Depth gauge question

[p575]

I'm not new to saws, but I've never been really good at sharpening chains, I had access to an oregon sharpener at work so I used that. I'm trying to get the hang of doing it manually with a file now. I just came into about 40 acres of hardwood tops so that's what I'll be cutting for a while. Most of the stuff is less than 8 inches in diameter. While cutting today, I noticed that I was having to exert a fair amount of pressure on the bar to get it to cut, I know the cutters were at least reasonably sharp, I'm assuming I need to lower the rakers, I know how to do that, but I don't have a gauge, and I was wondering what size to get. The saw is an MS390 with a 20" bar, but as I said, I'll be cutting smaller stuff, so I would think I could get more aggressive with the raker setting, is that incorrect?

On a side note, how small of stuff will ya'll leave whole (i.e. not split)?

 

[Trx250r180]

try 2 swipes on each raker with a flat file ,then do a test cut see if helps ,if you have a strait edge ,or a speedy square ,can set it across the cutters on one side ,and measure the depth with a feeler guage ,stock is about .025 ,round chain could get as aggressive as .030 ,but try to stay closer to .025

 

[sundance]

On a side note, how small of stuff will ya'll leave whole (i.e. not split)?

A lot depends on seasoning and your stove. If it will be well seasoned and works in the stove, I wouldn't split below about 5-6" diameter. If the stove likes smaller wood or it won't be well seasoned I'd split down to 4".

 

[olyman]

as brian said....ANDDDDDDDDD, If one stroke is good, three definetly wont make it better!!!! it will grab like mad,,and you will be fighting that chain for a while...............

 

[chucker]

I file the rakers by sight about every 3rd sharpening, 2 swipes with a flat file usually does it. when it grabs a bite and you have to hold on or go over the log you know you did something right!

 

[Philbert]

know how to do that, but I don't have a gauge, and I was wondering what size to get.

I use the basic Oregon depth gauge tool, with the hole in the center. It works with all chains. I can usually find them for four or five dollars, or under $10 for a kit with a flat file and handle.



Using a gauge is more consistent than counting file strokes. It's possible to apply more or less pressure with a file.

0.025 inches is the standard offset for most chains. Start there: you can always take more off, but it's hard to put it back on. It is also recommended to round over the shape of the depth gauge to match the factory profile, to eliminate any point that might dig in.

Some folks will chime in soon advocating for "progressive" depth gauge tools. This is another approach. The progressive depth gauge tools do not work with all chains - some are chain specific.

Philbert

 

[melloyello]

Stihl 2 in 1 file is the way to go. You sharpen and set the rakers at the same time.