David Bradley - Gear Drive Project

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I've got a nice later model DB blue/white paint with an amatuer repaint (not by me and not as nice a job as you do) 95cc 7hp direct drive, runs strong no defcts whatsoever aside from the not-so-nice repaint. I would certainly be willing to trade for something big, old and serviceable though it would not have to look good as long as nothinbg is cracked. BTW isn't there some significance to the David Bradley name. Good luck with the gear drive.

On the BD name. I seem to remember he bought Aston-Martin and the DB, as in DB4 is named after him.
 
The first order of business will be to sort out the ignition. Any pointers there? I'm very weak on my electronics.

Brad,
I'm working on a similar saw now - model 60051. Had to put it aside for a couple months - other priorities. As for the points, they probably have some corrosion from setting. Take them out and file smooth and flat with a clean, sharp single cut file - don't use sandpaper, it can leave a residue that will prevent contact between the points. Reassemble out of the saw and hold them up to a light to make sure the contacts mate evenly. You can bend the tip slightly to adjust. Chances are the condenser and coil are fine unless visibly deteriorated or damaged.

Mine had a broken piston ring so I bought a 60028 for the rings and piston. If I have any parts left that I know I won't use I'll let you know. The paint and decals are in good shape mine so I will probably leave as is.
You'll probably need a new diaphragm in the carb. I was able to find a kit as well as just the diaphram on Ebay. I think I searched under Tecumseh parts - I'll check my ebay history and PM you.

My original piston has a cut-away on the intake side. I have to cut the 60028 piston to match. The sears website still has parts lists you can download - pdf. files. Most parts aren't available but at least you can get the right numbers for a search.

I was able to reverse the chain sprocket gear to get unworn teeth under the chain. You may need a two jaw gear puller to do this - and don't catch the washer behind the gear. It fits behind woodruff key that drives the sprocket.

If you run into any questions, please feel free to contact me. BTW - I may need some pointers on the 08S - hopefully my next project - if I can get my brother to bring it back someday. He loves that thing!

Belgian - thanks again for the compliment on the GP. It's on a shelf now next to my Wright 520.
 
WOW Buzz you just answered the question I was faced with last night. I was putting the gear back on after I took out the drive gear and figured the only place the washer could go was to be captured between the bearing and the key. I can't wait to get my DB up and running. I primed it with a shot of mix and it fired up so good things there. -
 
Some good info here guys. I've had other priorities and haven't had a chance to mess with it yet. Yes, I know that surprises most of you:clap: I enjoy reading about the work you're doing on your oldies, so keep it coming.
 
I have two of these for sale in the FS section. Whats the going rate for a beast? I was asking $75 but am open to offers. I figured these would disappear in a day, but no takers so far. I just picked em up to move em on to another addict.

Could I be charged with distributing?
 
IT LIVES!!!

It had no spark. I began by disabling the kill switch. Nogo. So off came the flywheel. The problem was the points. There was a white corrosion buildup covering the surface of both points. I cleaned them up and now have a fat blue spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder and she popped right to life but didn't run for long. I figured why even try. Let's get that carb off there and cleaned up. With the help of a razor blade I was able to remove and salvage the diaphragm. After a good cleaning I had it all back together. It runs like a top! This crazy thing will idle as low as 1600 RPMs. If I peak it out, it will run nearly 9,000RPMs. I tuned it rich to about 7,300 and that's where I left it.

I checked compression while still warm. It was only about 110 psi. Is that normal for this vintage of saw? It runs great. The piston, rings, and cylinder looks excellent through the exhaust port.

I also cleaned out both tanks and oil line. Everything's in excellent condition. No rust. My next step is to get some engine cleaner and give it a good bath. I'll then clean up the bar, sharpen the chain, and see how she cuts.

I need help locating an air filter. It won't run with the old filter on it. It's a fiber drum with one open end against the carb and a metal disc over the other with a bolt through it securing it to the carb. It measures 2 3/16" OD and 1 7/8" long. The walls are 3/16" thick but that dimension is not real critical. It does have to be substantial enough to be tightened down though.
 
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I had a DB gear drive and I used a filter from a Stihl dealer. I think it was for a concrete saw but not sure if it ws for a stihl, just that I got it from the S dealer. Bought it maybe 8 or 10 years back, so must be a concrete saw of 98 or older, if that helps at all. I think I drilled the hole in the closed end for teh bolt, butnot sure. My saw had a large metal disc maybe 2 inches in diameter on top of teh filter end, but the original filter had a closed end under it like you mentioned. The new one fit really well, minimal mods as I recall.


k
 
I also remember it used a chain that cost $70 or something. Thinking it was half inch, dont' think .404

almost no muffler, sounded like a cessna airplane not like a two cycle screamer, vibrated, heavy, and ran so slow I could see the painted master link go around.

I have great appreciation for the old timers, and fully appreicate it was way better than crosscut saw, but no further nostalgia for 'the good old days'.
We have it so good, arguing over the difference between a 12 lb saw to a 11.999 lb saw and both cutting twice as much wood as the old anchors.

k
 
Here's my Strunk

Here is a photo of my son helping me start the Strunk Shur Kut, looks a lot like your David Bradley. The Fairbanks-Morse recoil starter has some issues so we just use a rope around the starter drum. Have to remember to spin in "backwards" though as it is a gear drive and the engine rotation is opposite the chain rotation.

Have fun...

Mark

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I thought this saw was rather lame till I sunk the dogs in and levered it into a big log (not this one), it is slow but it is also unstoppable.

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Oh yeah, it's also pretty loud with that low restriction "muffler".
 
IT LIVES!!!

It had no spark. I began by disabling the kill switch. Nogo. So off came the flywheel. The problem was the points. There was a white corrosion buildup covering the surface of both points. I cleaned them up and now have a fat blue spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder and she popped right to life but didn't run for long. I figured why even try. Let's get that carb off there and cleaned up. With the help of a razor blade I was able to remove and salvage the diaphragm. After a good cleaning I had it all back together. It runs like a top! This crazy thing will idle as low as 1600 RPMs. If I peak it out, it will run nearly 9,000RPMs. I tuned it rich to about 7,300 and that's where I left it.

I checked compression while still warm. It was only about 110 psi. Is that normal for this vintage of saw? It runs great. The piston, rings, and cylinder looks excellent through the exhaust port.

I also cleaned out both tanks and oil line. Everything's in excellent condition. No rust. My next step is to get some engine cleaner and give it a good bath. I'll then clean up the bar, sharpen the chain, and see how she cuts.

I need help locating an air filter. It won't run with the old filter on it. It's a fiber drum with one open end against the carb and a metal disc over the other with a bolt through it securing it to the carb. It measures 2 3/16" OD and 1 7/8" long. The walls are 3/16" thick but that dimension is not real critical. It does have to be substantial enough to be tightened down though.


Great to hear it's running, Brad! Had the same white coating on my points. Are you saying the old AF element is clogged? I think I soaked mine in solvent or detergent for a while, then blew it out. Seems pretty open, but I still question how that material lets enough air through.
 
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