Crankshaft bearings

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I have been working on a number of saws lately that I thought would benefit from new bearings. I had some trouble removing the bearings and oiler pump gear from my 910 Jonsered and received some good advice from a member here (thanks Jerry!)

I had to spend a few days in Hamilton, ON this week for work and took Jerry's advice to stop in a Princess Auto store and picked up this neat puller set up for $35 CND.

Oh, by the way, this is the crank shaft from my McCulloch 795 project currently in process along with the 840 I picked up a couple of weeks ago.

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Mark
 
About the bearings...

Let me go on to say that there is a good local bearing supplier in Waterloo, IA - Bearing Service/BDI. If you provide accurate dimensions they will determine the matching bearings and seals.

They are normally careful to even ask specifically regarding the application and will recommend a good bearing as opposed to a cheap Chinese one that might be a bit less expensive.

I have never had to wait more than 2 or 3 days for any bearings or seals to arrive.

Finally, I concluded some while ago that Stihl OEM parts were the best choice for my 066 project last summer.

Mark
 
Litefoot- The Princess Auto part number is 8074031 for the one I got that says 1-1/4 to 2" diameter capacity. It's their exclusive "Power Fist" brand.

Andy - Thanks for the tip on the good stuff at Grainger, since I only do a few of these in a year I suspect it will be a while before I wear this one out but I will keep that in mind.

Cuttinscott - Do you have a source for the protetctor or do you make your own? So far I've not had any problems with damage to the shaft but of course that potential always exists.

At this point most of the saws I am rebuilding are just for my use, many will never see more than a few tank fulls of fuel in a year since they are just for collecting and demonstration. For the ones that I will use extensively like the 066, I went ahead and got the OEM Stihl bearings and seals. For the old McCulloch's I doubt there are many OEM parts available out there.

Mark
 
Litefoot- The Princess Auto part number is 8074031 for the one I got that says 1-1/4 to 2" diameter capacity. It's their exclusive "Power Fist" brand.

Andy - Thanks for the tip on the good stuff at Grainger, since I only do a few of these in a year I suspect it will be a while before I wear this one out but I will keep that in mind.

Cuttinscott - Do you have a source for the protetctor or do you make your own? So far I've not had any problems with damage to the shaft but of course that potential always exists.

At this point most of the saws I am rebuilding are just for my use, many will never see more than a few tank fulls of fuel in a year since they are just for collecting and demonstration. For the ones that I will use extensively like the 066, I went ahead and got the OEM Stihl bearings and seals. For the old McCulloch's I doubt there are many OEM parts available out there.

Mark

Look at Item Number 2990269 (Ball Joint/U-Joint Remover Install Kit) the next time you are in Princess Auto. That looks like the same kit that I have and it contains a protector.

If you google crankshaft protector cap you will get a few good hits. An image search will probably get you some good visual references.
 
No problem using the puller without a protector , I have pulled dozens of bearings with this puller and never damaged a crank end. I can make protectors and have a couple in the chainsaw tool box but seldom ever use them. If you use a battery impact with that puller the bearings just slide off easily, spray a little lube on the crank and inner race, that makes it even easier.
Pioneerguy600
 
No problem using the puller without a protector , I have pulled dozens of bearings with this puller and never damaged a crank end. I can make protectors and have a couple in the chainsaw tool box but seldom ever use them. If you use a battery impact with that puller the bearings just slide off easily, spray a little lube on the crank and inner race, that makes it even easier.
Pioneerguy600

Hmmmm, sorry but my experience is that stubborn clutches, flywheels, or bearings have lead indeed to crank damage caused by the puller tip. Me bad maybe, but I recommend also to use some kind of protection. I now leave the nut on and use a piece of metallic spacer to protect the crank end. A new crank on an oldie is too difficult to find.:)
 
Hmmmm, sorry but my experience is that stubborn clutches, flywheels, or bearings have lead indeed to crank damage caused by the puller tip. Me bad maybe, but I recommend also to use some kind of protection. I now leave the nut on and use a piece of metallic spacer to protect the crank end. A new crank on an oldie is too difficult to find.:)

Roland, you have to take them on a case by case basis, old saws that have set a long time especially in damp conditions would automatically get a protector cup set on the crank end. Chainsaws that are just in for servicing that have been in use almost constantly will usually come off easily, I guess I get complacent in my experience and ability to tell if the part is pulling easily, if it is going to pull hard it is very easy to back the puller bolt off and insert a cup, the battery powered impact I now use does not have enough torque to break a crank. If the puller requires more torque than what the bat impact provides then a cup would be put on and an air impact gun used to finalize the removal. That`s the beauty of knowing your tools and your own methods, experience will usually tell what is required to safely perform a task. IMO.
Pioneerguy600
 

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