanted to thank you for the recommendation - I have now got one on order. Had a chat with @trains re what is a decent one here in Oz that won’t break the bank and he found this.
Will be here in a couple weeks and will update when they arrive. Lots of excellent reviews
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/stethoscope-kit
The quick check for bad crank bearings is to grab the crank ends one at a time and try to move them up and down. If you feel even the faintest click they're bad. It doesn't take much play to make the clanging at idle sound.
You need to remove the clutch on that side but usually you can just grab the ignition rotor after only removing the cover.
You need to remove the clutch on that side but usually you can just grab the ignition rotor after only removing the cover.
Thank Eric that’s exactly what I do to check them
they were sound.
I think the intake skirt is worn causing the rattle, even if you don’t want to believe it. Lol. Or the plating is worn. That’s a piston slap type of rattle.
Also, swapping rings isn’t going to work. You’re thinking you’ll gain compression by doing so, but when the half-worn ring seats into all the nooks and crannies that the other ring created/ had already seated into, the gap will be bigger than the previous ring. It would work fine if the ring pins were stacked one directly above the other
Also, swapping rings isn’t going to work. You’re thinking you’ll gain compression by doing so, but when the half-worn ring seats into all the nooks and crannies that the other ring created/ had already seated into, the gap will be bigger than the previous ring. It would work fine if the ring pins were stacked one directly above the other
But like you said, if you’re only gonna run a couple tanks per year on it, it’s probably fine the way it is
Hey mate, I’m fairly sure it’s not engine related because without the muffler there is none of that sound. Also, was advised if it was pistol slap it would be felt as vibration but there isn’t any at all hmm
compression is good -
Tried to just re-ring a 372 a few years back and using a fairly worn piston, ended up with that noise - pulled the top end off and put a new Meteor in it which I should have done to begin with, friend brought over his newly acquired 394 the other day, told him he had better pull the top end and all checked out except a badly that worn piston, - someone tried re-ringing a worn piston but for as little as it takes to check out we know the bottom end is good and piece of mind, we can beat around the bush all we like but I don't like guess work and it's usually the thing we don't want to do and saves time in the long run. IMO and this is directed at you Tom it's just in general what I have learned from my own mistakes.
Hi Gord, thanks for the message! I took the top end off and checked it all out. There is wear in the piston but bottom end is all good. Without the muffler I don’t get that same noise so that’s what has led me to believe it’s muffler related. However maybe I’m wrong and it’s not exhaust. Have a listen without the muffler on and let me know your thoughts as to if you can still hear anything.
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