DIY Stihl CaseSplitter

[stihlgold2008]

I found a crankcase splitter through Husqvarna that looks like a c-clamp with two jaws at the end for gripping inside the crankcase as the cranshaft is pressed through the crankcase half. It cost about 60 bucks and works on just about any magnesium case chain saw out there. I use a heat gun and an infrared thermometer to install crank bearings. Just heat up the bearing race while monitoring temp and the bearing will simply fall into place every time.

 

[tb55chevy]

OK she is finally finished!!!!

Just need to sink her into some wood and tweak as needed.

The tip on using the case screws worked AWESOME for pulling in the flywheel side and I used an old clutch and removed the springs and weights, put a large 1/2" washer over the shaft sitting on the oil pump then threaded on the clutch using just my spark plug wrench I was able to pull the crank into position. I will note I put the crank in the deep freeze for a couple days she was nice and cold never even needed to heat the bearings.

Now onto my buddies 026, I need to drill some more holes in my puller or build a new one for the smaller frame saw. Ill try and get some pictures of it tonight or tomorrow and post them of the finished product.

Now I think I could easily rebuild a saw in a mater of a few hours. Takes longer to clean the parts up than strip it down now I found on the 026.

 

[tb55chevy]

Here she is!

What do you guys think? Did the muffler mod all new gaskets seals bearings piston and rings. Even cleaned the muffler and painted it. Runs like a champ!

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

What do you guys think? Did the muffler mod all new gaskets seals bearings piston and rings. Even cleaned the muffler and painted it. Runs like a champ!

Looks like you did a good job! See sig if you would like help for pic embeding.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Congrats. Finally got around to getting one of mine put back together and ruunin' the other day, too.

Feels good, doesn't it?:msp_biggrin:



Poge

 

[tb55chevy]

Feels great now I need to go play with them. Was worried I would forget where everything went.

Got a 026 Pro to test out too, this 036 Pro still waiting on my Tach to come in though so I make sure I am not over revving it. Ordered it should be in next week. Then I will be 100% done with the 036.

then it will be look out fallen timber because here I come!

 

[beelsr]

Looks great!

Now, quick! Go cut some wood to rub the "Farm Boss" of the bar...

 

[imagineero]

The other trick for anyone attempting this in future is liquid nitrogen. It's how all the bearings are done on heavy equipment. The machined fit for larger bearings is often crush fit rather than interference fit, so they aren't going to slide in with any amount of heat. Plus, its hard to fit a 400 tonne dump truck in the oven.

The procedure is pretty straight forward. Get yourself a metal container bigger than the bearing. Stainless mixing bowls work just fine. Put the bearing in, pour the liquid nitrogen over and let it sit for a minute. Pull it out with pliers, don't handle it with bare hands or you'll lose your skin. Be quick about putting it in, they slide in nice as pie, and expand quickly. You can shrink them out by pouring nitrogen on the bearing while in the case.

It isn't as scary as it sounds, and if you have access to the liquid nitrogen its very cheap to do. For a one off, try asking a pipe freezer (plumber), a line borer, or just dropping by your local industrial gas supply shop. They may even sort you ot for free if theyre in a good mood. Low temperature aside, there's nothing dangerous about liquid nitrogen. It's non flammable and pretty inert, just use it in an open space as it expands to about 20x its volume in gas, which will displace oxygen if you're in a room. An open garage is fine.

Shaun

 

[beelsr]

The other trick for anyone attempting this in future is liquid nitrogen. It's how all the bearings are done on heavy equipment. The machined fit for larger bearings is often crush fit rather than interference fit, so they aren't going to slide in with any amount of heat. Plus, its hard to fit a 400 tonne dump truck in the oven.

The procedure is pretty straight forward. Get yourself a metal container bigger than the bearing. Stainless mixing bowls work just fine. Put the bearing in, pour the liquid nitrogen over and let it sit for a minute. Pull it out with pliers, don't handle it with bare hands or you'll lose your skin. Be quick about putting it in, they slide in nice as pie, and expand quickly. You can shrink them out by pouring nitrogen on the bearing while in the case.

It isn't as scary as it sounds, and if you have access to the liquid nitrogen its very cheap to do. For a one off, try asking a pipe freezer (plumber), a line borer, or just dropping by your local industrial gas supply shop. They may even sort you ot for free if theyre in a good mood. Low temperature aside, there's nothing dangerous about liquid nitrogen. It's non flammable and pretty inert, just use it in an open space as it expands to about 20x its volume in gas, which will displace oxygen if you're in a room. An open garage is fine.

Shaun

I'm gonna rep you as soon as I finish this because, well, just because.

So, other than freezing your skin off or suffocating you, liquid nitrogen is pretty safe, eh? :msp_ohmy:

I wouldn't bother with it for a bearing install - it's just not needed. Putting the case in the toaster oven is easier, safer, cheaper, etc...

And for what it's worth, I've used the stuff extensively so I know of what I speak. It is safe if you know what you're doing. Much like most of the world around us...

 

[tb55chevy]

I have to say after this saw being my first rebuild of a Pro series saw The deep freeze and a heat gun works good. Using and old clutch pulled the crank in like nothing and the case screw method worked like a charm. Quarter to half a turn at a crack pulled it together like nothing with a frozen crank. Oh don't forget to hit the ends of the crank or the crank will be bound up.

I do have to say for Stihl wanting a few hundred for all the "Stihl" tools home built ones work great and the home grown methods sure do the charm.

Oh BTW thanks to EVERYONE who helped with the ideas and yes I will soon be rubbing the Farmboss off that bar (was the only one the dealer had) as soon as my tach comes in today I hope. With the Exhaust mod I want to make sure the carb is set correctly did it by ear but it still scares me on a fresh rebuild.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I will soon be rubbing the Farmboss off that bar (was the only one the dealer had) as soon as my tach comes in today I hope. With the Exhaust mod I want to make sure the carb is set correctly did it by ear but it still scares me on a fresh rebuild.

Bear in mind that your MM may (should) have livened that rascal up somewhat and the tach will only give you a relative idea of how much compared to the "stock" spec of 13,000 if tuned well by ear after fattening it up. If you only tune to "spec" after any type of decent mod, you're just leaving the results of the mod on the bench and not seeing them in the saw's actual performance.

Last time I checked, ya don't mod a saw so it'll be the same as it was before ya modded it!



Poge


edit: Here's a link that pops up a lot for tuning by ear -- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/113538.htm

 

[tb55chevy]

So i am ok if I go over 14,000 RPM? The threads I was reading said to be carefull not to over rev the engine. So I should use the tach to get to my baseline then tune by ear after that and watch the plug for good color? I want to make sure I don't burn this thing up. Doubled the opening size in the exhaust over stock with a second hole the same size as the original.

Also as a question anyone have tips for breaking in? Or just cut wood like a Beaver in heat?