Details pictures of Alsakan MKIII

[820wards]

Good work Jerry. I just retired from 34 years of working with steel and I know that this will weigh a lot. With unlimited access to aluminum you could lighten it up quite a bit after you get the bugs worked out.

OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs. I was talking to my machinest neighbor and we had an idea on some of the pieces that are now steel being machined from a block of aluminum. That will be the next mill. This stuff is addictive...

I'll send more pictures when I get the aluminum tanks fabricated, throttle and oil pump mounted.

jerry-

 

[Stihl-in-Ky]

I bought my first Alaskan mill and then built one of my own,what I like about the one I built is the rails that run one the wood are made of uni-strut and if I want to make the mill longer all I have to do is put on two longer pieces of uni-strut and it can be as long as I have a bar for. Also on the adjustment for wood thickness I drilled holes at the common for me stops and it is a lot faster and easier to adjust and they will not slip as they are pinned in place.I put stops at 1,2,3,4 and 6.5 inches the 6.5 is what it takes to make my first cut with my ladder on top of the log to flatten the top of the log.

 

[woodshop]

OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs.

That's not too bad actually for a home made mill. My Alaskan MKIII with a 395XP and 36" bar/chain is 42 lbs. My Ripsaw with a MS361 powerhead is 47 lbs. Maybe you have more energy than I, but I will tell you swinging around something 50 lbs all day can really wear a guy out. Great way to burn calories though. AND... when its all said and done, you have some wood to show for it.

 

[duffontap]

Man these pics are great. I just got confirmation that the MKIII I ordered last week will be here soon. These are exciting times.

J. D.

 

[oldsaw]

I bought my first Alaskan mill and then built one of my own,what I like about the one I built is the rails that run one the wood are made of uni-strut and if I want to make the mill longer all I have to do is put on two longer pieces of uni-strut and it can be as long as I have a bar for. Also on the adjustment for wood thickness I drilled holes at the common for me stops and it is a lot faster and easier to adjust and they will not slip as they are pinned in place.I put stops at 1,2,3,4 and 6.5 inches the 6.5 is what it takes to make my first cut with my ladder on top of the log to flatten the top of the log.

Could you post a picture of that? Sounds like something I've been trying to work out but can't streamline enough to my satisfaction. Yours sounds much cleaner.

Mark

 

[Ole Dad]

Thanks for the pics Mike

Hey MIke. I am thinking of getting a mill just like yours. Let us know how you like it etc. I haven't spoke to anyone that has used one before. With no more woodworking etc I cannot justify a bandsaw mill but these chainsaw mills look like a good place to get started.

 

[1953greg]

wondering if that is enough engine? anyone have experience w/ small 4 cycle engines on a mill?? is there enough rpm to engage the clutch??
sure wood b quieter though!!!

http://arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62778&d=1200293223

 

[BobL]

Jerry,

I assumed you used C channel for the main rails because that is what you had available but I reckon the orientation you have chosen is going to cause unnecessary friction and wear where it rubs on any rails or the log itself during milling. If you can do it, I would flip the C section to have the flat part on the log. This is significantly easier to setup in an "adjustable for bar length form" if the main rails are T-track or Unistrut type rails. I have gone even further by putting polyethylene (PE) skids on both my small and larger mills (see link in my signature below). My BIL Mill is built entirely out of ally and with the 42" blade and old school 076 it also weighs about 50 lbs but it slides around on rails or logs easier than the small (50cc - 20" bar) mill without the (PE) skids attached.

 

[MikeInParadise]

Hey MIke. I am thinking of getting a mill just like yours. Let us know how you like it etc. I haven't spoke to anyone that has used one before. With no more woodworking etc I cannot justify a bandsaw mill but these chainsaw mills look like a good place to get started.

The mill does what it is supposed to do. It does the job but is hard work and is not real fast. I bought it to make use of dead falls etc out at the woodlot.

It requires a decent size saw.

It is ideal to take advantage of available wood when you do not have the equipment to move the logs out of the bush.

Do a search through the posts and you will find lots of pictures of various members using this.

 

[Ole Dad]

Hey Mike. If you would post some pics of you with it on a log. Someone was telling me I would need rails or 2x4 to run one of these on. I don't know so I'm watching this link for help.

 

[820wards]

Jerry,

I assumed you used C channel for the main rails because that is what you had available but I reckon the orientation you have chosen is going to cause unnecessary friction and wear where it rubs on any rails or the log itself during milling. If you can do it, I would flip the C section to have the flat part on the log. This is significantly easier to setup in an "adjustable for bar length form" if the main rails are T-track or Unistrut type rails. I have gone even further by putting polyethylene (PE) skids on both my small and larger mills (see link in my signature below). My BIL Mill is built entirely out of ally and with the 42" blade and old school 076 it also weighs about 50 lbs but it slides around on rails or logs easier than the small (50cc - 20" bar) mill without the (PE) skids attached.

Bob,

I was wondering if I needed to turn the C-Channel over. Easy to do, I'll just make blocks the bolt the channel to with flat side down. Thanks

jerry-

 

[harrygrey382]

Jee nice work Jerry, I'm about to build something pretty similar, just sorting out the right saw (stock chainsaw)... Another story. Do you mind if I borrow some of your details? I like the adjustable clamp for the thickness.

 

[BobL]

Bob,

I was wondering if I needed to turn the C-Channel over. Easy to do, I'll just make blocks the bolt the channel to with flat side down. Thanks

jerry-

Yep - good idea. The smoother the surface you run on the smoother a finish you get. If there is a bit of sharp dip or rise in the wood the mill will jump and can magnify the defect in the subsequent cuts.

 

[MikeInParadise]

Hey Mike. If you would post some pics of you with it on a log. Someone was telling me I would need rails or 2x4 to run one of these on. I don't know so I'm watching this link for help.

You really should do a search...there are tons of posts on this..

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40099



http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=56450

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39023

 

[rayvil01]

MikeinParadise,
In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please?

Thanks

 

[BobL]

MikeinParadise,
In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please?

Thanks

That's probably to reduce vibration? A bit like the foam on the handles on this one.

I've actually found that insulating foam to be ineffective for long term use as it stretches and flops about so one ends up taping it which compresses it too much and have found mountain bike grips on handles like this to be much better.

 

[MikeInParadise]

MikeinParadise,
In the bottom pic it looks like you have black pipe insulating foam on the tie rod of the Alaskan Mill. What's that for, please?

Thanks

BobL was correct it is just to dampen the vibration and to give my hands a little cush when I carry it. Just a big wuss am I

 

[1953greg]

jerry

OK, I worked on the mill again today and also weighed it. As you see it in the attached pictures with the mill head attached, it weighs 47.2 pounds. So I'm guessing that with the handles I still need to make the two oil tanks, gas tank and manual oil pump and chain, it should be right around 50 lbs. I was talking to my machinest neighbor and we had an idea on some of the pieces that are now steel being machined from a block of aluminum. That will be the next mill. This stuff is addictive...

I'll send more pictures when I get the aluminum tanks fabricated, throttle and oil pump mounted.

jerry-

any milling yet? curious if the engine doing ok? sure would be much quieter and economical if it is adequate.

 

[820wards]

any milling yet? curious if the engine doing ok? sure would be much quieter and economical if it is adequate.

No milling yet, BobL suggested that I rotate the channel piece so the flat side is down so I checked in the McMaster Carr catalog and I can purchase some alunumun channel that I can bolt on much easier. I'm going down Monday to a supplier that can get those pieces. I was hoping my friend where I get my aluminum from had something like that, but he didn't.

As for the 8.2c.i. 134cc PowerBe motor, it's brand new, never been fired. I have the same motor on my 820 WARDS saw so I'm very familar with these motors. In stock form it produces 10hp. I have updraded to a larger carburator and will be installing a high end electronic ignition. Once I get the unit running I also plan to change out the stainless steel reed valves to some carbon fiber units that will give me better throddle response. When I get done with the motor mods I should be making an honest 15hp. I have done these modifications to my chainsaw and it's a good reliable setup.

Spent today putting my brothers little SKIL 1416 back together that he took apart and couldn't put back together. Once back together I found that it needs a carburator rebuild kit. The diaphram is dried out and has a crack it so it's not pumping fuel.

I'll be starting the gas/oil tanks this week. I'll post more pictures when they are done.

jerry-