What's your preferred method for getting logs cut in consistent lengths? I never worried about being too precise in the past, but my new stove is a lot smaller. I have a top loading stove that is 15" wide at the top opening. The specs say it will hold up to 20", but you have to angle it in to really pack them in and once it is half full and hot you don't have room so I'm thinking of doing all my logs now at 15" to make it easy.
Cutting logs in consistent lengths?
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OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker
I personally do not use one, but I have tried one and it's quick and efficient.
I personally do not use one, but I have tried one and it's quick and efficient.
zogger
Tree Freak
You mean marking the logs? Numerous ways, you can start with just a tape measure and some chalk! they make commercial log markers as well, with wheels, etc and some guys here make a PVC pipe contraption that has a little slit at one end and bleeds marking chalk poweder.
Fastest is two ways..just develop an eye and get close enough If you or real actually practice and check it weith a tape or stick, youll get it pretty easy.
second is, use your limbing saw. I fell with a big saw, then immediately switch to a small saw. some have 14 inch bars, some 16. I use the bar length as a quick eyeball guide to back up my normal guesstimates. works fine, start at the butt end, make some little test cuts, walk it over that tip bar, do it again, etc. Walk it right down the trunk takes like 60 seconds tops to walk down a large log. But I only ever actually measure the big trunk with that method, or a tape measure and a mark, everything else is a fast eyeball. I start cutting out at the branches, without removing the branches from the tree, as much as possible, and work my way back down to larger diameter then larger saws..
I think the worst way is to quick get nuts and drop all the big branches before you cut the smalls off. I cringe when I see vids of guys doing that, just trashing all that good firewood. Makes a much bigger mess, more dangerous as you are fighting your way thyrough big branch crap on the ground where you want to walk, and you wind up wasting wood and/or having a lot of difficult cuts that could have been easy.
Same deal here, top and front loading, the top just swings up, so I can be off a little and get atter or longer pieces and it will still fit, although in practice, conicidently verified yesterday while cutting, my eyeball is pretty good, made some marks then ran the tape against them, half inch either way was the spread, and thats moving *fast*, close enough for personal firewood. I I was selling it I would get one of those mingo markers or make the plastic contraption, etc..
They make actual logging tape measures, but I don't have one.
Fastest is two ways..just develop an eye and get close enough If you or real actually practice and check it weith a tape or stick, youll get it pretty easy.
second is, use your limbing saw. I fell with a big saw, then immediately switch to a small saw. some have 14 inch bars, some 16. I use the bar length as a quick eyeball guide to back up my normal guesstimates. works fine, start at the butt end, make some little test cuts, walk it over that tip bar, do it again, etc. Walk it right down the trunk takes like 60 seconds tops to walk down a large log. But I only ever actually measure the big trunk with that method, or a tape measure and a mark, everything else is a fast eyeball. I start cutting out at the branches, without removing the branches from the tree, as much as possible, and work my way back down to larger diameter then larger saws..
I think the worst way is to quick get nuts and drop all the big branches before you cut the smalls off. I cringe when I see vids of guys doing that, just trashing all that good firewood. Makes a much bigger mess, more dangerous as you are fighting your way thyrough big branch crap on the ground where you want to walk, and you wind up wasting wood and/or having a lot of difficult cuts that could have been easy.
Same deal here, top and front loading, the top just swings up, so I can be off a little and get atter or longer pieces and it will still fit, although in practice, conicidently verified yesterday while cutting, my eyeball is pretty good, made some marks then ran the tape against them, half inch either way was the spread, and thats moving *fast*, close enough for personal firewood. I I was selling it I would get one of those mingo markers or make the plastic contraption, etc..
They make actual logging tape measures, but I don't have one.
Ductape
Addicted to ArboristSite
I put a mark on the bar (or clutch cover) at the length I need. Cut, turn the saw sideways, eyeball where the next cut needs to be made.... repeat. I also have a top loading stove where the opening is not full width. May I suggest you cut your wood at more like 18" ? I think you'll find you can fill it pretty close to the top with 18s, and the longer wood will give you better burn times than 14 or 15 inch wood.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
Like zogger said, there are a few different ways to do this. Up until lately, I have been using a stick and inverted marking paint. Just recently, I made a device called the tap and cut. tap and cut firewood marker instructions. 5 BUCKS.mp4 - YouTube
I'm going to let the fire burn out tomorrow and then measure what would be the best fit.
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/214868.htm
Had a thread on this last month, check it out.
Had a thread on this last month, check it out.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
First logs I cut this season went long (20"...my stove can take them, that's just longer then I need usually).
Then I started cutting very consistent at 15-1/2"
Then I did about a cord at 12" WTF, over?
Last cord I sucked up my pride when I bucked it up I went and took my tape measure and a piece of chalk and just marked 'em out at 16".
This was the end of a load of logs, so I would just go around the pile marking a bunch, go around bucking, then return to clear the cut pieces out of my way and mark the next batch, then go around with the saw again.
Then I started cutting very consistent at 15-1/2"
Then I did about a cord at 12" WTF, over?
Last cord I sucked up my pride when I bucked it up I went and took my tape measure and a piece of chalk and just marked 'em out at 16".
This was the end of a load of logs, so I would just go around the pile marking a bunch, go around bucking, then return to clear the cut pieces out of my way and mark the next batch, then go around with the saw again.
zogger
Tree Freak
No, that site was down. Hollow pvc, one end with the cap has a slit in it to let the chalk powder out. the thing in the middle is the handle, then it is just the length you want to cut at. Fill it wherever, with another cap to seal it.
Set the non leaky side down, roll it and tap it with the slit side, some chalk comes out. Move over to there, re tap. thats it, real simple design. the thing in the middle is the handle or more reservoir for snap line chalk.
Big_Al
ArboristSite Guru
I've used a 15" plastic stick with chalk or a hatchet to mark it, also have a Mingo marker. After the first few cords I could usually get pretty close +- 1" just eyeballing it. Saves time & less stuff to carry along.
I've used a Mingo Marker and haven't made a Tap-And-Cut yet. I made Shapie lines on my bar for 16" and 18". After measuring one or two logs with the bar marks, I usually just eyeball the rest of the cuts.
tooold
ArboristSite Operative
I give the wife a 16" stick with a piece of chalk and let her go at it. 
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
I have the Mingo, sometimes more effort than what it is worth. It is good unless you have a thin/smooth bark tree, then the wheel tends to slide every once in a while.
I like just marking the bar.
I like just marking the bar.
darkbyrd
Forest Hugger
no, it is a dead website
The Mingo Marker, I love this thing! I have the other wheel sizes too, now my wood is always the exact same length and it is simple and rugged. Wish I got it years ago. I like the lime green color too . :biggrin:
Cut by numbers!!
I like to use a precut stick and some paint. I mark up most of the tree while doing the thinking on what to cut etc. Then I can go to town, then or next week!:hmm3grin2orange:
I like to use a precut stick and some paint. I mark up most of the tree while doing the thinking on what to cut etc. Then I can go to town, then or next week!:hmm3grin2orange:
I'm single, I guess I better go find a wife to mark my trees thenI give the wife a 16" stick with a piece of chalk and let her go at it.
Fred Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
My guide bar is 18" and an exact 16" from the bumper dog tips to the roller tip. While bucking I simply turn the saw sideways and spot for the next cut. Makes for a consistent round every time.
