Chainsaw not going - PLEASE help

[BDA]

I have a chainsaw that I have bought 2nd hand and not going. I have pulled it apart and cleaned it and found it had a split fuel hose going to the carb/pump diaphragm. I fixed this when reassembling it. I have checked compression and it seems to be making a ton of compression (but someone else said they didnt think it was that much for a 95cc) it has a good blue spark. and I have tried EZ start down the carb to see if it would even fire but it doesnt. I have tried maybe 500 pulls on it but still i cannot get it going. It appears like compression is coming back out the carburettor but I could be mistaken. It is a piston ported model so it has no reed valves that could be damaged. I am really stuck and at a dead end. Someone-Anyone have any good ideas??

 

[lostone]

Have you pulled the muffler and checked to see if the screen is clogged up? that is if it has one. Does the jug, piston and ring or rings look good from checking from the exhaust side?

 

[BDA]

nope I havnt checked that yet, will do tonight. I have 2/3rds of fark all small engine experience so this is a learning curve for me. While I'm in the muffler what dod i do to make mods to it.

has anyone ever had a chainsaw that they simply CANNOT get going at all and had to throw it out.

 

[lostone]

Could you give some more info on the saw, make and model will help also.

 

[BDA]

Canadien 270

(this is stolen straight from Mike Acres site, hope he doesnt mind)

MANUFACTURED BY: PM (Power Machinery Ltd.)
VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1961
YEAR DISCONTINUED:
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 5.8 cu. in. (95cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 2.3125 in. (58.7mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.375 in. (34.9mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with cast iron sleeve
INTAKE METHOD: Piston ported
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.:
WEIGHT : 20 lbs. (9.1kg) powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Sand cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Wico
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HL series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT:
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-1HL
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked screen
STARTER TYPE: Fairbanks Morse automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic with manual override
OPERATING RPM:
IGNITION TIMING: 35 degrees before TDC
BREAKER POINT SETTING: 0.020 in. (0.5mm)
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: fixed, not adjustable
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion J6J, Autolite A3X, AC M44C
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.6mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 2.5 Imp. Pts. (1420ml)
FUEL OIL RATIO: 16:1
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: SAE 30 or SAE 40
CHAIN PITCH: .404 in.
CHAIN TYPE: Oregon 51C
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 15 in. (38cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 36 in. (91.5cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: Cream body with Metallic Blue top cover (early series)
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:

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COMMENTS:

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1966 version with Red top cover and automatic oiling

 

[njforestfire]

get it running first THEN worry about modding it. Good point about the screen being clogged. I would also double check to see that your spark that you saw the first time wasn't a fluke. Have you replaced the fuel filter?

 

[BDA]

yeah I was keen on mods but your right, I aint starting no mod regime till its running at least.

Ive checked spark about 6 times cos the on switch has 3 positions and only one of them is on, I keep pulling the HT lead to make sure that I have the switch in the right position and each time its got a sure as hell spark that is regular as my heartbeat.....

ooooo aarrgggh my heart just stopped.. teehee

thanks Lostone and NJ.

 

[BDA]

Oh yeah the fuel filter is just a element in the end of the pickup inside the fuel tank. I pulled that out gave it a blowout with some spray solvent, dried it then put it back in.

 

[njforestfire]

did ya look at the muffler screen yet to see if it is clogged?

 

[njforestfire]

If screen isn't clogged, my guess would be something related to the fuel delivery being the problem.

 

[BDA]

Havnt looked at the muffler screen yet. Will do so tonite. thanks.

You would think if i sprayed EZ start down the inlet horn of the carb, and if it were a fuel system problem, then it would at least try to fire but it doesnt even do that.

keep them ideas coming, its all helping the thinking process for me.

 

[Lawn Masters]

If it has points, they may not be set right, so you could have bright blue spark, but no ignition because its not at the right time.

 

[BDA]

yeah I thought that may be a possiblity but I cannot get the flywheel off, I have no flywheel puller. I will take it to the local saw shop and see if I can use their puller or pay them to take it off.

First, check muffler screen, check rings, piston etc
Second, take to saw shop, remove flywheel and set points, or perhaps replace them.

 

[rupedoggy]

It is not a clogged muffler screen. The saw will try to run even if totally plugged. Most of the time it will even idle but won't pick up speed. It is not a clogged muffler screen. You guys aren't helping by suggesting that. Mike

 

[Lawn Masters]

since I think this is a canadian 270, I dont think it would even have a spark screen in it. probably its the points setting, or a sheared flywheel key.

 

[whatsnext]

Also, the flywheel itself may be out of time. Not sure how yours is held in place, likely a key of some sort, but it could be broke. It should at least chuff a bit on easy start.
John......

 

[gumneck]

I'll add my 1.5 cents.

I bought a used one to tinker with and had good spark, replaced fuel lines,put in a new piston/ring. Pulled many times with no luck. At the end, found out the flywheel was wrong for the saw.

I had same symptoms as yours based on your description. Starting fluid would not get her to pop. Mix right in the cylinder wouldn't. Tried a flywheel from similar saw and the saw fired the very first pull. The magnets from each flywheel were a little different when compared to position of keyway, thus incorrect timing. If I were you I would do a parts number check to be sure your flywheel is correct for your saw.

Good luck.
Tom

 

[wedge]

how about crank seals? those have been the culprit in 2 of my adventres in my experience(one of which im currently going through) the saw wont even draw through the intake port cause the crank seal is shot.

 

[BDA]

I thought about crank seals. I did not see any actual seal around the drive side of the crank when I had the clutch off. (is it meant to be a seal or an o-ring?) I am in the process of having an original manual being sent to me. (the guy can only send a couple of pages each day) So I will wait for that and see what if anything is missing.

Thanks guys. this is good stuff

 

[lostone]

It appears like compression is coming back out the carburettor but I could be mistaken. It is a piston ported model so it has no reed valves that could be damaged.

OK, I understand that this saw is older and probably didn't have a screen in it, but at the time that I posted, that wasn't information shared. If it is trying to bring compression back through the crankcase, what would cause that? other than the exhaust being partially blocked off? wouldn't it be easier for the compression to exit through the exhaust port? even if it was bad rings.