The later Stihl 031AV's came with electronic ignition. What is required to convert one with point ignition to the later electronic ignition? Has anyone here converted one? Anyone have a parts list of what is needed to do it? Thanks.
Converting the Stihl 031AV to electronic ignition
- Thread starter Gabby
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Fish
Tree Freak
That is all? You have a procedure or document showing how to do the conversion such as do you remove the old points etc.? Thanks.
To convert an old point model over to a nonpoints model useing stihl parts, you need the coil and the flywheel along with the wiring to make it easy.
Or go to napa buy an omega module for under $20. Follow instructions, except for reverse the wires, and you have a nonpoints model.
Or go to napa buy an omega module for under $20. Follow instructions, except for reverse the wires, and you have a nonpoints model.
Do the points and condenssor get left in place? Or is it better to rmove them?
discounthunter
Addicted to ArboristSite
leave them ,no need to remove them. the new parts get mounted outside of the flywheel. you do have to disconnect the trigger wire or you can cut it.
Oh my Gabby, there is so much info on this subject on here. In the search bar type 031 points atom and read for days. Not trying to be nasty to you, I love the 031's, probably about my favorite. Just run that search and all the info you will need (plus some) will be provided.
Omega 031 need help
Sorry to bring up a old thread but I need help. I have an old 031AV points model went through carb and all that. The problem was it wouldn’t rev up, I knew it was condenser. I went to Napa and purchased the Omega module, wired it opposite to directions<swapped wires on coil>, mounted module in air box and grounded to coil. I get no spark at all! Any ideas on what may be wrong?? I have used these modules before on different saws with great success.
Sorry to bring up a old thread but I need help. I have an old 031AV points model went through carb and all that. The problem was it wouldn’t rev up, I knew it was condenser. I went to Napa and purchased the Omega module, wired it opposite to directions<swapped wires on coil>, mounted module in air box and grounded to coil. I get no spark at all! Any ideas on what may be wrong?? I have used these modules before on different saws with great success.
Did you ground the metal bracket on the module or the wire off the module? I haven't messed with one in a while, but I think if you ground the wire its the same as a flipping the kill switch.
I converted an 031 over to pointless last year. I installed the unit inside the airbox, running the wires through a hole to the on/off switch and to the coil. As I remember this required me to remove the flywheel key and move the timing up about 20 degrees or use an electronic ignition flywheel. The saw ran great after the conversion.
Last edited:
031 AV Electronic Ignition Conversion
I first pulled off the fuel tank and flywheel. It exposed all of the old components. Rip them all out and leave as much wiring connected as possible
You need to cut the wire on the coil and connect it up to the module
This is from the coil, to the module, and from the switch.
Shrink Wrap and you're good.
The catch 22 is finding a place to mount the Omega module. It's rather large with the tabs for the push on electrical connections. Mine is off a bracket I put in the air box by the idle screw.
I first pulled off the fuel tank and flywheel. It exposed all of the old components. Rip them all out and leave as much wiring connected as possible
You need to cut the wire on the coil and connect it up to the module
This is from the coil, to the module, and from the switch.
Shrink Wrap and you're good.
The catch 22 is finding a place to mount the Omega module. It's rather large with the tabs for the push on electrical connections. Mine is off a bracket I put in the air box by the idle screw.
Timing must be adapted indeed or it will run like crap.
On my saw with the Omega module. It does not have to be done.
Depends on the case. The topic has been debated many times before and I just repeated Sir Lakeside : see thread http://arboristsite.com/chainsaw/25974.htm
I have rebuilt many 031 in the past years and have encountered chipped ones that had the Obvious timing issues. There are a lot of modern Stihl techs who don't know about this.
Lakeside was my tech hero. Lord, I miss his posts...:msp_wink: ......except for the one where he mentioned me to being a redneck tech with a vise grip and a bent screwdriver.:hmm3grin2orange:
Last edited:
Nardoo
Addicted to ArboristSite
I miss Andy too and all his knowledge. What a mind. I bet he is reading this and is apologetic about that 'redneck' comment.:msp_biggrin:
I'm new to the site, so forgive me if I'm asking a stupid question. I just received as a gift from a friend an 031 AV in near mint condition, except my local repair shop tells me it needs a new coil (has electronic ignition). As you all probably know, they don't manufacture this part anymore, and none seem to be available anywhere. I keep thinking there must be some kind of "fix" for this. These posts seem to be fairly recent, so I'm wondering if the "Omega module" mentioned is what I need, or am I just out of luck finding the coil?
Thanks in advance for any information,
apis
Thanks in advance for any information,
apis
Welcome apis, can you post pictures of the saw with the flywheel off?
Most electronic S031s used a two piece ignition, the coil and then the trigger module. If the S031 saws ever used an integrated coil/trigger like some of the later S032, I've never seen one & they would be harder to repair.
I'll go out on a limb (pun intended), but I've never ever seen an open or 'bad" CDI type coil in an S031, and they are easy to test. However, the CD triggers fail, and they fail quite often.
If you have the original black "crescent moon" shaped module that is mounted under the flywheel, it can be replaced with the Stihl 1118-400-1001 trigger by mounting it outside of the flywheel & running the coil primary wire to it. The important issue is that timing will not be changed by doing this, and you just re-use your original flywheel.
Most electronic S031s used a two piece ignition, the coil and then the trigger module. If the S031 saws ever used an integrated coil/trigger like some of the later S032, I've never seen one & they would be harder to repair.
I'll go out on a limb (pun intended), but I've never ever seen an open or 'bad" CDI type coil in an S031, and they are easy to test. However, the CD triggers fail, and they fail quite often.
If you have the original black "crescent moon" shaped module that is mounted under the flywheel, it can be replaced with the Stihl 1118-400-1001 trigger by mounting it outside of the flywheel & running the coil primary wire to it. The important issue is that timing will not be changed by doing this, and you just re-use your original flywheel.
Hi, Hotshot,
I'm picking the saw up tomorrow from the shop--I've asked them to remove the flywheel, as I do not have the special puller. I'll send the photo. I'm 75 years old with lots of experience tinkering, repairing, and overhauling engines, so I figure I can get it back together again if I can get the part. I'll have to review the comments about timing, however, but sounds doable.
Thanks for this info!
apis
I'm picking the saw up tomorrow from the shop--I've asked them to remove the flywheel, as I do not have the special puller. I'll send the photo. I'm 75 years old with lots of experience tinkering, repairing, and overhauling engines, so I figure I can get it back together again if I can get the part. I'll have to review the comments about timing, however, but sounds doable.
Thanks for this info!
apis
Hi, Hotshot,
Well it turns out the mechanics were not there today, so I'm still in waiting mode until at least Monday. I did leave them a note with the info you sent, so presumably they will check out the trigger and we'll see. I realize long distance diagnosing is iffy, but this seems pretty straightforward to me. When I received the saw the owner told me it was not running very well. I tested the spark, and it was good. It started up after just a couple of pulls. I bucked up some logs and it ran strong, but after about 5 minutes of cutting it quit. Checking the spark again--none. I waited 20 minutes while it cooled down, started it up again, ran strong, cut wood for 5 minutes and it quit. No spark. Seems like a pretty consistent pattern to diagnose. Does that sound like trigger to you, or coil, or can you tell the difference via long distance?
Thanks,
apis
Well it turns out the mechanics were not there today, so I'm still in waiting mode until at least Monday. I did leave them a note with the info you sent, so presumably they will check out the trigger and we'll see. I realize long distance diagnosing is iffy, but this seems pretty straightforward to me. When I received the saw the owner told me it was not running very well. I tested the spark, and it was good. It started up after just a couple of pulls. I bucked up some logs and it ran strong, but after about 5 minutes of cutting it quit. Checking the spark again--none. I waited 20 minutes while it cooled down, started it up again, ran strong, cut wood for 5 minutes and it quit. No spark. Seems like a pretty consistent pattern to diagnose. Does that sound like trigger to you, or coil, or can you tell the difference via long distance?
Thanks,
apis
That's correct, it sounds like an ignition problem if you are losing spark. If you have an ohmmeter, you can quickly check the plug wire terminal to ground resistance when it's hot and dies. If it's open, and not 6.5-8 K ohms, then the secondary winding has failed. To test the primary coil side, you have to take the starter and cover off and isolate the wire from the trigger. By that time it's cooled back off again, but I'll bet it's not the coil anyways.
If it still had spark when it gets warmed up then a plugged fuel tank vent on the gas cap would have been likely.
I've replaced a lot of the trigger modules on the later 032 series.
If that saw hasn't had a fresh carb kit put into it in the last seven or ten years, the fuel pump & metering diaphragms are probably "potato chip" crispy too, which makes it hard to get consistent carb settings.
"I'm 75 years old with lots of experience tinkering, repairing, and overhauling engines, so I figure I can get it back together again"
You're two years younger than my Dad, and he still cuts wood with me & loves to run the levers on the SpeeCo hydraulic splitter & then stack the wood, that is if I'm loading/unloading it. He quit felling though, as he said he can't run fast enough if there's a mishap!
If it still had spark when it gets warmed up then a plugged fuel tank vent on the gas cap would have been likely.
I've replaced a lot of the trigger modules on the later 032 series.
If that saw hasn't had a fresh carb kit put into it in the last seven or ten years, the fuel pump & metering diaphragms are probably "potato chip" crispy too, which makes it hard to get consistent carb settings.
"I'm 75 years old with lots of experience tinkering, repairing, and overhauling engines, so I figure I can get it back together again"
You're two years younger than my Dad, and he still cuts wood with me & loves to run the levers on the SpeeCo hydraulic splitter & then stack the wood, that is if I'm loading/unloading it. He quit felling though, as he said he can't run fast enough if there's a mishap!
