Changing out the water in your OWB?

[hammerhead 5410]

I am curious as to how often, if at all, you OWB owner/operators change out the water. I installed my CB in 2001 and thought I had read that you need to change out the water every 5 years? On the initial fill, I added the anti corrosive fluid that was supplied with the boiler. Since then I tap a mason jar of water once or twice a year from the fill valve I have installed in the basement, to check the clarity. It has always been nearly as clear as tap water so I have not changed it out. This will be the 13th season on this water. I have probably added 20 or so gallons to keep it to the full level and have been thinking of adding another gallon of the no corrode because of that. I have also, these last 3 years, not had the off season deposit build up on the cast iron pump housing that interfered with the impeller on the fall startup each season and had to be disassembled, chipped and scraped clean. Thoughts??

 

[NSMaple1]

A new load of fresh water in it would also be a new load of fresh oxygen, & possible minerals to precipitate out.

I'd leave it, top up as necessary, and make sure you've got enough treatment in there (whatever that amount happens to be). Being extra sure on the treatment.

 

[Dogsout]

I don't think clear water is a good indicator of the condition of your water. Your PH level is going to make or break your burner IMO. If you feel you have to change it out at the very least replace whats in there with soft water which will help a bunch on your TDS and PH.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

You can purchase water test kits from Central Boiler or other suppliers.
That's the only way to know for sure the quality of the water.

 

[hammerhead 5410]

Well, I just tested it with a pool test strip and see my hardness is at 0, but my ph, alkalinity and cyanuric acid is off the strip too high. I think I will take a sample to my pool store where they use a computer program to test your water and you get an actual numerical readout of all your levels. Then, hopefully, we can come up with a cocktail to balance 200 gallons as opposed to 18,000.

I assume if I balance the chemicals in the water to safe swimming levels it should be good for the boiler??

As with checking the clarity of the water, I am just pleased to see that it is flowing nice and clear and not rusty sludge! Thanks for the heads up on checking the levels!!

 

[MarkLAne]

Hi Hammerhead - I don't think that a test for pool water will give you what you need to know - specifically the nitrate (nitrite?) level which helps with rust control and some other chemicals as well that might not be suitable for pool water. The test kit that Central Boiler offers is just the ticket.
Best regards from Maine - ML:msp_smile:

 

[raptor]

Older thread but winters coming so here are some tips from a seasoned user. I have a central 4436, I'll be on my 12 year with it this season. I change the water every two years, add one gallon of central brand rust inhibitor, I use soften water which creates perfect ph balance an nitrates. I use ash trol daily as instructed. I burn only seasoned wood and only wood. I live in middle of 15 acres heavy woods so wood is close and free. I had the 4436 fitted with a central option that dealers don't advertise for some reason, but should, a Draft inducer fan. It will bring your stove to temp in a quarter of the time, eliminate 3/4 of you ashes and smoke. Dealers seem to not tell people about it maybe out of ignorance or cost but it's a invaluable option! In 12 heating seasons I have had ZERO breakdown cost, I have replace rope door gasket twice. Tip one...buy the central stainless chimney spark arrestor which has a cap to keep rain/snow out of firebox. Green wood moisture and rain/snow will rust you firebox out in just a few seasons and is the biggest destroyers of O.W.B.! Tip 2... cap your boiler chimney in the summer at once. Tip 3... burn seasoned wood, only wood. Tip 4...get the fan Draft inducer! Tip 5...use softened water! Tip 6...stir ashes, especially corners weekly at a minimum. Tip 7...change water and rust inhibitor every three years maximum. Tip 8...use firebox ph modifier each day, it will make your life easier by keeping creosote off walls and ceiling. Tip 9...keep ash level to 3 to 4 inches. Once they are spent the no longer conduct head but instead insulate. Tip 10...Use since heaving 75 lb. Chunks of wood in there. When they hammer the top and sides 1000 times a year it matters. Tip 11...you are now a responsible O.W.B. operator, with very little preventable maintenance and cost you will keep that 8 thousand or better investment working perfectly for 20 years! It works! Sit back and enjoy

 

[NSMaple1]

What does changing the water do?

 

[greendohn]

I've got a Woodmaster, the older 4400.
I change the water every year, aprox. 112 gallons and add rust inhibitor, using softened water.
I keep the spark/rain cap on it year round.

 

[Marklambert61]

Leave the water alone....As far as the chemicals go only the water evaporates not the chemicals....So unless you spill or leak water no need to add anything.

 

[raptor]

Rust inhibitor like a lot of things in life is not a permanent thing. It does with time lose its effectiveness, leaving the metal exposed to react with the waters oxygen and natural electrolysis. Changing it yearly or two only makes good since, at 20 bucks or so it's cheap insurance as well! My water comes out perfectly clear, no sediment or tint. I do a eye inspection also through vent cap hole, its good and clean. It's not my position to make any effort in trying to convince anyone to follow this advise, only that the thread originally ask what O.W.B. owners were doing and what has worked for me for the last 12 years. I would also add the fill water I use is filtered with a sedimen filter also. We have a deep well so a sediment filter and water softener are already in place easing the procedure.

 

[NSMaple1]

Inhibitor may lose its effectiveness over time - I really don't know. But oxygen depletes out of boiler water over time, and by replacing the boiler water with fresh water you are also replenishing the oxygen. I think I would just add more inhibitor. Boiler water is kind of like wine - it ages to perfection while the precipitates drop out. So I'm not yet grasping the benefit of draining the oxygen-depleted water and replacing with a fresh batch, and have yet to read of exactly why fresh water is beneficial. Kind of like pouring your aged wine out without drinking any of it & starting over again with the dirty cask.

To each their own though.

 

[raptor]

At the risk of sounding crass, you may be referring to the "free oxygen" content of the water which here is not applicable. Since water is derived from oxygen it's oxidation capabilities are always present, continuing to add more chemical to a solution containing residual of the former is less than wise. One could find additional technical information on atmospheric hydroponic heaters easily. Pressurized, heated water, behavior is different. Since the thread originally was to discuss what owners were doing individually regarding this matter it's understandable how a variety of opinions exist. Having a large investment that requires years of trouble free operation to achieve payback requires wise planning. Seat of the pants approach here will fail.

 

[Poston5]

What about a stainless boiler? Should you change anything or treat anything? My salesman and my manufacture mentioned that salt in ppm's matter but I haven't checked it since it was setup 2 years ago. They recommended filling with collected rain water since it is distilled water, salesman actually brought 150 gallons with him when he set the boiler for me.

 

[NSMaple1]

Rain water isn't distilled water.

 

[raptor]

I cant comment on stainless steel with certainty, it seems that stainless has its own host of enemy's , mostly depending on the type (purity) of it. Since I had already determined what I was going to purchase I did not research it thoroughly Would seem logical that treatment of the water would be necessary to me. I'd very much like to here some comments from knowledgeable sources. NSmaple1 commented that rain water is not distilled water of which he is correct. Although the process is similar rain water becomes contaminated altering it's characteristic for our purposes. PH of rain water is hard to manage as anyone with a pool will tell you. Water, specifically distilled water is a poor conductor of heat and a poor very poor conductor of electricity. Good because it discourages electrolysis but bad because transfers heat poorly.

 

[Dogsout]

I run all soft distilled water in mine and am very happy with the performance of my OWB. What little bit I lose with the water not conducting heat as good I make up for it by not having my system all caked in sediments. As for the oxygen problem twice a year I put a little bit of sulfite (oxygen scavenger) in my water to help keep that down. Finally I have access to all of the RO (distilled) water I need from work so every spring I fill it to the top with water, silicone the lid shut to prevent having any exposed metal through the summer.

 

[raptor]

Great reply, thanks!

 

[avason]

opcorn:

 

[c5rulz]

Let me preface this with saying I do not own an OWB or operate one.

However I am familiar with large power plant boilers. The Operators check the chemistry of the water daily for PH, O2 levels, and a few other things. With the huge amount of plumbing involved in a commercial operation they spend significant amount of money making sure the water does not damage the feedwater and condensate pumps, steam tubes and the rest of the system. All makeup water is softened and treated prior to adding.

With that said, it seems that OWB water should be checked to see where it is at and take appropriate steps to make it chemically neutral and not reactive.