David Bradley - Gear Drive Project

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Here's my next project saw. I got it from Rob, Stihl 041S, at the GTG. It's moel # 917.60029, has 77cc, and was introduced in 1965. LINK He picked it up at auction for................$12:clap: It turns over and seems to have good compression, but I'm not getting any spark. It could be anything at this point. The spark plug itself is ancient. I'm undecided as to whether I want to just clean it up or paint it. Which would be more appropriate for an old saw like this?

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I like to see them au natural

Its the same with me on hit and miss engines. Id rather look at one with the original paint or rust than those with the slick bondo clear coat paint job. Its a personal preference I know.

Ive got two DB saws...watch yourself in a log with one. That gear reduction is a different animal. There is no give in a bind.

You can get a manual for these saws on ebay. Its a reprint but its pretty good.
 
I think if you can make it run that this one would be a good candidate for a through cleaning and preservation of the original finish. It's in too good a shape to tear it all apart for the sake of a shiny paint job and it would loose all its character.
 
Nice project, Brad.

Again, it comes to a personal choice.

I personally prefer to keep them in their original, complete state with a good cleaning, and make them run.

But, a like new restored saw can be a real beauty also. Look up the Mall GP retored by Buzz Sawyer, that was a fantastic restoration. But if you restore it, you have to go all the way, just like you did with the other ones, and parts for this kind of saws are not always easy to find, ....and patience not being your strongest point ....:pumpkin2:
 
....and patience not being your strongest point ....:pumpkin2:

:cheers: :cheers:


Sounds like the consensus is to leave it original. One thing I like about that option is that it won't ever bother me to get it dirty. It's a pain trying to take care of a shiny paint job on a restoration saw. It'd be fun to run this old thing.
 
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Well, I'm no expert either but I'm sure that saw has breaker points and that would be my first suspect in a weak/no spark situation.

If it were mine I think I would pull the flywheel, clean the points with fine sandpaper, lubricate and reassemble for a test, with a new spark plug to eliminate that variable. If that dosen't get it then I'm sure others here will be able to help diagnose the condenser and coil because I haven't a clue anymore!
 
Well, I'm no expert either but I'm sure that saw has breaker points and that would be my first suspect in a weak/no spark situation.

If it were mine I think I would pull the flywheel, clean the points with fine sandpaper, lubricate and reassemble for a test, with a new spark plug to eliminate that variable. If that dosen't get it then I'm sure others here will be able to help diagnose the condenser and coil because I haven't a clue anymore!

Good advise. There's also a kill switch with exposed wiring. It's an oily mess, so I'll want to check that out and make sure it's not going to ground.
 
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The first order of business will be to sort out the ignition. Any pointers there? I'm very weak on my electronics.

There are no electronics! Just conventional points... Points open to collapse the coil primary flux, induces current into the secondary to make voltage and spark. Condensor stops the points from arcing. Condensor is shot? Points dirty? wires falling to pieces?


Take almost any old Stihl or whatever service manual and troubleshoot your DB the same way. Your coil primary and secondary resistance measurements will be different, but close enough for you to determine if it's basically o.k.


Paint? I just gave away one exactly like yours that was like new under the dust! Get it running, sell it, a buy one that looks better, start again.
 
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David Bradley

I have my grandfathers model 360, close to yours but older, the coil cracked, I got one from a brigs or tecum. and just swapped it onto the laminations, worked fine that slow moving 1/2 chain is very different than what most guys are used to. and wear ear plugs they are LOUD!!!
 
Ditto the Loud part

They are much louder than a modern saw..more like a dirt bike without a muffler.
 
I've got a nice later model DB blue/white paint with an amatuer repaint (not by me and not as nice a job as you do) 95cc 7hp direct drive, runs strong no defcts whatsoever aside from the not-so-nice repaint. I would certainly be willing to trade for something big, old and serviceable though it would not have to look good as long as nothinbg is cracked. BTW isn't there some significance to the David Bradley name. Good luck with the gear drive.
 
Hey, maybe if you get her running you can race THE WIDOWMAKER (Lancaster 318). Wouldn't that be a hoot? I'm embarassed at that 27sec time. Next time I'll have to dig in and pry to use some of that low end. Keep us posted.
 
Hey, maybe if you get her running you can race THE WIDOWMAKER (Lancaster 318). Wouldn't that be a hoot? I'm embarassed at that 27sec time. Next time I'll have to dig in and pry to use some of that low end. Keep us posted.

Sounds like some fun. I'd like to see more old and unique saws at the GTGs. I'm glad you brought yours. Perhaps next time I won't bring so many saws and I'll get to check out others stuff more.
 

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