Clutch Removal - Well that didn't go according to plan....

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Clutches should be EASY to get off, especially if you have to remove them to change the sprocket. Screw-ons are just a bad design, they should be splined on. Where did the design team from Pioneer go?
 
I've worked on a lot of 350s that was the first saw I ever rebuilt. Anyway I took several clutchs of the same way you tried to. Till I ran into one that wouldn't budge.I then cut down a socket, that would fit under the springs and used a impact and they come right off.No damage nothing breaks they just come off.
What you have described is similar to my thoughts for the next removal attempt.
I think I can find a or modify an impact socket to fit over what remains of the clutch core and apply force needed to remove it.
 
Success! I removed the remnants of the clutch rotor and the threaded piece had nubs on it at the breakage point that I could engage with a impact socket.
Put the rope back in the spark plug hole and put a 36" 1/2" drive breaker bar to the task. put my knee on the top of the cylinder and gave the bar a push. The clutch rotor broke loose with very little force applied. Clearly this is a far better option than the hammer and chisel method. I removed the cord and installed the sparkplug and the saw roared to life with no apparent effects of its ordeal. Time to order some replacement parts.
 
Clutches should be EASY to get off, especially if you have to remove them to change the sprocket. Screw-ons are just a bad design, they should be splined on. Where did the design team from Pioneer go?
They all got gassed when the Swedes took over
 

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