The worst place to have an air filter inlet is above the right front wheel.
A great deal of the dirt and dust gets tossed out there by the blade.
Did ya ever notice how that wheel is usually the one that wears out first?
Left rear wheel often seems to wear out next... second dirty spot from blade tossed dirt.
Some mowers can get a bit too nose light with the cylinder towards the rear (especially when bagging) so keep that in mind IF you decide to rotate the engine mounting positon.
I normally re-drilled the deck holes and turned Briggs engines to have the cylinder facing the rear when possible (some grass catchers won't fit with a rear facing cylinder).
I have a rear bagger, 21" push mower, that won't clear the rear cyl engine and it clogs a dry element air filter in just a few hours, if used in totally dry leaves.
I'm talking about a missfire from overly rich running kind of clogged, that no amount of tapping and blowing out will solve.
When I checked on the B&S snorkel kit it was just a bit over the cost of three filter elements, so it was a no-brainer to buy it.
I could bag for the most of the season on a single filter element, after installing the remote intake.
if you add a pre-filter screen to the snorkel, I usually could get an entire season (including leave bagging) on a single filter.
Sigh, I have a yard full of willow oaks, pecan & crepe myrtles.
Lots of dusty joy some years.
Another tidbit is the corrugated hose snaps nicely into the bottom/outlet hole of a B&S 5099 filter kit. the foam element can be washed and reinstalled.
The extra foam filter kit is about the price of a dry element, so one washing and it's paid for itself.
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-5099K-Filter-Upgrade/dp/B001NJ0BKQ
For some reason the remote intake kit isn't coming up in my google search, sorry.
Briggs seems to be going to those "no oil change" engines, so you may want to get your flathead/L head kit bits before they disappear?