Crooked cut due to teeth length or rakers height?

[machinisttx]

Tooth length and tooth height are related. The tooth becomes shorter as it's sharpened, and unless the rakers are filed to match, it will remove less wood. This doesn't really matter as long as all the cutters and rakers are about the same. It does matter when one side, for whatever reason, is removing more wood than the other. The bar rails also need to be of even height, or even a perfect chain will cut arcs instead of straight.

 

[jdind]

What do I think?? I "think" I know my business

It has to balance in order to balance you need all cutters sharp and all depths and angles consistant. IF your cutters are not filed past the rivit when this can be achieved with a proper raker gauge.
Not a two tooth contact gauge but a single tooth contact gauge.
If all your teeth were even and past the rivit then to equal a new chain with a depth of .030 you would have to take you rakers down about .064 I believe was the math.
It's the teetor totter effect.
When the cutters go into attack mode on the new end of the rivit it goes towards the wood. On the power head end of the rivit it hides. So obviously I don't mess with short teeth. I always wear my drivers long before that. It's just a revolution thing.
So if your sprocket is good along with guides, tention, finesse and keeping your revs up aproching brush and limbs and all of a sudden the chain starts to come off a noticeable difference one day from the next then its had its time.

Next is things got to be true
As the chain goes, if its balanced and true it cuts strait and its clean of pitch.
Good quality chain will stay true
I am talking about no bending of teeth or rakers prematurely.
Then the bar has to be true
Best way is to keep it true is all the above^^^^
There, now you know what to do to hand file for big wood. Think you can?

Is this some kind of weird computer-generated response?
Either that, or I've got a lot more to learn about saws, because I couldn't make sense of it at all...