Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

[RanchWelder]

Hello from Montana.
Where the Elk Bulls get kicked in the rack at birth and the large Douglas Fir and Ponderosa Pine stand scared.

I've learned a lot from you guys and girls. Now I get to see the pictures, for the detailed build I have on my bench!

Very grateful for your expert advice and all the good things which your team amazes me with.
I am humbled to be here and learn.

 

[spuldup]

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelcome!

 

[RanchWelder]

My 372xp has a ruined rod bearing.

1) What specialty tool do you guys recommend to split the cases safely?
2) Best tool to push out the piston wrist pin?
3) Is it worth it to press out the flywheel pin and replace the rod and bearing, or just by Hyway and be done with it?

I have a busted top dog screw in the right side case.
I'm considering using a dremel to carefully cut out the outer case area and try to epoxy and re-drill the case with a patch.
Seems using magnesium or alumunim powder in the epoxy might add some strength to the repair?

What do you guys recommend and do you have any pictures of this type of repair when it went well?

Thanks Ryan for responding to my email... @wolf Creek Saw Shop

 

[Woodslasher]

My 372xp has a ruined rod bearing.

1) What specialty tool do you guys recommend to split the cases safely?
2) Best tool to push out the piston wrist pin?
3) Is it worth it to press out the flywheel pin and replace the rod and bearing, or just by Hyway and be done with it?

I have a busted top dog screw in the right side case.
I'm considering using a dremel to carefully cut out the outer case area and try to epoxy and re-drill the case with a patch.
Seems using magnesium or alumunim powder in the epoxy might add some strength to the repair?

What do you guys recommend and do you have any pictures of this type of repair when it went well?

Thanks Ryan for responding to my email... @wolf Creek Saw Shop

1: A brass hammer works but **** can go sour, or you can buy a Husqvarna case splitter tool and be done with it.
2: A Stihl scrench, the one with a t27 torx bit on the tip. Mine has removed pretty much every piston pin I've encountered since I figured out that trick.
3: No-go on replacing the rod bearing, personally I'd hunt for a good used oem one before I bought an a/m one, but if you wanna get a Hyway one go for it.
Cutting up and patching your case is no bueno, define a "busted top dog screw". If the screw's busted off in the hole try an easy-out or drill it out larger and helicoil or retap the hole. If the case busted out I'd find a new case half or use a really long bolt.

 

[RanchWelder]

OK, Small Cobalt reverse drill bit and a tiny easy out?
I've never seen an easy out small enought to take out an M5 or M6 threaded Black Oxide.
It's broken about an eight below the casting and the wall is not far from the tapped case on the 372.

There's a used crank on fleabate. It hurts to consider an OEM new because everything just went up double...

Anybody have options for me?

Maybe the mod will move my post to the proper forum and somebody will have some spare parts for me?

It doesn't have to be perfect, just good.

 

[RanchWelder]

This CASE in the first picture, is not my saw... however, this is the only case half for sale on FleaBait. He says it has thread inserts for both dog bolts. The only thing concerning me is the casting is still cracked at the insert on top. You would think somebody would have pressed and glued it back before the insert was installed. It looks a bit too rough for my purposes. What do you guys say?

The seller has an OEM crankshaft listed, with 2 available and one sold, using a single photo for both. I asked for exact pics of the one he's shipping, so I can make the purchase with full disclosure and quality photo's of the seal wear, threads and bearing race. I hope he sends them soon, with a caliper showing the thickness at the seal placement.

I'd like to buy OEM, however my budget does not support a factory style rebuild. Shame, it's a great saw.
My firewood season is here and this saw needs to earn it's keep on the "good used" stuff, until I get out of the woods and back on the bench this summer. Here's the ebait pics of the only case half in the world, for sale:

This next set of pics, is my basket case.

The saw was given to me by an Arborist.
He said the saw was run without oil, (straight gas), by one of his former employees.

Here' the broken dog bolt and the case missing a chunk. Looks like this issue and a coil fix is common, based upon the listing pic above.
I guess I could drill it out with a Cobalt bit and try not to wander?
I think I'll cement the thing on forever and be done with it instead of drilling half baked through a good housing:

Here's my piston, after it hit the roof. Actually, the skirts are clean, rings look OK:

Here's where the bits of metal from the bearing race broke out, after a squirt of Blaster broke it loose. The piston was frozen, but not in the cylinder. It was frozen from turning because of the race failure, without lubrication in between the counter weights. It's not stuck anymore:

Cylinder looks OK too. Lil' clean up on the roof. Aluminum bits opposite side of the plug... Good time to break out the Dremel?

****Please advise if the roof coating is compromised and this cylinder has damage beyond a clean up...

The case issue seems like I could cut along the break lines, away from the core and rebuild the weak outer wall with a quality epoxy mend and likely get another few years out of the 6-7 cords I run for firewood a year?

Wish there was room to add another dog bolt. I'm almost tempted to clean it with xylene and superglue/bottom bolt to the dog in place until I can locate another good case half.

If the mods would please move part or all of this thread to where others might have a chance to chime in, it would be great.

I get the 10 day rule. My reputation is good on other forum's using the same username, for whatever that's worth.

Anyone with options on good parts, please pm me with details.

I was warned the imported cases are coming in with large gaps and poor castings, requiring case cement to fill open holes, instead of just sealing two square sides together. I suppose they are being dumped into the market because some may not even meet the aftermarket assembly specs to make an A/M saw.

I'd rather fix a broken bolt than deal with air leaks. Hope this clears up my method of thinking: Fix it and keep it running OEM, if possible.

I'm a buyer of a good used OEM case splitter, and a 372 flywheel puller, if anyone has either of those for sale too.

 

[Agrarian]

For screw removal where none of the screw is above the surface, I used a Dremel-like tool and a carbide semi-round burr bit about 2/3 the diameter of the screw. Drill that into the screw about 3/8" then use a four-fluted screw extraction tool. If the tool bottoms out in your drilled hole, grind off enough of the tool to prevent that. Pound the extraction tool in and turn counter-clockwise keeping a good downward force. Heat from a heat gun or torch can help as well as some WD-40. Usually they back out fairly easily since the tension from the screw head has been eliminated. The exception is when some dufus put a longer than normal screw in and it broke because it bottomed out.

If this is successful and done well, you don't need to repair the hole afterwards. I've fixed many broken top cover screws this way.