Cracked tree--lost cause?

[Area Man]

I have a ~6-year-old Sycamore/London Plane that is ~18 feet tall. I recently found a vertical line on it--a crack in the bark--about 10" long. The split appears on both sides and it's about 7' off the ground.

The split is not very wide and it's not torn open or anything. It looks sort of like what you'd expect if someone cut a gash in the tree with a solid knife. But I can only imagine that the appearance of the split on opposing sides indicates that this is a split that penetrates the entire tree.

Is this tree a lost cause, in need of removal? Or should I stake it and help it heal? Will it heal?

 

[bomar]

it might heal over will the tree hit anything if it does come over

 

[Area Man]

It's 20-25' from my house, so if it fell now it may not do much, if any, property damage. But 5 or 15 years from now, it will be a different story--if the tree is not viable.

Someone told me that the bark will heal, but the trunk will not heal inside. Consequently, the tree needs to be removed because eventually a strong wind will take it out. I don't mean to disrespect that person, but for me, removing this tree will be a big deal, so I want other opinions, whether they agree or not.

I guess the core issue is whether a Sycamore/London Planetree is capable of healing itself inside when split in this way.

 

[pdqdl]

PIctures would help a lot.

Does it look like it was caused by a huge force; big wind perhaps? Are there split fibers reaching across the split?

It sounds like there is a lot of time left for this tree before it gets big and dangerous. It might be an excellent candidate for bolting the two halves back together.

Pics!

 

[Area Man]

I would have posted pics but before even asking about this issue, I sprayed the split with pruning seal. Pics would probably be useless at this point.

We had a couple strong wind storms recently, with 60-70 MPH winds.

The "crack" as I refer to it isn't an actual opening; it's not a hole. Just two ~10" vertical "slices" in the tree, on opposite sides, about 7' from the ground.

So what I am saying is... Since the split appears on both sides of the tree, isn't it necessarily broken straight through the trunk? And if so, does that make it a lost cause?

The tree isn't dangerous now, but if it's a lost cause, I'd rather get another tree put in and established. (Although my wife is already making plans for a swimming pool.)

 

[pdqdl]

Pruning seal will do more harm than good.

An experienced arborist would gain a lot more from good pics than you think. Since you choose not to post a pic (which is difficult here, anyway), you are choosing to limit our ability to respond with good answers.

Bolt the two halves together. It will limit movement and accelerate any wound closure that may occur, while simultaneously adding strength to the trunk.

Study cambium damage and how trees "heal" themselves, and this will help you understand the reason for bolting.

If you just want a different tree, cut it down and put in another. No better time than now. If you like the tree, and would prefer to keep it: bolt it together at the split, and then give it a good looking at every five years. A tiny imperfection in the middle of a giant sycamore would not be an issue of concern 60 years from now.

 

[rarefish383]

More info is needed, not just about the tree and how much you like it now. Your lanscaping plans make a difference in weather you keep the tree also. If you and your wife are thinking about a pool, about the last thing you want in the yard is a Sycamore. I love them down by the creek, or around the pond, but they are not the best yard tree. They get a heavy fuzz on the leaves that wil drive a person with alergies crazy. They grow big, fast. They constantly shed dead wood. Thay really are quite a dirty tree. I think 25ft from the house is too close. In 30 years the tree will be all over top your roof, or the next owners. They have a dense canopy, good shade, poor grass.

As for the tree itself. Is this split at the "Y" of 2 central leads going up? If so that's creating a future weak spot and I'd start over with a new tree.

Is the split in a long straight section of trunk with good solid wood above and below? There are many things that can cause bark to split. Sometimes a very fast growing tree will split the bark. That usually is no problem at all. Take a thin bladed knife and see if you can insert it in the crack past the bark. If it's solid just under the bark, it's not likely the crack goes all the way through.

Pictures, even with the "Tree Kote" covering the crack, would be helpful, Joe.

 

[beastmaster]

I would first make sure its not just a bark crack. Some times in heavy winds the tree flexes so much it'll cause the bark to split. Putting sealer in there can only cause more problems and prevent or delay the natural healing process. Vertical cracks you can live with if your really attached to that tree. Putting in a few braces would probably take care of it, but with out seeing it, its hard to say.
Sycamores grow pretty fast in the first several years of their lives, If it was me and the tree turns out to have a major crack, now would be the time to replace it with a tree that'll be safe that close to your house.
First make sure there even is a problem and its not just a stress crack in the bark. Beastmaster

 

[David (saltas)]

It's 20-25' from my house, so if it fell now it may not do much, if any, property damage. But 5 or 15 years from now, it will be a different story--if the tree is not viable.

Someone told me that the bark will heal, but the trunk will not heal inside. Consequently, the tree needs to be removed because eventually a strong wind will take it out. I don't mean to disrespect that person, but for me, removing this tree will be a big deal, so I want other opinions, whether they agree or not.

I guess the core issue is whether a Sycamore/London Planetree is capable of healing itself inside when split in this way.

Did this person that told you the trunk will not heal examine the tree?

no tree ever heals the heartwood
Don't take my word for it just Google "CODIT" If the tree is cracked through the center the crack will not heal.

Trees grow new layers over the top each time the tree has a new "flush"

 

[Area Man]

Thank you for the replies. The arborist who came out gave it a quick visual inspection. Based on what you are all saying, it was not enough. He even said as he looked at it that the pruning seal made it difficult. It seems it would be needed to peel the bark away and make sure the crack is really worth removing the entire tree.

I'm going to have someone else come look at it. Thank you for the advice once again.

 

[pdqdl]

Just be advised that most arborists are salesmen. They are there to sell you some sort of service. Multiple opinions can afford some security that they are selling you what you actually need.

 

[ch woodchuck]

Sounds a bit like a stress fracture.Said it was windy?So....Tree bends in the wind.Downwind side is compressing.Up wind side is trying to stretch.Trees don't stretch very well.Where those two forces meet,thats where the fracture occurs.Have seen this situation happen on branches and smaller spars.pdqd's idea about bolting is a sound one...My 2cents.

 

[treeseer]

Sounds like normal bark expansion; nothing to get excited about.

Pics are easy to post here.

 

[BlackOakTreeServ]

I have a ~6-year-old Sycamore/London Plane that is ~18 feet tall. I recently found a vertical line on it--a crack in the bark--about 10" long. The split appears on both sides and it's about 7' off the ground.

The split is not very wide and it's not torn open or anything. It looks sort of like what you'd expect if someone cut a gash in the tree with a solid knife. But I can only imagine that the appearance of the split on opposing sides indicates that this is a split that penetrates the entire tree.

Is this tree a lost cause, in need of removal? Or should I stake it and help it heal? Will it heal?

2, 10inch splits on both sides...the tree is done. as said, it will not heal its self...removing it now will save you in the long run, and keep family safe.

 

[ch woodchuck]

Bumping heads....This tree is 18 ft tall?Not very big...not very dangerous...And yes the tree wil protect itself by building a wall around the inner and outer crack.Bolting will stabilize the fractured area while the tree walls off the area against infection.Once the inner wall has stabilized, that inner area will be solid ''hard''wood on either side.Drilling through the trunk can create problems,by introducting pathogens through the drill holes It's very important that working tools are sanitized to lessen the chance of infection.Have used this method many times through the years.You like your tree?Your decision.

 

[Area Man]

THANK YOU to all who replied. I know it's not really feasible to give advice remotely but you did and I appreciate it.

OK the "Bolt it" side wins. I had a second arborist come out today and he advised bolting it. Didn't think the tree was unsalvageable or that it was a crack that went straight through. I mentioned peeling the bark back but he didn't want to, saying it could be harmful. Hey who am I to argue...

This wasn't me fishing for opinions until I found one I liked. This guy explained himself better and backed up his opinion better, so I took his advice. Good guy, too. Gave me free advice on doing it myself to save $100 over having him do it.

In any case I did it today--put two 1/2" bolts through it as best I could. I dub thee "Frankentree"!

Should I spray the bolt ends with pruning seal? Don't want nasty stuff working its way in there.

 

[ch woodchuck]

One last comment.I assume after drilling and inserting the bolt(s)A washer preceded the bolts on both ends?The suggested method is to put on the washer..scribe a line around the washer,then cut out the bark so that the washer is flush with the cambium..Outer bark is dead inner bark ( phloem)is alive.Setting the washer in this way will allow the tree to build a callus around the washer and bolt.IF done with the bark on,eventually the outer dead bark will rot and create a space for pathogen invasion.Generally''pruning seals are not used.others might disagree.If you do spray,make sure there are no gaps,or spaces where moisture can penetrate the area.Be nice to see a picture .....:>)

 

[Area Man]

I used bolts that are 1/2" in diameter and washers on each end that are 2". I did not cut out the bark. I wish you had replied one day earlier, ch woodchuck! :msp_sad:

 

[RacerX]

It probably nothing to worry about. Plane trees are more susceptible to splitting and cracking than other trees because they lack elasticity. It's not uncommon to see healthy looking plane trees with big hollow trunks. Here's a few photo's of a big hollow:

 

[treeseer]

Sweet pics; gorgeous tree--where is it?