Coil assembly replacement is it as easy as remove replace?

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Hi fellas. So I am learning more each day on vintage chainsaw repair but I am still faced with things I have no idea about. I have a remington 660 and 754 that need the whole assembly as shown in the pic. I can buy a used assembly and was wondering if it's just as easy as remove the old assembly and install the donor assembly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And where in the heck do all those wires go? Thanks!Screenshot_20220216-163208_eBay.jpg20220215_192609.jpg
 
You’ll have to check the timing and set the points gap.

I’d suggest asking him to check the primary and secondary readings of the coil as well as testing the capacitor for taking a charge, holding and discharging fully as well as capacitance. Without this info, you’re doing the same as buying a 2 stroke without seeing the condition of the skirt through the exhaust - it could be a complete dud.
 
Are those chip conversions as easy as they look? I've been researching that and it seems fairly straightforward
Stay with points! They keep the authenticity of the machine. Message me privately if you want me to talk you through the process of setting your saw up, it’s very simple.
 
Stay with points! They keep the authenticity of the machine. Message me privately if you want me to talk you through the process of setting your saw up, it’s very simple.
Will do! Thanks. :rock: Points are hard to come by for a remington super 754. I'm going to pick up a point file set shortly
 
Yea im at a loss, I have my drill hooked up to turn motor over and I have the positive lead in plug boot and the negative lead on the motor and multimeter on the 20v DC setting all I get is negative voltage readings in the -0.88 to -1.74 range
 
The picture of saw with no points is a parts saw. The saw I'm working on was complete with ignition parts. I really have no clue what I'm doing 🤣 just reading posts and watching videos to figure it out. The sparkplug wire seems to be in good shape
 
Yea im at a loss, I have my drill hooked up to turn motor over and I have the positive lead in plug boot and the negative lead on the motor and multimeter on the 20v DC setting all I get is negative voltage readings in the -0.88 to -1.74 range
What are you trying to do here? If you think you can detect the high voltage spike to the spark plug, you can't do it with a multimeter, spark duration is too short and it's a good way to ruin a multimeter. Did you get the points gap set to factory specs? Wrong gap will affect timing. You can't expect to get any spark by turning the FW by hand, there is a minimum required RPM that has to be met before the FW magnets induce enough current in the coil to produce a spark. A good basic ignition test is to open the gap on a spark plug to at least 0.080" and see if it will produce a spark when you hold the base of the plug against the cylinder and pull the engine over fast with the pull starter.
 
I was turning the flywheel with a drill. I cleaned the corroded points up and changed the condensor. I wasn't aware that a multimeter would not detect spark. I seen some video showing it. Thanks for the info. I checked the gap and a business card fit in them with alil play the business card on micrometer was .015. Spec was .020. I got the saw up and running today but then the fuel nipple broke off so now in search of new carb part or hoping jb weld fixes it.
 
I was turning the flywheel with a drill. I cleaned the corroded points up and changed the condensor. I wasn't aware that a multimeter would not detect spark. I seen some video showing it. Thanks for the info. I checked the gap and a business card fit in them with alil play the business card on micrometer was .015. Spec was .020. I got the saw up and running today but then the fuel nipple broke off so now in search of new carb part or hoping jb weld fixes it.
Good to see progress. Just for info, the high tension voltage required to fire the plug is about 20,000 volts but without a path to ground through the plug, it can rise to 60,000 volts or higher. If you subject a digital multimeter to that level of voltage you are REAL lucky if it survives. If you are using an older analogue meter, you might see the needle bump off it's stop when the spark occurs.
 
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