Cutting up fallen tree supported on its limbs

[Crashcup]

Hi all, I have a red oak that came down in a storm, that I'm not sure of the safest way to get the main trunk down to the ground.

A quick crude sketch, hope it gets the idea across. The tree fell most of the way, and the weight is now supported by a few large limbs. I started by cutting off free limbs that were not supporting the weight of the trunk. Once all those are cleared away, it leaves me with something like this. Almost like a tripod. This is about a 22" dia trunk near the base, and the part left supported by the branches is maybe 18-20 feet long. So it's got some mass.

I had another like this a few years ago. On that one I tried to judge which branch was supporting the least weight and cut that first. Then when it was down to 2 branches, I cut the one that was at more of an angle... cut a notch on the compression side, then cut in on the tension side until it was just about ready to go. Then finished the cut from up on top of a shed with a pole pruner. Didn't want to be anywhere near underneath that trunk when it went down. (That was fun to watch from up on the shed).

Now, I'm wondering if there's a safer way to do this. And I don't have a higher working spot like that shed I used for the previous one. I want to avoid bucking the trunk into smaller sections, because I want to saw it up with my alaskan mill, so I want 6-8 foot sections if possible.
If I were to cut somewhere up in the middle of the trunk, I think I'd need to cut a notch in the top (compression side), then back-cut from below. But that puts me right there near the trunk. And it seems like it's going to have to be a really big notch on top to allow enough clearance for it to fall.

How would you guys handle this?

TIA,
Keith

 

[Hoowasat]

You sound like you understand the forces in play. That's good. Without describing various types of specialized saw cuts, can you attach a rope and pull/winch it over to where the branches are no longer supporting the weight?

 

[ATH]

take it in small sections (the supporting limbs) and be VERY conscience of what direction the log is going to want to roll with each cut and be on the opposite side...it can be hard to predict which cut is going to be "the one" that takes enough off to allow it to roll.

Also, know that some of those limbs you think are under compression are actually under tension so watch things move as you cut. Have wedges and an ax handy.

 

[Crashcup]

Hey, thank you for the replies. I forgot about something until today... my tractor may come in very handy here. (42 hp utility tractor)

On one side of the tree is a river bank, and the other side, near the base is a small lean-to shed, so I don't think I can pull to the side and try to roll it off its "legs".

But I have clear space out in front in the direction of the fall. One thought is to hook up a choker chain to one leg, then cut a couple of notches above that to weaken it, then pull with the tractor. Hopefully that would pull the leg out and snap it off at the notches. Repeat for each leg.

Does that sound like it may work? I suppose if I cut notches a few feet above the chain, instead of way up where the limb meets the trunk, that would minimize the chance of rolling?

 

[ATH]

If you cut the notches, you can use a tongue and groove cut:
*Plunge straight through the middle. Maybe widen that a little depending on how much diameter you have.
*Move about 6" up the limb/log. Cut in from either side (2 cuts on opposite sides of the log) cuts that are parallel to the first plunge. These should slightly overlap the edge of the plunged cut.

The wood will still hold in compression or tension, but when you put a lateral force on it with the tractor, it will snap while you are well out of the way. (The two pieces will look like a tongue and groove that fit together...hence the name)

 

[Crashcup]

If you cut the notches, you can use a tongue and groove cut:
*Plunge straight through the middle. Maybe widen that a little depending on how much diameter you have.
*Move about 6" up the limb/log. Cut in from either side (2 cuts on opposite sides of the log) cuts that are parallel to the first plunge. These should slightly overlap the edge of the plunged cut.

The wood will still hold in compression or tension, but when you put a lateral force on it with the tractor, it will snap while you are well out of the way. (The two pieces will look like a tongue and groove that fit together...hence the name)

Okay. Interesting cut. So for my purpose, the vertical sides of the groove would be running in the same direction as I'll be pulling with the tractor it looks like?

 

[ATH]

If a limb is vertical, the cuts would be horizontal. The resulting tongue would be vertical (I don't think it matters if it is on top or bottom). If you are pulling to the north, for example, the cuts would be running north/south not east/west.

 

[Crashcup]

If a limb is vertical, the cuts would be horizontal. The resulting tongue would be vertical (I don't think it matters if it is on top or bottom). If you are pulling to the north, for example, the cuts would be running north/south not east/west.

Okay thanks, that's what I was thinking.

I've been busy after work every day this week cutting up a neighbor's storm trees for the logs/firewood, but by the weekend I'll be ready to take on this bad boy.

 

[Crashcup]

Well, this tree did exactly as I expected... by not responding as I expected. The limbs didn't break where I had made relief cuts. And on the 2nd limb I pulled, the whole limb broke off and the tree rolled over. But, all's well that ends well. We stayed clear of the tree when pulling and nothing or nobody got damaged. Got three nice big logs to cut up for lumber.

 

[Hoowasat]

Glad to hear nothing & nobody was hurt.