cutting logs that are larger than your bar

[Turkeyslayer]

For any tree that is just a bit longer than the bar, I will start the cut with the powerhead of the saw ontop of the log. Swinging the bar down towards the ground being mindful of the tip and ground until I have cut enough of the dia. to be able to pull the saw back to horizontal and drop it straight through. Most of the time you can tell when getting close to cutting though by the colour of the chips (they will be darker when finishing the cut through the bark).

 

[Straightgrain]

Yep

 

[turnkey4099]

Kickback while the bar is buried is usually not a problem as long as the cut is proceeding.

Keep your chain sharp.

If the saw won't pull itself through the cut, it needs to be sharped.

Cutting crooked, even slightly - sharp the chain. Nothing will irritate you more than to have to go aroundthe other side and then your cut doesn't match up due to a 'curve'.

Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again.

Most logs can be cut from one side using that technique. Some, if you are lucky enough to get into the 'big stuff', will need to be worked from both sides to finish the cut.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Kickback while the bar is buried is usually not a problem as long as the cut is proceeding.

Keep your chain sharp.

If the saw won't pull itself through the cut, it needs to be sharped.

Cutting crooked, even slightly - sharp the chain. Nothing will irritate you more than to have to go aroundthe other side and then your cut doesn't match up due to a 'curve'.

Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again.

Most logs can be cut from one side using that technique. Some, if you are lucky enough to get into the 'big stuff', will need to be worked from both sides to finish the cut.

Harry K

 

[beerman6]

:monkey: You can say THAT again...:greenchainsaw:

 

[turnkey4099]

:monkey: You can say THAT again...:greenchainsaw:

Yah. Usually I get a warning when I double post. Must have been a hang up somewhere as I didn't get the notice and no indication that the first one went.

Harry K

 

[wkpoor]

I'm going to aproach this from a completely different angle.
First off you don't need to buy wedges. If you have a band saw make big long ones out of oak scraps. They will take alot of punishment, won't hurt your saw and give alot more leverage to pry aprt big rounds.
Next since these are big ones, your first cut will be from the end (noodling). Depending on size you might just quarter it or if it is a bigger round in thirds or for really big ones noodle into forths. Then make your cross cut about 16-20 inches in from the end. Go down to within and inch of the ground. When the bar is below the top insert the big oak wedge. After you complete the cut use the wedge to drive aprt the round. roll 90 degress and noodle the same as the first ones. When your done you'll have 4,9,or 16 easy to pick up pieces. Continue to the end of the log. Easy as 1,2,3.
Oh I almost forgot, this goes fast and easy with a Solo 681 and 21" bar hehehe!

 

[Circle B MN]

The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it. Here's a good resource for people just getting started:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm

Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.

The stainless steel bar holding my foot together agrees with this... Always know where your bar tip is and where your limbs are in relation to it.

 

[wavefreak]

Regarding kick back, I always try to position myself so that if it does kick back my head isn't in the path of where it's going to go. All I have to to is envision the thing popping back and hitting me right between the eyes and remember to I move my head to the side.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

It is best to try to keep the elbows locked straight whenever possible, that way in the event of a kick-back the inertia will drive the saw up and over your head instead of bending your elbows and having the bar come at your face/neck.

 

[7sleeper]

...Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! ....

Excellent rule Buddha! I'd like to rep ja but have to spread around a little bit first.

Great info BuddhaKat! I had my first experience this past weekend with a tree pinching my saw and not being able to get it out (I saw it happening and couldn't get it out fast enough). :censored: Still a major noob here and have only one saw. To make matters worse, I don't have any wedges. So, have to call my wife to bring me the ax so that I can chop down the tree... left-hand no less! :bang: After some time, I got enough pressure released and was able to get the saw out and finish up with it. Having said all that... wedges are on my list to get ASAP and I'll start being more prepared before heading out to cut.......

That happened to me also in the beginning. Luckily I had a crowbar with enough leverage to slip in a piece of wood so I could finish cutting!

7

 

[Wood Doctor]

For any tree that is just a bit longer than the bar, I will start the cut with the powerhead of the saw ontop of the log. Swinging the bar down towards the ground being mindful of the tip and ground until I have cut enough of the dia. to be able to pull the saw back to horizontal and drop it straight through. Most of the time you can tell when getting close to cutting though by the colour of the chips (they will be darker when finishing the cut through the bark).

+1. That's how I do it. Always works. Excellent description. I stop the saw when 2" from the ground and roll the log to finish her off, assuming there is nothing supporting the log but the flat ground.

I once told a newby, "Never cut the ground with your saw. The chain will become dull almost immediately."

He said, "So, that's why I've been taking it in every other day to sharpen it. And here I thought the wood was dulling the chain."

 

[LAH]

As been said, saw down each side. It's not hard if you're careful. Saw kick is something that happens. My Stihl's have a brake and have never failed.

Special tools...........wedge and something to turn the log with unless you're lucky enough to have said log off ground.

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

As been said, saw down each side. It's not hard if you're careful. Saw kick is something that happens. My Stihl's have a brake and have never failed.

Special tools...........wedge and something to turn the log with unless you're lucky enough to have said log off ground.

My stihl saw has a brake also, but in your photo the stacked logs have also hidden hazardous logs to cut regarding kickbacks correct?
That small log behind the log you are cutting in the photo could cause a kickback if the top tip of the saw happens to contact the small log as you cut into the front log. Am I not correct?
So you also have to watch the placement of logs around the log you are cutting.

 

[LAH]

My stihl saw has a brake also, but in your photo the stacked logs have also hidden hazardous logs to cut regarding kickbacks correct?
That small log behind the log you are cutting in the photo could cause a kickback if the top tip of the saw happens to contact the small log as you cut into the front log. Am I not correct?
So you also have to watch the placement of logs around the log you are cutting.

:agree2: course you're correct.:agree2: That's why I said: Saw kick is something that happens.

Over the years I've cut tons of wood on log landings. The culls were thrown by the loader into "jams" with logs of every size laying in every direction. Some you could cut from top to bottom, some from bottom to top. Some you had to bore. At times a saw is going to kick.

If you're just beginning your life as a saw hand I suggest staying away from jams and rapid cut chains. As I said Saw kick is something that happens and the chain doesn't care what it cuts.

 

[sloth9669]

hey folks,

I hooked up with a local tree service who may dump loads of wood in my yard from time to time. some of the pieces I've seen when I pick up stuff from their shop are HUGE.

I have a 455 Rancher with a 20" bar and am not an expert cutter. most of my experience with the saw is cutting up logs 18" diameter and smaller.

What is the technique and what are the tools for dealing with really large pieces of trunk that may be in excess of 24"?

Thank you!

well my answer is more chains more gas and more cutting just go nuts till its in small pieces and have fun doing it just keep cutting!!

 

[bowtechmadman]

Most important part of the saw is the tip of that bar...always know where it is and where it's going to end up.

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

Most important part of the saw is the tip of that bar...always know where it is and where it's going to end up.

Yes

 

[Dr. Hackemoff]

Good thread going here...another couple suggestions:

A. NEVER (read as never ever ever) touch the chain or try to remove an obstruction (like a piece of bark lodged between the clutch cover and sprocket) when the saw is running, even if the chain doesn't move at idle. I've been sorely tempted at times, and I can see others tempted too. Shut off the saw at the first sign of trouble.

B. Try not to cut alone, BUT keep bystanders/helpers at least eight feet away at all times, even if you bind your saw in a cut (do not have them assist!). I think I remember a guy here in Minnesota who recently and accidentally killed his helper/wife with a chainsaw (I don't know the details).

C. Do not start the saw if you are tired, drunk, angry, sad, or otherwise not fresh and focused. I have cut under all the scenarios above and almost paid dearly for it on multiple occasions. If I'm not up for it, the wood will patiently wait another day.

Sorry to be a worry wart on the discipline, but let's all keep the warm red stuff inside our bodies.

Happy cutting all. WINTER'S COMING

 

[woodlumn]

Thanks, this is all great info. And thanks for the helpful .pdf back there as well.

I would love a little clarification on this though...for some reason, I can't quite visualize it:

Start with saw level on top of log. Keep power head in that location and rotate tip of bar down. Cut until tip is near the ground. Now begin pulling power head down and towards you (saw should not need any force if the chain is sharp) - sorta rotating it around the tip of the bar. If the log is big enough, I will rotat the bar tip down until the saw is almost verticl and continue the cut in that position until I am sure that the bar will reach all the way to meet that cut when it it horizontal again.