Code Horizontal Flue

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What do you think about having the furnace on the first floor with the fan noise and having the blower and duct work make the hot air blow downward then side to side to heat my house?
 
Put in an OWB and be done...If your thinking of filling the three tanks and storing the fuel for any length of time it will go bad and be unusable.

I understand what your trying to do, but like others have said, If you decide to install an inside wood stove
although more expensive..I would recommend having a properly installed (separate) chimney..
Believe me this isn't something to take chances with....
Best case scenario the house just burns down
worst case scenario your family is sleeping when it catches on fire...
Not trying to be harsh...just don't want to see something bad happen for you..

Your insurance agent should be able to assist you in what you can and can not do...To be insurable anyway
My agent told me how my wood stove had to be installed in my garage to be insurable.

After you install your stove you'll want to have your insurance agent inspect it...they'll take pictures and tell you if it's acceptable or not... If you don't and god forbid, have a fire you may not be covered.
What ever you decide...Good luck...
 
Nobody makes a downflow wood furnace for a reason, over heat/fire hazard during power outage/blower failure. Also, your blower would be cycling on and off constantly since you wouldn't be able to take advantage of gravity heating, which a wood furnace normally does very well and the very reason people love the feel of wood or coal heat vs. a gas/oil forced air furnace. You might get away with it if you put in a safety heat dump door like Yukon sells, but probably still not gonna meet local/federal codes though.

As far as blower noise, depends on the blower. Some are very noisy. I suppose you could replace the blower with a larger (read lower speed) one to make it a little quieter.

I think if you are gonna go with something in the living area, just put in a good wood stove, if that won't heat the whole house then at least the oil furnace won't need to run near as much. Bonus is that better quality modern wood stoves are about as efficient as you can get with wood heat. (less wood use)
 
Thanks RiverRocket. I agree with all that you said. My current plan is to put the Englander Furnace on my first floor and force the hot air down, will this work? Also, will the blower be to loud. Please note, that I am going to install a completely new 6 inch flue for this furnace.
 
If your going to install a new flue, put the furnace in the basement. Get a good furnace, good chimney. Do it right, do it once.
 
The problem is that I am running out of room for the flue and furnace to go anywhere in the basement. This is mainly due to clearance issues and I will need to use triple wall pipe which will be difficult to install around my could air return and the other ductwork. That is why I am thinking of installing it on the main floor and even running a couple heat ducts a little bit a way from each end of the furnace to blow the heat to the opposite ends of the house. How can I get the heat down stairs though. Off of one of the duct lines can I put a line going straight down to heat the basement?
 
I do see the benefits of the OWB to have hot water and only load it a couple times. However, this is for my moms house so I am sure her and my dad do not want to walk outside. Also, since they are only getting older that is why I am looking at putting the furnace on the first floor and run a couple nee ducts to the opposite ends of the house. Then, as a branch off of one of my ducts I was going to have t going down to the basement to heat it. Do you think I would need one of those inline fans that are in the duct line to push the heat downstairs? Let me know if anyone here has the englander and if the fan noise will be too loud for the first floor of my house?
 
I do see the benefits of the OWB to have hot water and only load it a couple times. However, this is for my moms house so I am sure her and my dad do not want to walk outside. Also, since they are only getting older that is why I am looking at putting the furnace on the first floor and run a couple nee ducts to the opposite ends of the house. Then, as a branch off of one of my ducts I was going to have t going down to the basement to heat it. Do you think I would need one of those inline fans that are in the duct line to push the heat downstairs? Let me know if anyone here has the englander and if the fan noise will be too loud for the first floor of my house?

Allow me to use a qoute that one of our old salesmen used to use regarding going outside to fill your boiler. ( for god sakes man, you have to go outside at least twice a day if for nothing more than to blow the stink off yourself ) the labor involved in outdoor is far less than indoor, the safety of outdoor is far greater than indoor, no smoke or mess from wood or bugs like with indoor. all i'm saying is maybe you should think about it and do some research. Open your mind up and listen to the guys and gals on the forum.
 
Keep in mind, a OWB only needs filled twice a day, maybe once a day in the spring and fall. What about an outdoor forced air wood furnace?

You really need to get a professional on site to look at your options. The installs you have floated by so far are gonna end up testing your local fire dept. and ins. policy and I'm sure you are not trying to do that!
 
I agree some of my ideas were not going to work. However, I like my latest idea to put the furnace on the first floor and run a couple new duct lines.


I am just wondering if I can branch one of the lines downward to heat the basement and if I need a fan in the duct line to help push it downward?

I also forgot to mention that If I can put it on the first floor there will be a cold air return vent right where I am going to place the furnace. So, I am thinking that I should make a box around the blower and connect to to the vent to cut back on noise also and to help performance.
 
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I am looking at having a branch line of the ductwork go downward instead of the main line. That way if there is a power failure or blower problem, the heat will still rise. I am just wondering if I can get the heat on the branch line to go downward without putting a blower in the ductwork fan on it?

I currently have like a root cellar and my mom does canning. So my goal is to heat the basement just so it doe not freeze. If it ends up being 45 to 50 degrees in there that is fine by me.
 
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Obviously you are not going to take the advice of those here trying to help. safety and common sense will not prevail on this one, at this point I give up. Good luck
 
So you are saying that you will still have a plenum on the furnace and allow most of the heat to go up and out (with duct runs, or no?), you are just trying to pull a little heat down one line into the basement? Well...that may work, maybe. You definitely will need a booster fan on that line, otherwise you will get NO heat from it into the basement. (heat rises, remember)

I thought you were saying you were going to try to push all the heat down into existing ductwork to heat the whole house. That would be asking for trouble.
 
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You are correct, I just want a branch line to put a little heat in the basement, off of the main eight inch outlet on the englander, I want to install it as follows,

I want to place it in my main liveing area the eight inch line will rise about 6-7 feet staight up in the middle of the line I wnat to put a vent to heat the game room. Then at the top of the line it will have a 90 degree elbow then run parallel to the house where it will heat my main part of the two story house. On that parelel line I was going to install a branch tee that brings the ductwork staright down into the existing ductwork that goes into the basement. Will this work and do I need one of those in duct fans for it to work. Also, out of curipsity what temp can I expect for the basemnt.

Lastly, where I said the line goes horizontal to the house, I was going to have a vent come out above my fridge. Is this a bad idea something tells me yes but heat does rise?
 
1. Heat vent near the fridge, well that depends how often you like to buy new fridges. :D The fridge probably would run a lot more, jack up the electric bill too. I suppose it might depend on exactly how close this vent would be though...
2. You will definitely need a in-line booster fan to get ANY heat into the basement. If I understand you right, you are saying that this will be an open ended run directly into the basement, right? If you are gonna try to tie into existing ductwork that feeds anything beyond just the basement, it likely will have zero effect anywhere.
3. Basement temp, who knows, that's anybodys guess. Depends on a lot of variables. Mainly, level of insulation or draftiness. From what you said about sandstone before, I'm guessing it's an old unfinished stone foundation. Good luck heating that. If you are lucky, maybe your plan will keep the pipes from freezing, but beyond that ??? :dunno: Just ask the guys on here that have tried to heat the whole house with a wood stove in the basement, doesn't work. The uninsulated walls just soak up all the heat, there is nothing left to rise into the house.

Just an FYI, I think PSG has a plenum kit for the mini caddy furnace (if I remember correctly) that is designed to be used in the living areas (not as ugly as normal plenum/duct and has distribution holes in all directions) Might wanna look that up just for ideas. I just looked it up, it is under the "mini caddy" and then click on "more pictures" http://www.psg-distribution.com/
 
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So I would have to run a new line to the basement if I connect it to the existing it wont work because the heat will travel else where even though my existing duct work goes laterally into the basement first before traveling up stairs or anywhere else?

Also, about the fridge it will be a few inches above the fridge and about 10 inches to the side of the fridge probably still to close but I figured I would ask?
 
Well, if you have a lateral run that you can tie into that can be blocked off so that nothing can go elsewhere, it might work. A lot of variables and assumptions being made here though. Trial and error is the only way to know for sure. No two houses are the same as far as what works and what doesn't when doing these creative heating/cooling projects. Just gotta make sure it's safe and foolproof!
 
Well, if you have a lateral run that you can tie into that can be blocked off so that nothing can go elsewhere, it might work. A lot of variables and assumptions being made here though. Trial and error is the only way to know for sure. No two houses are the same as far as what works and what doesn't when doing these creative heating/cooling projects. Just gotta make sure it's safe and foolproof!

or he could find someone who actually knows what their doing????

someone with NO experience with heating with wood, or how to run duct work PROPERLY, or would even consider running a horizontal chimney for 10-12ft (above an oil tank no less)
should REALLY find someone who knows what their doing, espically considering its not even in you're own home!

you're asking questions here that noone can answer unless they could actually see the house/situation! and the answers to the questions that can be answered here you just ignore/dont like.
theres ALOT of guys here that know what their talking about, but without actually being there to look at it, its pretty pointless to even ask these sorts of questions

BEST/SAFEST advise is to ATLEAST get someone there that knows what their doing, and have them look at it, you could still do the work yourself, but then you would know what needs to be done!
and not just guess at it and hope it works or doesnt burn SOMESONE ELSE'S house down!
 
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