Do you guys think this muffler mod will hold up?

[iLikeChainsawsAlot]

So a complete newbie, but trying to be creative with what i have on hand. Its a copper pipe with a pretty snug fit, and i glued it up with some steel epoxy glue thats supposed to handle heat up to 150 Celsius.
I know its not pretty but do u think this should hold? It feels solid

 

[bigjeepmudder]

As long as you don't actually start the saw

 

[John Lyngdal]

Most epoxies have a glass transition temperature of 200F or less.
Exceed that and they loose their mechanical strength.

 

[KarlD]

No harm in trying...good work on having a go. There’s too many people out there these days that can’t be arsed to do anything

 

[lone wolf]

Keep us updated on this experiment.

 

[TNsawman]

Using regular JB Weld rated for 550F should hold up for a couple cuts at a time, but it will soften and fall out if it gets up to normal working temp.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Unfortunately I have had no luck with epoxy that is even made for high heat exhaust and it has alot to do with the violent shock/vibrations that are transmitted to the muffler.
Soon as heat cycles begin to weaked that epoxy it will come apart.

 

[sean donato]

Just a heads up, if it gives it up. Steel pipe is pretty cheap, and a little map gas torch and brazing rods are pretty cheap as well. Works pretty good once you get the feel for it.

 

[iLikeChainsawsAlot]

Thanks for all the feedback and tips. I went out and gave it a shot. Loved the way the chainsaw ran, and sounded. Might be placebo but i felt throttle response was very good.

Like most of you with experience said it did not hold up. It survived the first tank, but even then i was doubting my solution because the heated epoxy was giving off some really bad smell, i can only imagine that stuff is toxic when heated to melting point. Made my gag relfex kick in..
But point is second tank first cut while notching the pipe fell out.

Im going to buy map gas torch like sean donato suggested. But in the hardwear store im looking at they have 2 kinds of brazing. Theres aluminuim and copper. Which one do you suggest ?

I am Norwegian so i apologize for writing errors..

 

[sean donato]

The braze is normally copper or bronze looking in color. I get the stuff with flux on it already. You would need a steel pipe for it to work right.

 

[southpaw]

Thanks for all the feedback and tips. I went out and gave it a shot. Loved the way the chainsaw ran, and sounded. Might be placebo but i felt throttle response was very good.

Like most of you with experience said it did not hold up. It survived the first tank, but even then i was doubting my solution because the heated epoxy was giving off some really bad smell, i can only imagine that stuff is toxic when heated to melting point. Made my gag relfex kick in..
But point is second tank first cut while notching the pipe fell out.

Im going to buy map gas torch like sean donato suggested. But in the hardwear store im looking at they have 2 kinds of brazing. Theres aluminuim and copper. Which one do you suggest ?

I am Norwegian so i apologize for writing errors..

So now you have experience , we all have done things similar in nature and it's all part of learning
You don't have to apologize for writing that's something many of us do , I can sometimes be the worse but just keep trying to improve on
Welcome to the site and have fun with your chainsaws & cool projects

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Thanks for all the feedback and tips. I went out and gave it a shot. Loved the way the chainsaw ran, and sounded. Might be placebo but i felt throttle response was very good.

Like most of you with experience said it did not hold up. It survived the first tank, but even then i was doubting my solution because the heated epoxy was giving off some really bad smell, i can only imagine that stuff is toxic when heated to melting point. Made my gag relfex kick in..
But point is second tank first cut while notching the pipe fell out.

Im going to buy map gas torch like sean donato suggested. But in the hardwear store im looking at they have 2 kinds of brazing. Theres aluminuim and copper. Which one do you suggest ?

I am Norwegian so i apologize for writing errors..

If you can not weld in any form there is an option. Using any form of glue will not succeed. I did make some very high tech mufflers years ago with carbon fiber and Kevlar. Yes it worked but the conditions were very precise. Then do you need spark arrestors or not. Buy a muffler on Flea bay and rivet it to your existing. Have you exhausted all sources for finding a replacement that does not need to be welded. I bought a whole replacement muffler spark arrestor for my 372 XP including shipping for under $25. Thanks

 

[jetsam]

JB turns to goo around 600°F. The fast setting version goes south at about 300°.

I tried it on a motorcycle muffler one time with predictable results!

You can braze copper to steel, that's actually a great reason to choose brazing over welding for some applications. (But I'd use a steel tube, you can braze steel to steel too.)

Grind that JB off the outside before brazing or you are gonna need a gas mask.

 

[North by Northwest]

Welcome to the forum bud ! Good learning experience with the expoxy , been there lol. The brazing method would be your best route as Sean suggested , braze is forgiving compared to learning to weld Ferris metals . Alternately Ted's advice on a replacement muffler is another valid option @ a reasonable price point . Good luck keep us posted !