Cheaper cylinder/piston for a ps/dcs 540

[Khntr85]

The bike tube was just there to seal the intake and exhaust for the pressure test not as a gasket substitute.

Oh ok I am sorry.... Was not trying to be an ass by any means... I should have known what you meant sorry man....yes that should hold for pressure test.... Was there any gaps between the carb and the baffle???

Sounds like the crank bearings should be good considering you submerged it and seen no bubbles!!!!

 

[jacrawley]

There could have been I was afraid of submerging the carb so I stopped just above the base of the cylinder. I figured the lack of bubbles at the bearings and around the case was enough to verify a sound crankcase. I'm cleaning the carb a second time and hoping that was the problem. What is a good way to clean out the fuel tank?

 

[Khntr85]

Well just to clear up, I just meant take the carb off by hand and visually check the manifold area were it meets the carb.... I wouldn't ever submerge the carb either....: I would rinse with gas, then use a flathead screwdriver and a piece of cloth or cotton to scrub the inside!!!

 

[Khntr85]

And double check all the gaskets are seated right in the carb and not blocking any outlets!!

 

[jacrawley]

I cleaned the carb again and reassembled and it's idling well enough. What is the default carb setting for this guy? I went with 1.5 and it won't accelerate and is running mighty rich. Also I oiled the piston and cylinder well for reassembly and was wondering how much this effects the rich condition and how long it will take to burn away all that oil. Thanks guys for the advice and encouragement

 

[Khntr85]

I don't know on husky... Stihl is usually 1 turn out on each as a base setting... It should burn the excess oil quickly

 

[jacrawley]

Hopefully my last post on this subject. It is running okay but it will often die after running it wide open and returning to idle. I'm also having trouble getting it to idle without a small amount of chain turning. I have sought out the sweet spot between lean and rich on the left screw and backed out the idle stop as far as I can without it dieing. Any tips? Thanks again for all the help

I should add the intake boot gasket is new the carb gasket is original but appears to be fine to me. Perhaps I should give it a partial choke to test for sir leaks?

 

[Khntr85]

Try opening the L screw slowly while idling, until she idles well!!!

 

[jacrawley]

I started at one turned it until it started racing then back out till it was about to die then half way in between the two. As I understand things that's the way to do it? That's were it is at currently with the above problems. It does idle well it's after going full throttle that it dies. So you think I'm still to lean?

 

[Khntr85]

Well let me say this, I don't know if your to lean, but it won't hurt to open it more to see if it will help....Just open til she idles right then leave it....not to high, not to low!!!!

Example, my ol trusty ms250.... I did a simple muff mod on her and trimmed the tabs on carb adjustments so I can tune her correctly....now I could not believe how far I had to turn open the damn H screw to make her 4-stroke...... Now this saw ran for a few years in my hands stock, with the factory H-screw setting....I just could not believe how lean it was from factory....I must add I looked at piston and even though I personally didn't like the factory setting, the piston was NOT scored.....

Ps---- I have a ms290 that I have to play with the L-screw to get to idle right sometimes!!!!!

 

[Khntr85]

The chain turning is a bad clutch or your LA screw needs adjusted....

 

[Khntr85]

Check out the tuning 101 thread Bsnelling made here.... Just type tuning in the search button....very informative!!!