Just curious as to how many of you guys prefer using your hand saw over a chainsaw for limbing in the tree and pruning. I personally like it more because its one less thing to worry about, if my arm isnt moving nothing can really be cut...i like that. just curious as to what the rest of the bunch thinks.
chainsaw vs. Silky (or other brand of hand saw)
- Thread starter cntrybo2
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Messages
- 6,071
- Reaction score
- 605
All depends on what the work entails. If I am pruning and the wood is 2" or less the chainsaw stays on the ground or hung central in the tree. I almost never carry a chainsaw on my saddle unless the work is constant big work. The Silky Zubat is that good. I am also a believer in working smart............carrying a 10# chainsaw all the time doesn't fit into that category!!!
Sassafras
ArboristSite Lurker
I will jump onto that. I have a silky Sugoi 420mm the newest and biggest. I prune with that until I absolutely need a chain saw. And when the chain saw comes up it is usually for 2 or 3 bigger cuts (ex. 6 in dead wood) and back to the ground or hang in the tree. I have found using the hand saw on prunings to be alot safer and more efficent from haulin less weight around the tree. You are also less likely to run your cut past into another limb. and more likely to be right on the branch collar.
Most importantly respect the hand saw, although it won't cut a rope as fast as a chain saw, they can cut body parts pretty quick.
Most importantly respect the hand saw, although it won't cut a rope as fast as a chain saw, they can cut body parts pretty quick.
beowulf343
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like it has been said-depends on what you are going to be doing. Strictly removals for me so the handsaw usually stays on the ground and the 357 goes up the tree.
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
I think I'm lucky that my current job has me doing both some biggish removals and some fine pruning. My perfect day is one that starts with my spurs on, 200T gassed up and sharp, stripping my way up a single spar fir controlling everything, cut and chuck here, rig out that one there, blow a fat top perfectly flat then chunk my way down. It's adrenaline, it's blue smoke that clears at a 13,500 redline, and a single-minded purpose consumed with total control.
But I also love a morning where I can park the 200T, climb light and free and work (with stealth!) throughout the canopy on a quest for structural pruning, adapting the tree to its own habit, adapting my ownself to where the tree allows me to be. It's peaceful, and purposeful, rich with observation and planning.
But don't ever think you can't tag yourself with your handsaw. By its very nature, you are one-handing and since YOU are exerting the effort, and not a small but powerful engine, your followthrough must be ever-so-much-more controlled. It's EASY to hold a chainsaw almost stationary on the last bit of a cut, the hand saw REQUIRES you to apply force.
Your cut will be minor(ish), but it's still embarassing to bleed on the customer's lawn and have to call down for some gauze and tape to be sent up! Plus it spoils your zen.
RedlineIt
But I also love a morning where I can park the 200T, climb light and free and work (with stealth!) throughout the canopy on a quest for structural pruning, adapting the tree to its own habit, adapting my ownself to where the tree allows me to be. It's peaceful, and purposeful, rich with observation and planning.
But don't ever think you can't tag yourself with your handsaw. By its very nature, you are one-handing and since YOU are exerting the effort, and not a small but powerful engine, your followthrough must be ever-so-much-more controlled. It's EASY to hold a chainsaw almost stationary on the last bit of a cut, the hand saw REQUIRES you to apply force.
Your cut will be minor(ish), but it's still embarassing to bleed on the customer's lawn and have to call down for some gauze and tape to be sent up! Plus it spoils your zen.
RedlineIt
TaoTreeClimber
ArboristSite Operative
I dont know how many pints of blood I have lost to my Zubat. But for the most part if I am pruning and there is nothing over about 2" to cut I wont even bring a 200 up with me. Im all about reducing weight on my saddle and being able to move with the minimum of effort. Cutting myself with the Silkey may ruin my Zen, but being able to become one with the tree and move effortlessly through it restores it.
Kenn
Kenn
lync
ArboristSite Operative
Try pulling a handsaw against a fullyloaded 1/2" climbing line. Cuts through in
1 pull.
Corey
1 pull.
Corey
ossie50
New Member
Just brought the Ibuki and the Gomatro today. Both are great hand saws. I tape both sheaths together smaller one on top of the larger one, make things much easyer. Can prune finer branchs and remove large deadwood without hassel.
squad143
Tree Guy
Mostly do removals, however I bring a Zubat with me on the odd tree to cut the small stuff (under 2") on the way up. Flipline goes up easier and By the time I would have uncliped the saw and started it the Zubat would be in the holster and the limb already on the ground.
jomoco
Tree Freak
Interesting topic
Like a few others, 99.9% of my work is removals, but never easy removals, they are always over something valuable or in close proximity to high voltage or something to warrant paying me a premium rate to deal with it.
Admittedly the bulk of the removals I do are with a crane and require only an assortment of chainsaws to accomplish.
However there's always going to be those removals that a crane can't get to that will test your rigging skills, and this is when my boot scabbard handsaw gets alot of use. In cut and chuck situations over rooftops, I like to brush with my handsaw then finish the wood with my 200.
Even when I'm blocking down big wood that I know is going to send me on a heck of a bullride, I like to do all my cuts as normal with whichever chainsaw but leave just enough holding wood to allow me to attach the chainsaw to my saddle, then finish the last bit with my handsaw so I can quickly use both hands to triangulate myself before the ride starts in earnest.
I'm a firm believer in maximising handsaw usage, particularly in awkward or iffy situations that require total control.
I love my custom boot scabbard because I don't need to see it to access or put away my handsaw.
jomoco
Like a few others, 99.9% of my work is removals, but never easy removals, they are always over something valuable or in close proximity to high voltage or something to warrant paying me a premium rate to deal with it.
Admittedly the bulk of the removals I do are with a crane and require only an assortment of chainsaws to accomplish.
However there's always going to be those removals that a crane can't get to that will test your rigging skills, and this is when my boot scabbard handsaw gets alot of use. In cut and chuck situations over rooftops, I like to brush with my handsaw then finish the wood with my 200.
Even when I'm blocking down big wood that I know is going to send me on a heck of a bullride, I like to do all my cuts as normal with whichever chainsaw but leave just enough holding wood to allow me to attach the chainsaw to my saddle, then finish the last bit with my handsaw so I can quickly use both hands to triangulate myself before the ride starts in earnest.
I'm a firm believer in maximising handsaw usage, particularly in awkward or iffy situations that require total control.
I love my custom boot scabbard because I don't need to see it to access or put away my handsaw.
jomoco
Mitchell
ArboristSite Operative
where did you buy em
I have not been using my handsaw enouph but they are all dull from nail hits or quarry work. My ibuki scabbard sucks: the saw always falls out. I tie the saws off seperatly from the scabbard requiring me unclip the saws string every time. Sounds lazy typing this but that extra step stops me from using it as much as I should. I have been using a fiskers lately, its no silky but pretty darn good for 20$.
How did you rig up the boot scabbard. any chance of a pic?
[I like your idea of doubling up] I have been looking around for a "gomtara pro senti" and a another "ibuki". If were in the same city, that being victoria, does a local shop carry them. I have seen random silkies in some hardware stores periodically but not consistantly.
I have not been using my handsaw enouph but they are all dull from nail hits or quarry work. My ibuki scabbard sucks: the saw always falls out. I tie the saws off seperatly from the scabbard requiring me unclip the saws string every time. Sounds lazy typing this but that extra step stops me from using it as much as I should. I have been using a fiskers lately, its no silky but pretty darn good for 20$.
How did you rig up the boot scabbard. any chance of a pic?
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
Mitchell,
I'm gonna guess that "ossie50" is in the province of Victoria, Australia.
All the climbers I know in Victoria, B.C. will order Silky's and such through Sherill's, etc. There is Pacific Arborist Supply in Van, but I haven't been in his store on River Road for over a year, can't say what kind of handsaws/scabbards he might be carrying at the moment. I agree, that Ibuki scabbard was trash.
Jomoco,
Would also like to see pics of your custom boot scabbard. I buy Corona handsaws locally (Alf Becker's on Glanford, Mitch, they can't tune a saw to save their life, but I go there for files, wedges, sprocket grease, plus there's a cold beer store next door, Cheers!) I've made a couple of prototype boot scabbards myself, but have no way to upload pics.
Definitely agree, a quick access to your handsaw to swipe away epicormic fluff on a removal is great to have. I will finish some tricky branch grabs with the handsaw too, but blocking? Maybe I've been doing too much straight up and downish trees, I'll try thiis on my next wierd leaner. Always something to learn here!
RedlineIt
I'm gonna guess that "ossie50" is in the province of Victoria, Australia.
All the climbers I know in Victoria, B.C. will order Silky's and such through Sherill's, etc. There is Pacific Arborist Supply in Van, but I haven't been in his store on River Road for over a year, can't say what kind of handsaws/scabbards he might be carrying at the moment. I agree, that Ibuki scabbard was trash.
Jomoco,
Would also like to see pics of your custom boot scabbard. I buy Corona handsaws locally (Alf Becker's on Glanford, Mitch, they can't tune a saw to save their life, but I go there for files, wedges, sprocket grease, plus there's a cold beer store next door, Cheers!) I've made a couple of prototype boot scabbards myself, but have no way to upload pics.
Definitely agree, a quick access to your handsaw to swipe away epicormic fluff on a removal is great to have. I will finish some tricky branch grabs with the handsaw too, but blocking? Maybe I've been doing too much straight up and downish trees, I'll try thiis on my next wierd leaner. Always something to learn here!
RedlineIt
jomoco
Tree Freak
Mitchell
ArboristSite Operative
I guessed that it would be the province but as I have seen silkies in Sleggs I hoped the fellow had a local "dealer." Unfortunately Bill and Bonnie at pacific arborist in north van do not carry silkies. I have been buying most of my arbo stuff from them as they put it COD on the bus for me. I use alf beckers for my stihl pruducts and Grants in Sydney for dolmar and husky.
Jomoco
Thanks for the pics. Did you get that scabbard made or adapt another off the shelf product? What is the saw type you typically sheath?
Bermie
Addicted to ArboristSite
I also prefer to use my Silky as much as possible before calling for the 020.
Its like a third hand up there!
Even on a takedown I use it to clear away fiddly little branches on the way up, quicker than unclipping and starting a chainsaw.
Its like a third hand up there!
Even on a takedown I use it to clear away fiddly little branches on the way up, quicker than unclipping and starting a chainsaw.
Similar threads
