chainsaw powered band mill?

[woodshop]

As far as the size of the saw, you keep talkin' about the large (395) saw on the Alaskan. If you got to buy a large saw for the Alaskan anyway, I fell to see how you get it's cheaper. That would only be if you didn't have to have a big saw. Right?
Rodney

Correct... my point there was that you can't just compare mills, you have to look at the total package, and the Ripsaw does fine with a $4-500 powerhead, where the Logosol mills need a saw/bar closer to $1000. Add the mill and saw together, and THEN compare costs. Even then, no doubt about it, the Ripsaw is indeed about $400 more than Big Mill. Total Ripsaw mill and saw will set you back $2100 or more depending on what saw you power it with. Big Mill with 395XP and 36"bar, about $1750. I jumped on the Logosol site and watched the videos though, and I gotta say the 10ft Ripsaw/aluminum guide bar system seems like a lot less hassle than the 9ft Logosol guide when it comes to setting up and breaking down. The Ripsaw guide bars (10 ft) weighs about 22lbs, and will pop on and off log with just two pins hammered into end of log. No screwing and unscrewing jigs.

When you're slicing slabs off the sides of a log, which requires turning that log and repositioning that guide several times, that issue would be important for me.

So what do you get for the $400 more a Ripsaw setup costs you over the Big Mill? Well, a little faster milling in hardwood, slightly smoother boards (debatable, going by my experience with my csm), and an extra board for every 6 or so milled from your log since you are using a band and not a chain. That last one, is not debatable. :biggrinbounce2: Weight... didn't find that on their website, but Ripsaw and powerhead with 10ft of guide bar is about 75lbs. It looks like the Big Mill with a 395XP/36 in bar would be in same ballpark, depends on how much their 9 ft guide system weighs. Along those lines though, another Ripsaw advantage would be the ability to mill longer than a 9ft log. As long as you keep attaching those Ripsaw 5ft guide bars end to end, you can mill that length log. Cost of operation... bar/ripping chain vs bandmill blades... again going by my own personal experience with my csm, its about even in the end, but my Ripsaw powerhead uses far less fuel/oil than my big saw.

Again... having never used or seen one in action, really can't say. Going by the website and what I've been told though, the Ripsaw system, although a bit more expensive, looks to be a little easier to set up and use, and takes less of your log when you mill. As Rodney says though, different ways to get to the same end result. Rough lumber for the woodshop!!

Rodney if I missed anything, let us know. I DO tend to be a bit biased towards what I have and use as we all do. That's true in my woodshop with all those toys also.

 

[woodshop]

Just saw on the Logosol website that THEIR guide bars can also be attached and extended end to end to one another, thus allowing milling longer logs aslo, so I was incorrect when saying that the Ripsaw ability to do that would be an advantage. My goof

 

[TedChristiansen]

This is an interesting discussion and one that will be repeated countless times over the years. The main point is that each individual situation and set of objectives, requirements and constraints direct a person toward a particular solution.

In my case the TimberJig was the lowest cost investment: $165 for the jig, $800 for Husqvarna 385XP + 24" bar/chain + 36" bar/chain. I used this for about one year.

Pushing the saw through the wood the entire time and working on the ground is very tiring. So I decided to upgrade to the Woodworkers Mill (WWM). It is still portable, but not as much as the TimberJig. Being able to stand upright and turn the crank to move the saw is just awesome and plain easy. After 5 hours I am not tired at all. Over the last couple of months since getting it, I have found it to be portable enough to get to the logs, so the extra weight and size havent been an issue.

I now use both together. I use the TimberJig for quartering and splitting large (> 24" dia) logs, and then process those pieces on the WWM. This is good combination for me.

Regards,

Ted

 

[Rodney Sinclair]

Woodshop, I will agree that you are biased. Really biased. Now I don't know what you watched on Logosol's site, but it sure don't sound like anything I got. I said it had adjustable supports on each end. The key word being "adjustable." On top of that, each end has a scale. So I don't know how to answer your questions. The only thing I can think of is you must be watching something about what they call the Timber Gig. But it also has scales built on. Thats the way Ted does it. I think.
Rodney

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Curious, what is the "Delta saw" you refer to, is it a portable handheld mill like the Ripsaw?

The Delta saw was/is like a Ripsaw, just a little bigger/heavier and had a small 4 stroke motor on it...

Everybody I know that has a bandmill will always go back to a chain saw when the log is too big to fit through thier mill. Even you say you use the chainsaw to remove the bark and cut the log down to fit. And to save your band blades.

I got a chuckle out of that.... I "use to be" a CSMer myself and i'd be happy to point you to a hundred more of us that would NEVER go back to a CSM after owning a bandmill.... Don't call me a lier, just go to numerous sites on line, and ask the bandmillers "if" they moved up from a CSM, and "if" they would go back!! I'll bet you, you will get more than a hundred in short order that won't go back....

For that "once in a while" log that's bigger than 36", i just split it with my chainsaw free hand, and mill it on my bandmill, no problem at all... For the rest of the hundreds of logs, i roll them up on the deck and get after it... I can saw them FAST enough to easily pay the difference to own a bandmill... I can also saw FAST enough to easily pay for any added equipment i want too, that is, "if" i wanted to.. I saw 99% of the time for myself... I've turned down a lot of jobs in the past...

Today i sawed out enough (two logs) low grade oak to put a landing and steps to go from my house to my garage and the better grade went on stickers... It took all of one hour to saw it all out and then i got to enjoy the nice weather doing something else, like picking my apples...

No pi$$ing match here, there's a place for all kinds of mills....

Todays milling, one of the two logs i sawed.

This one is on the bunks now, and i'll "quarter saw" it when i get to it...

Happy milling with what ever you use...

Rob

 

[dustytools]

I think that the satisfaction of milling your own lumber to use in your woodshop is shared by everyone on this site equally. I have never owned or operated a bandmill, but would love to own one sometime in the future. I guess that I might be called weird for saying this but After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run. Seems like the wife cant pry me out of the woods. Maybe when I get a little older my tune will change, but for now I absolutely love my CSM.

 

[woodshop]

Woodshop, I will agree that you are biased. Really biased.

WELL... Rodney I'm shocked, SHOCKED I tell ya, that there is actual bias towards a certain brand of saw/mix oil/chain/you name it, or towards a certain type of saw or mill by members of this forum!! Well I never...

 

[woodshop]

I guess that I might be called weird for saying this but After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run.

Dusty well said... as I said several times in this forum, every time I open up a log with my csm or little bandmill, I feel like a kid in a candy store. A hard day milling, csm or bandmill or Logosol or WHATEVER... not only burns calories I need to be a burnin', but the icing on the cake is at the end of the day you have WOOD for the woodshop.

 

[woodshop]

Today i sawed out enough (two logs) low grade oak to put a landing and steps to go from my house to my garage and the better grade went on stickers... It took all of one hour to saw it all out and then i got to enjoy the nice weather doing something else, like picking my apples...

No pi$$ing match here, there's a place for all kinds of mills....

Todays milling, one of the two logs i sawed.

This one is on the bunks now, and i'll "quarter saw" it when i get to it...

Happy milling with what ever you use...

Rob

If I had room enough (and some day I might have), I would have a full blown bandmill like yours Sawyer Rob... THANKS for the pics. Curious what do you use to get those logs to that nice rig. You have a tractor maybe? Also, what do you use to cover that engine to keep it out of the weather... ever think of building a shelter over the mill? I know... another project!!

 

[Rodney Sinclair]

Rob, what I said was, everbody I know with a bandsaw will use a chainsaw to split a log to make it fit. As for as everbody selling a bandsaw and going "back" to a CSM, I don't know. I did and to tell the truth, I don't really gave a damn what everybody else does.

Rodney

 

[woodshop]

This is an interesting discussion and one that will be repeated countless times over the years. The main point is that each individual situation and set of objectives, requirements and constraints direct a person toward a particular solution...... Pushing the saw through the wood the entire time and working on the ground is very tiring. So I decided to upgrade to the Woodworkers Mill (WWM). It is still portable, but not as much as the TimberJig. Being able to stand upright and turn the crank to move the saw is just awesome and plain easy. After 5 hours I am not tired at all. Over the last couple of months since getting it, I have found it to be portable enough to get to the logs, so the extra weight and size haven't been an issue. I now use both together. I use the TimberJig for quartering and splitting large (> 24" dia) logs, and then process those pieces on the WWM. This is good combination for me.
Ted

Thanks Ted, you're right, different perspective, different set of objectives, requirements and constraints. How do you transport that WWM, just carry it or do you use a little wagon as I do? Takes me two trips to get everything I need to the log, mill, guide bars, tool box etc. Countless trips out carrying the lumber back to the van. You are right on target about working on the ground. I'm only 53, but my knees already can't take much of that nonsense. That's why I get everything up on little horses whenever I can. As for pushing it down the log, I like Roller-matics approach with his rollers riding on the guide bar. Not enough to retrofit my mill(s) like that, but a good idea as it takes the strain off the operator a bit, just as your crank does. Of course the flip side of that is I NEED to burn calories and get a work out in the woods... so I'm not all that concerned having to work a bit when milling.

I'd like to see that WWM in action... next time you hit the woods with it, take a camera and let us see how it works. I'm sure others would like to see your system in action too.

 

[flht01]

... That's why I get everything up on little horses whenever I can. ...

Dave, Can you give me the dimensions on horses you use? Height x Width

Thanks, Kevin

 

[woodshop]

Dave, Can you give me the dimensions on horses you use? Height x Width
Thanks, Kevin

...sure, will get exact specs, including the indexable chocks I built into them, tomorrow after work. Speaking of work.... A BAD DAY MILLING IN THE WOODS IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK!!

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Curious what do you use to get those logs to that nice rig. You have a tractor maybe? Also, what do you use to cover that engine to keep it out of the weather...

I'm sure you already know that i have a tractor, BUT, does that mean i HAVE to have a tractor???? No it doesn't!!

A friend of mine drags his logs to his mill with his car useing a chain on the trailor hitch. He then uses Norwoods log loader to roll them right on the mill. Another friend unloads his logs on a slight incline, and then rolls them down to and onto the mill with a canthook... There are many ways around all of the log issues without "haveing" to have a tractor.

My mill can easily be moved with an ATV, and it can sit right on the ground, so getting a log onto the deck isn't all that bad...

I cover the head on my mill, also i can lift it right off the track and put in in my shop if i want to.... I may build a "doghouse" over the head sometime, but i've just been too busy to get it done the last couple years, and i never feel like it in the winter!!

Rob

 

[flht01]

...sure, will get exact specs, including the indexable chocks I built into them, tomorrow after work.

Thanks Dave. I'm going to get a set built to mill off of along with a set to stack the boards on.

Speaking of work.... A BAD DAY MILLING IN THE WOODS IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY AT WORK!!

Especially with the well known superior Ripsaw, no matter what anybody thinks :hmm3grin2orange: (sorry Rodney, couldn't pass that up )

 

[artie__bc]

Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! All I did was ask one little question! It's great hearing averyone's (varying) viewpoints & stories on why they use what they use. I use an Alaskan because:

a) I had an 090 chainsaw that I got real cheap

b) The logs I cut are often over 36", not straight, and
many times have rocks and nails in them

c) The volume of wood I cut (at this time anyway)
doesn't justify me buying a full blown bandmill

and d) I can't afford a real mill anyway!

So, a CSM is what works the best for me right now, although something like that Ripsaw might be the way to go, if it could do say, a 24" cut or so.

cheers, artie

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

This thread has had some interesting reading for sure. Debates like this are great for anyone with a true desire to learn about mills and milling equipment as long as the participants maintain respect for the other's opinions' even if they disagree. Let's keep it going!

It's evident that an individual's choice of equipment is as much personal preference as anything else so here's my 2 cents. I usually use a CSM only for logs larger than 36" because I have a really nice Logmaster LM4 I can use. It's hard to push that CSM down a small log while thinking how much faster even a small bandmill would be. If my situation were different and I didn't have use of the LM4, I would buy a small or mid-size bandmill to partner with the CSM. The main reason for this would be the fact that most of my milling experience has been on a bandmill vice a Logosol or similar mill. Bottom line is they all can get the job done and make their owner's happy in the process. Who knows, if I could get my hands on a Logosol for a while, my preference may change. Meanwhile, the LM4 kicks A$$, takes names and gives me lots of lumber!

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! All I did was ask one little question! It's great hearing averyone's (varying) viewpoints & stories on why they use what they use. I use an Alaskan because:

a) I had an 090 chainsaw that I got real cheap

b) The logs I cut are often over 36", not straight, and
many times have rocks and nails in them

c) The volume of wood I cut (at this time anyway)
doesn't justify me buying a full blown bandmill

and d) I can't afford a real mill anyway!

So, a CSM is what works the best for me right now, although something like that Ripsaw might be the way to go, if it could do say, a 24" cut or so.

cheers, artie

I heard a rumor (from Woodshop, I believe) that Ripsaw is introducing a larger model soon. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[flht01]

Phew, talk about opening a can of worms! ...

You "done good" asking that question. Look at all the different milling methods being discussed here, even a little good natured ribbing here and there. The one thing that realy amazes me about milling, regardless of the method used, is how much we seem to enjoy it. dustytools said it best:

I think that the satisfaction of milling your own lumber to use in your woodshop is shared by everyone on this site equally. ... After milling all day with my csm I feel like a million bucks. I cant really call it work regardless of how hard or not hard it is to run. Seems like the wife cant pry me out of the woods. Maybe when I get a little older my tune will change, but for now I absolutely love my CSM.

I'm with aggie on this one, I'd like to see it going for awhile longer. I'd really like to see another picture or two of that LM4 in action.

 

[flht01]

I'm sure you already know that i have a tractor, BUT, does that mean i HAVE to have a tractor???? No it doesn't!!

A friend of mine drags his logs to his mill with his car useing a chain on the trailor hitch. He then uses Norwoods log loader to roll them right on the mill. Another friend unloads his logs on a slight incline, and then rolls them down to and onto the mill with a canthook... There are many ways around all of the log issues without "haveing" to have a tractor.

My mill can easily be moved with an ATV, and it can sit right on the ground, so getting a log onto the deck isn't all that bad...

I cover the head on my mill, also i can lift it right off the track and put in in my shop if i want to.... I may build a "doghouse" over the head sometime, but i've just been too busy to get it done the last couple years, and i never feel like it in the winter!!

Rob

Nice looking mill Rob, and thanks for the pictures. One of the things I really liked about the Norwood mill was the trailer package and being able to trailer the bed extension attached. I also like the way the torsion axles/wheels are meant to be removed letting the bed sit on the ground. I think the Timberking 1220 works the same way, but it's design (bed weight) prevents you from being able to trailer the 7 foot bed extension attached. You're only suppose to trailer the standard 12 foot (cut length) bed. Lot of choices on the manual mills, all seem to produce good results.