Considering a 550xp, are the new ones "fixed"?

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ScooterInWI

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I have a 371xp and love it. Great saw. Now I'm looking to buy something a little lighter. I was pretty stoked about the 550xp until I started reading reviews......not pretty. I've been digging through the forums reading about auto tune issues. Having a certain start up sequence that must be followed even when warm, having to run wide open out of a cut for a sec or two, having to run wide open at startup so it can tune itself, etc.. all of these posts are several years old. So I'm wondering if they got all that crap figured out.. I called the local dealer and he wasn't much help. You could say I'm gun shy about investing in one. Anyone out there have a newer model that can give me the low down?
 
The 562 gets a much better reputation but as a rule I stay away from computer carbs. They're expensive and require a lot of dealer support. I haven't run a newer 550 though.

Find a low hour 346xp. Cheaper and fewer headaches. A non m-tronic 261 would be okay too.
 
I have an 03 Cummins with haywire windows and locks. :dizzy:

Computer carbs will probably be great in 5 years, but right now they have issues. They're fundamentally less reliable because they have difficult starting procedures. They're also less maintainable in the field (especially AutoTune) and have expensive proprietary components. Dealership maintenance costs aren't practical for me, so I have simpler saws.

Also, lots of people like computer carbs but every one I run starts awful in the heat. I can't run saws that won't start. Just my impressions. I only run 2 M-trons and no ATs, so I'm no expert.
 
Do you still have a carbureted vehicle with crank windows and manual locks too?
That is an extremely poor comparison to compare a saw to a car and why electronic controls are better....

I own a 550xp and it is a good saw, it makes good power and the electronic controls operating the carb do a good job, sometimes too well I will say.

For example I always seem to run out of bar oil before gas lol, the saw will tune so well automatically that it can great power on practically fumes... you need to watch your b&c or at least put less gas than oil in this saw.
Another thing is cleaning the filter, especially if it is still slightly damp, or if day for some reason you put on a brand new filter right after your other one is 99% clogged.
The saw will learn a new fuel map to adjust for the lack of air which is great but it can be annoying. For me this adjustment takes about 10 good cuts in the wood.
For my purposes of firewood and furniture this is not a big deal, just annoying.
But for a pro logger who’s balls deep in a job this could make or break the choice between electronic adjustments and manual.

Cold starts do need warm up time to adjust, again it’s only a couple minutes but if your a logger and you want to just get right too it, annoying...
With my carbed saws it’s start, choke off and start cutting. Not as much power but it won’t stall and die!

Hot starts work 100% of the time if you follow the directions in the manual.
-flip choke lever up and then back down to run to set choke at half.
-keep decomp out
-pull and start.

I deviated from this a couple times and had troubles getting it to keep running...

The stock muffler is extremely restrictive in which heat is kept in the engine too long!!! IMO this greatly reduces lifespan of bearings and seals. After a muffler mod I didn’t make much more if any power but I can tell you that heat is properly expelled from the engine now. I can keep my hand on the top bar without feeling any heat and I can touch the top plastic without getting burned when the saw is idling.

Another note is that with manual adjustments you always know your running rich if that’s how you like it, and you rarely have to adjust unless you go from winter to summer and vice versa

Finally I do wish I would have done more reading and got the 562xp, it has larger bar support and with only two more pounds of weight it’s worth it for the firewood guy like me.
The 550xp maxes out at a 20” bar, and is not designed to use 3/8 chain, only .325. People say it doesn’t have the proper power but I’m gonna mount a 3/8 rim 20” bar and chain tomorrow and find out for myself.

The build quality on the saw is excellent and did I mention it’s really light? Also up here the 562 is about 300$ more so it’s all about what you can afford. For the price I think this saw is great and will last a lifetime if treated well.

Again there are pros and cons to electronic fuel control and I think husky should be putting in throttle position sensors to greatly improve learning time for the cpu..

This all just what I think based on my own experience with this saw and a few others, but a saw is not a vehicle and comparing it that way to convince others they are wrong in their choice is naive.
 
That is an extremely poor comparison to compare a saw to a car and why electronic controls are better....

I own a 550xp and it is a good saw, it makes good power and the electronic controls operating the carb do a good job, sometimes too well I will say.

For example I always seem to run out of bar oil before gas lol, the saw will tune so well automatically that it can great power on practically fumes... you need to watch your b&c or at least put less gas than oil in this saw.
Another thing is cleaning the filter, especially if it is still slightly damp, or if day for some reason you put on a brand new filter right after your other one is 99% clogged.
The saw will learn a new fuel map to adjust for the lack of air which is great but it can be annoying. For me this adjustment takes about 10 good cuts in the wood.
For my purposes of firewood and furniture this is not a big deal, just annoying.
But for a pro logger who’s balls deep in a job this could make or break the choice between electronic adjustments and manual.

Cold starts do need warm up time to adjust, again it’s only a couple minutes but if your a logger and you want to just get right too it, annoying...
With my carbed saws it’s start, choke off and start cutting. Not as much power but it won’t stall and die!

Hot starts work 100% of the time if you follow the directions in the manual.
-flip choke lever up and then back down to run to set choke at half.
-keep decomp out
-pull and start.

I deviated from this a couple times and had troubles getting it to keep running...

The stock muffler is extremely restrictive in which heat is kept in the engine too long!!! IMO this greatly reduces lifespan of bearings and seals. After a muffler mod I didn’t make much more if any power but I can tell you that heat is properly expelled from the engine now. I can keep my hand on the top bar without feeling any heat and I can touch the top plastic without getting burned when the saw is idling.

Another note is that with manual adjustments you always know your running rich if that’s how you like it, and you rarely have to adjust unless you go from winter to summer and vice versa

Finally I do wish I would have done more reading and got the 562xp, it has larger bar support and with only two more pounds of weight it’s worth it for the firewood guy like me.
The 550xp maxes out at a 20” bar, and is not designed to use 3/8 chain, only .325. People say it doesn’t have the proper power but I’m gonna mount a 3/8 rim 20” bar and chain tomorrow and find out for myself.

The build quality on the saw is excellent and did I mention it’s really light? Also up here the 562 is about 300$ more so it’s all about what you can afford. For the price I think this saw is great and will last a lifetime if treated well.

Again there are pros and cons to electronic fuel control and I think husky should be putting in throttle position sensors to greatly improve learning time for the cpu..

This all just what I think based on my own experience with this saw and a few others, but a saw is not a vehicle and comparing it that way to convince others they are wrong in their choice is naive.

Thanks Brent! That's good info. I run a 3/8 20" on my 371xp. My thought was to run 20" on the 550 so I can use my existing chains. I'll be interested to hear how that works out for you. Then I can leave the 36" on the 371.
I'm not a pro. I just cut a lot of firewood. My current backup saw is a home lite xl-12.... fun little saw to run once in a while, but I'm looking at the 550 to be my new primary.
 
I have a 371xp and love it. Great saw. Now I'm looking to buy something a little lighter. I was pretty stoked about the 550xp until I started reading reviews......not pretty. I've been digging through the forums reading about auto tune issues. Having a certain start up sequence that must be followed even when warm, having to run wide open out of a cut for a sec or two, having to run wide open at startup so it can tune itself, etc.. all of these posts are several years old. So I'm wondering if they got all that crap figured out.. I called the local dealer and he wasn't much help. You could say I'm gun shy about investing in one. Anyone out there have a newer model that can give me the low down?
I have a 550xp for four years bought used. Been a great small saws. I use the **** out of it. Summer through winter . Auto tune seems different in cold weather. Little cold nature but starts right up in 2 to 3 pull. I've have noticed some people get a little carried away on there post or answer. On here have ported 346xp and a 260 pro the stock 550xp is my go to saw. Have never used a 261 but have heard a lot of good positive feedback on saw. I like the 550xp so much looking at 562xp now.

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk
 
20” bar? 562 all day long. Even takes a large mount bar like a 372 which I prefer. 20” 3/8 bar is 60cc saw territory imho.
I prefer 3/8 chain to. I think you get a lot faster cut. But didn't know used same large mount bar . That good I have good bars and chains.

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk
 
I prefer 3/8 chain to. I think you get a lot faster cut. But didn't know used same large mount bar . That good I have good bars and chains.

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk
Yep, 562 is a large mount, the 545/550/555 take a small mount.
 
Ive had really good luck with the auto tune saws from Husky. I have seen more issues with the 562 (carb issue) than the 550 and the least issues with the 576. The 550s are a screamer. If you want to run a 20" bar I would step up to a 60cc class saw. The 550 really shines with a 16-18" bar. If you decide on a 550 PM me I have a new one I am looking to sell.
 
Your absolutely right on the 16 to 18 in bar
Ive had really good luck with the auto tune saws from Husky. I have seen more issues with the 562 (carb issue) than the 550 and the least issues with the 576. The 550s are a screamer. If you want to run a 20" bar I would step up to a 60cc class saw. The 550 really shines with a 16-18" bar. If you decide on a 550 PM me I have a new one I am looking to sell.
Your absolutely right on 16 to 18 bar. Have you ever tried 16''3/8 chain I've been thinking about. For all the stock small saws they have power good rpm and don't vibrant your hands and wrist at all .

Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk
 
As said above, putting 20"3/8 on a stock 550 will make the saw bog easily.

I think you should get a 562.

But the two have different purposes.

The 562 is a general purpose felling and bucking saw.

The 550 is a small tree and limb zipper.

You really want both.

And a 395.
 
I've got a 550 that's a 2011 model year. Love the power (ported) and weight, and I run a 20" 3/8 fwiw, but it's the most finicky starting of all my auto tune saws. I have a 2011 576xp which has the version 1 software and it starts and runs flawlessly. My 2017 562 is the same way so maybe they've updated some things on the newer models of the 550 as they have the 562xp.
 
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