Changing from 18 in. bar to a 16/14 in. bar? 42cc engine

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Deadeyedan

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Location
Southern California
I'm at the point in my 6 acre back yard project that I need to upgrade to a better quality saw. I have been using a Craftsman 42cc with an 18 in blade for about a year and it has been fine. I've lost track of the cords I've cut. I take very good care of my equipment. I sharpen the blade every couple of tanks, drain it, clean it. It still looks new and I probably use it on average 2-3 hours a week. I've never had a single problem with it but...I realize I can do better and the section I'm working on now and going forward for the next couple years will require probably a 20 inch blade and much more power. After spending lots of time reading this and other forums, I think I'm going with a Husky 460. There are no Stihl dealers near me so that's basically the deciding factor. Anyway, I do some work in trees prior to cutting them. If I put a 16, or even 14 inch blade on this craftsman, could I upgrade to a more aggressive chain? Because of the MFG recommendations, I've only used the recommended "skip a tooth" design with this thing. Would that be over kill for an occasional use, tree saw? Am I better off just selling it and getting something designed for the purpose?
 
Last edited:
I used to run a couple of Craftsmans. I moved one to a 14" bar and the saw was much happier. If the saw hasn't given you any problems and you use it that much, might as well keep it as a second saw. Plus it is probably about time for a new bar anyway.
 
Are you using a narrow kerf (pixel) chain on your 18? A narrow kerf 14-16 inch chain would certainly free up some power and be appropriate for 42cc.
 
That bespeaks of the quality of saw since my 41cc 024 will pull a 18" bar buried in maple. Its slow but it does it. It's too bad Sears doesn't go for quality in saws like their old hand tool were.
 
put a 16" with a good chain(trash the safety crap) it will be like a new saw. several sponsors sell bar/chain combos to fit your saw for cheaper than retailers.
 
I put Stihl RSC on my Husky 36 and it's a whole different machine. If you can't get that chain then try the arbor pro non-safety chain. You won't regret it.
 
Better chain

Like others have said, get a better chain and your saw will transform. That Sears saw is most likely a Poulan Wild Thing in disguise. You never said how old it was.
I put a 16" 3/8" B&C off of one of my other saws on a WildThing and it cuts circles around the factory B&C. It still won't cut with my Husky 36 using a full chisel .325 chain on a 16" bar.
The next step for the Poulan is going to be a .325 pitch clutch drum and a B&C off my 36. Should be a lot better saw altogether.
I've cut pretty big wood with 16" bars for years. You'll be amazed what a good set-up will do for your Craftsman saw.
 
Many Thanks!

OK. Thank you all for the input. To address a couple of the questions. No, I have not run the narrow kerf, just exactly the same chain that it came with (replaced a couple of course) It is only a year old. I'm not sure if it is a disguised Wild Thing or not. I must have close to 100 hours on it. It's runs like the day I got it out of the box. Like most things, a little TLC will keep even a piece of junk running pretty good. I'm hoping my Husky will be a little more forgiving in case I don't clean it after a day of hard use. A buddy of mine bought the same saw at about the same time and his is thrashed. He swears he'll never buy another Craftsman...I never say anything, I just listen as I clean/sharpen mine.

So I'll downsize to the 16 inch and get a pro chain. Will a 14 inch just be overkill??? This thing won't kick back into my face (protected with a face shield of course) will it??
I may downsize the 460 to an 18 but keep the 20 inch bar it comes with just in case.

What are the vendors that you would recommend? Surprisingly this bar is in great shape. But I'm going to proceed with the 16/14 I use an air compressor to clean my bar... flip it every time, VERY modest filing but still, like new.

Thanks again everyone! I'm new to this forum. I love it!


PS - Is that skip a tooth design for safety/beginners or is it for fiberous wood? Would that be a good chain to keep for palm fronds???
 
Skip tooth is often used on longer bars (often but not limited to 24 inch +) and typically in softer wood. It allows use of longer bars with less drag and also good at clearing the chips out in a cut. Can run a little rough in dry hard wood. I am not experienced with it though as this is what I have read. Baileys (site sponsor here) is an outstanding vendor for bars/chains and parts. Their woodland pro chain is great chain at reasonable prices. I have also had excellent results with their "Arbormax" bars.
 
Dan, I did just that. I recently put a 14" on my old craftsman 42cc for limbing.
DSC02519.jpg

You can pick up a 14" Oregon b/c combo @ Lowes for $25. It cuts real fast even being a anti-kickback chain. No need for an aggresive chain (for me). That 42cc pulls through limbs like buttah.

Before you buy a 460, consider this:
346xp - 3.7hp - 11lbs - $499.95
357xp - 4.4hp - 12.1lbs - $709.95
460 - 3.7hp - 12.8lbs - $449.95
If you read around this forum, the 346xp is a HIGHLY revered saw. You should really check one out. Pick up these saws side by side and you'll realize how hefty the 460 really is.
 
Again, many thanks

MGoBlue - that's exactly what I'm going to do I walked into my local dealer ready to buy the 460 and he tried to talk me into the 346xp. I wanted to do some more research and I came home to your post, suggestion. I've looked around and that seems to be the best option for me. That 460 is a TANK but I will work 5-6 hour stints and the time or two that I wish I had a longer bar, bigger engine will not outweigh hours of walking around with 4 pounds less in my hands. Great suggestions. And I'll go to the 14 inch bar as well.

To clarify, I used "skip a tooth" incorrectly. It was actually a safety chain that only without the hump in the alternating links.

Thanks everyone for the comments! This is a great site!
 
I'd second the 14 bar.
If you have an fully adjustable carb with high jet screw, then opening up the mufller and adjusting the high end will transform it.
I have a Wild Thing toy project with those two simple changes and it really picked up some rpm and cuts pretty well. Just numbs the fingers, but it is fun as a plaything.
 
......

So I'll downsize to the 16 inch and get a pro chain. Will a 14 inch just be overkill??? This thing won't kick back into my face (protected with a face shield of course) will it??
I may downsize the 460 to an 18 but keep the 20 inch bar it comes with just in case.

......

I would go all the way down to 14" on such a saw. it will never become anywhere near "overkill" anyway. Any saw/chain can kick back - just make sure you always know what you are doing, and where the tip of the bar is.

It sound like you are quite good at taking care of your stuff - I like that! :msp_thumbsup:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top