MiteyF
ArboristSite Lurker
Before anyone says it, I know... everyone seems to hate these saws. I got this little guy in a group of other old saws, and have about $15 invested in it, and when it's running nice, it's a great little saw. Maybe it will end up in the scrap pile eventually, but I'd like to avoid it. When she's running right, she's a real sweetheart, and I'd like to keep it around when I don't want/need my big heavy 10-10, or to keep at my parents house when they need a little tree work done.
When I got this saw I cleaned it up really well, rebuilt the carb, new fuel line, and right off the bat it ran great. However after doing some cutting and warming up (10-15 minutes) it would eventually sputter out and IF I could get it restarted, it would only run near full throttle. No amount of carb playing would cure it, so I figured it must be a failing coil, maybe condenser (old points saw). I also considered vapor lock, but spark seemed weak when I checked after the engine got hot. Not wanting to dump more $ into it than I need to, I figured I'd check the points and all connections first. Once I got into the points, they were super clean already, and I gapped/timed it to exactly factory specs. Coil gap is spot on. Coil resistance to the plug lead is around 7k I believe. New plug, properly gapped. Getting nice hot blue spark.
However, now once I fire it up, she won't rev, acting like spark is cutting out. Again, carb settings don't really seem to make any difference. Before I go trying to swap parts from my other MM (later, points-less style) I'd like to try to play with the timing once or twice more to see if I can improve it and narrow down the issue. Silly me, I didn't check where the timing was before I dug in, but it's a bit tough to mess up with the marks on the flywheel/coil, so I didn't really bother.
Does this sound like it's too advanced or retarded? Obviously it's a bit of a pain to get in and play with, so I'd like to get a good guess on which way to go before digging back in.
When I got this saw I cleaned it up really well, rebuilt the carb, new fuel line, and right off the bat it ran great. However after doing some cutting and warming up (10-15 minutes) it would eventually sputter out and IF I could get it restarted, it would only run near full throttle. No amount of carb playing would cure it, so I figured it must be a failing coil, maybe condenser (old points saw). I also considered vapor lock, but spark seemed weak when I checked after the engine got hot. Not wanting to dump more $ into it than I need to, I figured I'd check the points and all connections first. Once I got into the points, they were super clean already, and I gapped/timed it to exactly factory specs. Coil gap is spot on. Coil resistance to the plug lead is around 7k I believe. New plug, properly gapped. Getting nice hot blue spark.
However, now once I fire it up, she won't rev, acting like spark is cutting out. Again, carb settings don't really seem to make any difference. Before I go trying to swap parts from my other MM (later, points-less style) I'd like to try to play with the timing once or twice more to see if I can improve it and narrow down the issue. Silly me, I didn't check where the timing was before I dug in, but it's a bit tough to mess up with the marks on the flywheel/coil, so I didn't really bother.
Does this sound like it's too advanced or retarded? Obviously it's a bit of a pain to get in and play with, so I'd like to get a good guess on which way to go before digging back in.