Chainsaw ???

[jetskiman]

Get a Makita 6401, Best saw for the price. If you have a decent small engine shop in your town they will work on it. Parts are avaliable online and arive in a couple of days if you want to make repairs yourself. I cut about 10 - 15 cords a year and have had my 6401 for 2 years and had no problems with it. 2 weekends ago I was felling trees for a farmer that was putting a ditch through his woods and while changing the chain on my Dolmar 6800 w/ 28" bar I noticed the oil line had a slce in it ( first problem with the saw in over 10 years) so not wanting to burn up the bar, chain or clutch I pulled the bar off and put it on my 6401 the usually wears a 20" bar I was impressed with how the saw handled that size bar (skip chain) not as much torque as the 6800 but it got the job done. So to make a long story short the saw is very versitile and when needed it could handle a bar up to the task of bucking up your big oak and it is well within your price range, is a profesonal class saw not a mid range rated saw. I have run stihl saws and their saws are high quailty but I personally can not justify the cost for the amount of time I put on a saw in a year.

 

[cjnspecial]

There's a Makita(Dolmar) 6401 with a larger 7900 top end in the for sale section of this site for $450. Hop on it if you don't mind forking over a few extra dollars.

 

[gixxer1237]

I agree with all that sawinredneck, it just seems that he doesnt seem to be dropping and bucking up 30+" trees alot. It just seems like he could run a 310 or 260 and do just about everything he needs to do most of the time. Maybe then he should get a bigger saw later, or rent/borrow a saw for this paticular job. To much saw can be worse than to little, cause with to little you got to work harder, and most people wont do that.

 

[limelakephoto]

My advice would be to look at all the recomendations on saws here, then find dealers close to you for the brands you want look at. Visit them and see who treats you the best, pick up the saws you are interested in and feel them out. I am not going to recommend any brand as most make excellent saws and if I did recommend one, i am sure someone would bash it. Save yourself alot of time and money ! DEAL WITH A DEALER THAT FIXES WHAT IT SELLS !

 

[toddstreeservic]

There's a Makita(Dolmar) 6401 with a larger 7900 top end in the for sale section of this site for $450. Hop on it if you don't mind forking over a few extra dollars.

:agree2: :agree2:

 

[sawinredneck]

I agree with all that sawinredneck, it just seems that he doesnt seem to be dropping and bucking up 30+" trees alot. It just seems like he could run a 310 or 260 and do just about everything he needs to do most of the time. Maybe then he should get a bigger saw later, or rent/borrow a saw for this paticular job. To much saw can be worse than to little, cause with to little you got to work harder, and most people wont do that.

Point taken, and noted.

On the renting idea, I tried that, the biggest saw I could rent around here was either an MS290 with an 18" bar, and the Makita 6401 with an 18" bar.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I've been pretty vocal about not getting to big of a saw for first time users. It sounds like hausfire has used his current saw enough to know that it isn't up to the task of finishing off a 38" trunk like he wants it to. I'm going to go with what Sawinredneck pointed out earlier

1) Have you ever cut up a 36" Oak with an 18" bar? I haven't. I have cut one up with an MS390 and a 25" bar. Even that was laborous and tedious at best! I spent a LOT of time per round, then had to quarter them to get them to the splitter. Yes, it is doable but you will sure feel it in the am!!! My 046 and a 32" bar, I can cut them from one side, much easier!!

:agree2:

I know what you are talking about, feeling it in the morning, I'm not saying he should go outside of the amount of $$$ he is comfortable with spending. Having to right tools or enough power when needed saves a lot of effort. The saw should be doing the work, not the operator , so much.

I have one saw that I don't get out often because of an old shoulder injury. But it gets used on occasion, till it isn't needed then immediately put away again. I use it because it saves time on the big stuff that a 12", 18" & 20" bar could do. It does it better without having to walk around the stump to finish the cut. I'm not walking around with it much. It's time used is in the cut. Smaller saws get used on smaller stuff.

 

[Dok]

You post a good question. I will try and give some reasonable answers.

1) Have you ever cut up a 36" Oak with an 18" bar? I haven't. I have cut one up with an MS390 and a 25" bar. Even that was laborous and tedious at best! I spent a LOT of time per round, then had to quarter them to get them to the splitter. Yes, it is doable but you will sure feel it in the am!!! My 046 and a 32" bar, I can cut them from one side, much easier!!

2)An Oak tree that size will have some branches that will be sticking up, and not in that good of a spot sometimes! The extra bar length can keep you more out of harms way, and certainly keep you having to make questionable cuts on one side and trying to finish it on the other. All while trying to keep it off you're head, legs, feet, arms etc.

3)Just because it's on the ground and you are "just bucking it up" doesn't mean it's going to be easy! There is a LOT of weight there and I doubt that it's all lying flat on the ground. We now reffer to the latter part of 2)

4) I personaly would rather work with an inexperianced person, wiling to learn with the right tool for the job. Rather than work with an inexperianced person trying to get by.

Just because they are on the ground doesn't make them "safe" by any means!! I'd much rather cut up 10-20" poles all day versus taking one 36" tree. I did a few 24-28" Oaks with an 18" bar. I did ONE 36" Oak with a 25" bar, I promptly bought the 046!!!! It's hard to explain until you cut a couple up. They are a beast all their own!!!

Here I go agreeing with the Sawinredneck again. This is getting to be a habit. Every one of his points is right on. Read #2 carefully, its important. Yes, you can cut from both sides but sometimes you can't get to one side safely with a short bar. Also, I use the 36" on the 660 to take down the limbs that are going straight up. I can reach them from further away and usually from the protection of other limbs (I can duck below other limbs if the limb I am cutting comes back on me). Remember, a 36" oak can have limbs that are 18" and the cut will be at shoulder lever or worse.
Dok

 

[Dok]

To the O.P., do you have to cut up the trunk? When I started out I left behind a lot of trunks. I took everything up to the point where cutting with the 20" bar became too much work or I didn't feel safe. My 026 and Husky 350 were all I needed. I moved up to larger trees gradually, with the help of cutting with an experienced logger.
Dok

 

[Gatsby174]

If it were me, I'd find a deal like that 288 that was posted earlier. My 288 runs like a raped ape no matter what it's cutting! If I were cutting oak that big that's the saw I'd choose, imho. HTH,
Gatsby

 

[sawinredneck]

To the O.P., do you have to cut up the trunk? When I started out I left behind a lot of trunks. I took everything up to the point where cutting with the 20" bar became too much work or I didn't feel safe. My 026 and Husky 350 were all I needed. I moved up to larger trees gradually, with the help of cutting with an experienced logger.
Dok

Great point/idea DOK!!!

Again, I am just trying to keep this gu from getting hurt or killed!!!