Chainsaw Mill

[nifacmouse]

Hi,

After reading the posts from this site, I decided to sign up. I'm getting ready to build a post and beam sauna out of 8"x8" timbers I plan to mill. I have a jonsered 2165 powerhead (I know, but the trees up here are soft white spruce that are a maximum of 20" diameter) and I have a few questions for anybody who knows more about this stuff then me.

1.) Recommended bar length (does a shorter bar give a faster chain speed or does a longer bar allow more teeth to rip)? What gives a straighter cut?

2.) Recommended model of Bar? Oregon is sold here.

3.) If 90% of what I'm cutting is 8"x8" cants, is the Beam Machine sufficient? Or should I spend a few bucks more and get a Granberg Mini-Mill or an Accutech Micro-Mill.

4.) With a broader powerband, is the 2165 a better milling saw than the 2171 (I'm just trying to make myself feel better for not getting the bigger saw!)

Thanks to anybody that can help.

 

[rb_in_va]

As I recall, the max width I could get out my 28" bar on the Alaskan was about 20". And even then I might have had to take the dogs off. I would go with something larger than the mini-mill. You will inevitably want to mill something larger than what the mini will handle.

 

[wdchuck]

It's easier to sell a larger mill when you're done with it, as well.

 

[stonykill]

Hi,

After reading the posts from this site, I decided to sign up. I'm getting ready to build a post and beam sauna out of 8"x8" timbers I plan to mill. I have a jonsered 2165 powerhead (I know, but the trees up here are soft white spruce that are a maximum of 20" diameter) and I have a few questions for anybody who knows more about this stuff then me.

1.) Recommended bar length (does a shorter bar give a faster chain speed or does a longer bar allow more teeth to rip)? What gives a straighter cut?

2.) Recommended model of Bar? Oregon is sold here.

3.) If 90% of what I'm cutting is 8"x8" cants, is the Beam Machine sufficient? Or should I spend a few bucks more and get a Granberg Mini-Mill or an Accutech Micro-Mill.

4.) With a broader powerband, is the 2165 a better milling saw than the 2171 (I'm just trying to make myself feel better for not getting the bigger saw!)

Thanks to anybody that can help.

I mill a lot of pine and birch, both rarely larger than 20 inches in diameter. Most of the time I mill with my 031 (48cc's). I know, its not supposed to work, but it works great. I run a 24 inch bar and baileys lp chain. It works better in the birch than the pine! So my point is a properly set up small saw will work just fine, and I can mill for 6 hours with it and still have the use of my arms. I mill with my 80 cc mcculloch all day, and I'm fryed.

I use oregon bars, stihl bars, mcculloch bars, all have worked fine for me.

If it were me I wouldn't get the mini mill. With my 24 inch csm, with the 24 inch bar, and some careful slabbing and rolling of the log, I mill 20 inch trees. Remember once you slab 3 sides, you have substantially reduced the diameter.

I am a believer in using the shortest bar for the job whether cutting firewood or milling for 2 reasons. 1st is safety, the extra unused chain is just asking to get caught up in something, 2nd the less resistance on the saw, the more available power the saw will have. You might not notice it on a 90
cc saw, but you will when you nearly cut the cc's in 1/2.

 

[poleframer]

Love a SAUNA! What are your plans for heating, etc? Mine is 7' square,buildt on a slope with a woostove set low in the foundation, feeds from the outside. Wish I could say I milled it, but I did scavange the materials- 2x6 T&G cedar.

 

[nifacmouse]

I'm a traditionalist, so I'll be using wood to heat the sauna. For a base plan, I'm using the post and beam design out of 'Rob Roy's book The Sauna. I'm not going to use the cordwood component or concrete foundation as shown in the book. Why pay for mortor when I can cut trees for free!