Wood
Sprig , what wood do you use for shingles up there ?
Sprig , what wood do you use for shingles up there ?
Do you put an edge on a maul ???
- Thread starter Dale
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
scottr, cedar only (western red), its the only thing that makes sense, rot resistant and done properly (they, the powers that be, are apparently require fire treatment on ones used for new construction, gah!) I've seen rooves last over 25yrs without leaking (most gawdawful tearoffs tho, talkin' dusty black soot-like crap, p.u.) and there are a couple around here (1" thick barn shakes) that have to be pushing 50yrs or more, as well over on the big Island (Van) there is one old barn with yellow cedar shakes that has to be over 100yrs old, totally outta the question in this day and age (yellow cedar very sought after in clear lengths for boats and furniture etc.). With roofs like these, as with just about any shingle roofs, zinc strips along the lower edge of the caps are important as they keep moss growth to a minimum. I have talked to people over the years who have done shed and barn roofs with old growth fir but I'd shy away from that personally. Its the creosote/resin content that makes cedar durable, but also burns really nicely (rem the fires in Cal. eh).
Serge
Serge
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup yup
I concur w/out any doubt dude. It's really all technique. Finding a good balance. If your swinging wrong you're more likely to feel it in your lower back I believe. I can swing a maul for hours and not feel too tired. My brother swings one for like 5 or 10 min, and he's about done for the day. If it takes him 4 swings to bust a block, I can get it in one. I think learning about the wood is another important aspect. You learn to look for those little cracks, split wood from the top to bottom, stay away from knots, etc... Those little things have helped me alot. I was told to swing and use your hips to really drive it down, others like a high overhead swing, either way I think overextending is a bad thing, I keep my swings in close to my body. I think it depends on the maul/axe. With an axe it seems as though the more speed you get the better they work, you also want that little twisting action with an axe so it doesn't stick in the wood, with a maul you can swing slower and get better penetration. Anyone else use any of these pointers others told me? Also, does anyone have any other pointers? There's always some good tricks folks can tell you about how they learned...
Sprig said:A block of paraffin wax would probably be healthier and give the same result, WD-40? Dog lunch unless you've got stuck nuts imo.I think that decent technique and practice makes more of a difference than whether or not its 'sharp', let the tool do the work from the top of your swing, the skill is in directing the head to where you want it. My 0.02$ worth fer the day.
I concur w/out any doubt dude. It's really all technique. Finding a good balance. If your swinging wrong you're more likely to feel it in your lower back I believe. I can swing a maul for hours and not feel too tired. My brother swings one for like 5 or 10 min, and he's about done for the day. If it takes him 4 swings to bust a block, I can get it in one. I think learning about the wood is another important aspect. You learn to look for those little cracks, split wood from the top to bottom, stay away from knots, etc... Those little things have helped me alot. I was told to swing and use your hips to really drive it down, others like a high overhead swing, either way I think overextending is a bad thing, I keep my swings in close to my body. I think it depends on the maul/axe. With an axe it seems as though the more speed you get the better they work, you also want that little twisting action with an axe so it doesn't stick in the wood, with a maul you can swing slower and get better penetration. Anyone else use any of these pointers others told me? Also, does anyone have any other pointers? There's always some good tricks folks can tell you about how they learned...
Direction of growth
Cisco , I have better luck splitting the log in the same direction that it grew . When you say that you use your hips isn't that bending your knees ?
Cisco , I have better luck splitting the log in the same direction that it grew . When you say that you use your hips isn't that bending your knees ?
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
yep
I do bend my knees for sure. When I'm finished swinging into the wood, my shoulder is at about the same height as the handle of the maul and close into my body. Because I'm a little guy, 5'9" 170lbs, I need all the a55 I can get into it. And yea, I think we were saying the same thing, you put what would have been the bottom of the tree/block down and split it the same way it grew right??? I find it easier to split it that way...
scottr said:
I do bend my knees for sure. When I'm finished swinging into the wood, my shoulder is at about the same height as the handle of the maul and close into my body. Because I'm a little guy, 5'9" 170lbs, I need all the a55 I can get into it. And yea, I think we were saying the same thing, you put what would have been the bottom of the tree/block down and split it the same way it grew right??? I find it easier to split it that way...
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cisco, a wee addendum, with a good maul it shouldn't be necessary to add much force to your swing, just enough to speed it up as it comes off the top of your arc, don't have to exert yourself (tho watching others struggling uselessly can be amusing for a bit, just the evil in me lol), if you are right handed left foot slightly forward for balance, and really try not to do any hip swingy type stuff unless you don't value your back and for heavens sake you don't have to start your swing from the ground (yer not golfing lol), a nice way to wear yourself out quickly me thinks, if you use a clock analogy on the ideal swing you are going from 3 (start) to 8 (end), slide your hand up to lift the head, and as the head comes over you slide it back down for you ending (is any of this making sense? dunno, only and last lesson here lol). gah. Bit of knee bend is a good thing, why lock 'em. Good up-right posture and a cutting block thats not too high, let the tool do da work, it saves tons of wear 'n' tear on you. A lot to be said for body dynamics when doing work, just ask some of the sorry worn out bodies around here lol (jk, jk). Unless its a real heavy old axe you'll be working a lot harder to bust blocks up with one, someone mentioned finishing off pieces with one, well, it is lighter to lift initially so I can understand this approach. Btw never use something with a handle short enough to hit you in the shins, a no brainer but I know some do-dos with some pretty awesome scars, me pop has a great one from an adze when he was around six, DOH! Keep on askin' man, my brain loves a good pickin' lol 
, but then....................so does my nose. I won't ask ya ta pick that tho, kid's retarded hamster (by name of Shadow, I call him Ratty-cakes, ya ya too much info) would have a fit of jealousy :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
Serge, time fer a cocktail..........Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
, but then....................so does my nose. I won't ask ya ta pick that tho, kid's retarded hamster (by name of Shadow, I call him Ratty-cakes, ya ya too much info) would have a fit of jealousy :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: Serge, time fer a cocktail..........Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Last edited:
Direction
Cisco , the top of the log goes on the chopping block and it is split by driving the maul through the bottom to the top . If I pick the check in the end of the log that splits the log closest to half to make the first split it works best for me .
Cisco , the top of the log goes on the chopping block and it is split by driving the maul through the bottom to the top . If I pick the check in the end of the log that splits the log closest to half to make the first split it works best for me .
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
yuppers
Absolutely, that little check is the key to the universe, lol. Works for most everything. I just usually split it the other way. Either way works, as long as your on the opposite end of the knots. I was just taught top to bottom and it's worked for me. Also, if your splitting punky wood, hitting the edge is much easier than trying to hack through the punky center...
scottr said:
Absolutely, that little check is the key to the universe, lol. Works for most everything. I just usually split it the other way. Either way works, as long as your on the opposite end of the knots. I was just taught top to bottom and it's worked for me. Also, if your splitting punky wood, hitting the edge is much easier than trying to hack through the punky center...
Volume
Cisco , how much wood do you burn per heating season up there ?
Cisco , how much wood do you burn per heating season up there ?
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Supplement
I supplement fuel oil/wood. Right now I burn about 15-20 face cord, I sell around 10-20, and give away 10 or so to needy people in the area I can find if I know about them and they can use it. This year I plan on burning more if I can since the price of fuel oil is so high. Right now I've got about 20 face cord in my basement and another 6 or 7 stacked up outside getting ready for next year. My cousin is the big burner, he burns around 40 face cord/yr at his home, he gets it for his mother also who burns around 15 or so FACE cord. I usually help him with all his and mine. My house is big and it's still just a supplement for me, around 3800 sq ft. And I've only got a 60,000 btu stove in the basement with no blower or anything on it. It knocked my fuel oil bill down about $1000 the first year I ran it and has been good ever since. I guess all in all, I end up spending around 3 or 400 on wood and $1000 on fuel oil now. We do have frequent power outages up here, one for 16 days back in 97, I was living in Charlotte, NC at that time, and every now and again it goes out for a day or 2 at a time. It's good to have then...
scottr said:
I supplement fuel oil/wood. Right now I burn about 15-20 face cord, I sell around 10-20, and give away 10 or so to needy people in the area I can find if I know about them and they can use it. This year I plan on burning more if I can since the price of fuel oil is so high. Right now I've got about 20 face cord in my basement and another 6 or 7 stacked up outside getting ready for next year. My cousin is the big burner, he burns around 40 face cord/yr at his home, he gets it for his mother also who burns around 15 or so FACE cord. I usually help him with all his and mine. My house is big and it's still just a supplement for me, around 3800 sq ft. And I've only got a 60,000 btu stove in the basement with no blower or anything on it. It knocked my fuel oil bill down about $1000 the first year I ran it and has been good ever since. I guess all in all, I end up spending around 3 or 400 on wood and $1000 on fuel oil now. We do have frequent power outages up here, one for 16 days back in 97, I was living in Charlotte, NC at that time, and every now and again it goes out for a day or 2 at a time. It's good to have then...
Cook
Cisco , that's a lot of splitting . Can you cook on your wood burner or do you have a gas stove ?
Cisco , that's a lot of splitting . Can you cook on your wood burner or do you have a gas stove ?
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup
I can cook on it, sometimes I put a stew on it to simmer all day, it's one of life's grand pleasures, lol. I have a gas stove also that we do day to day cooking on though, lol.
scottr said:
I can cook on it, sometimes I put a stew on it to simmer all day, it's one of life's grand pleasures, lol. I have a gas stove also that we do day to day cooking on though, lol.
woodho
ArboristSite Lurker
I don't know about you guys with all these dull mauls. I use a Gransfors Bruks maul which is as sharp as an axe. It has a 5.5 pound head and splits anything. I've even had some luck splitting Elm. I've used alot of different mauls but this one is by far the best and its sharp. BTW, I know alot of guys who use axes to split with good success. I guess this is one of those Chevy vs. Ford debates Or more appropriately Husky vs. Stihl.
Woodho
Woodho
woodho said:
Same here. As it isn't the edge that splits the wood but the wedge following it, why would you want the edge dull? Just wastes energy forcing it to enter the wood. Blunt (fast taper) and sharp.
Harry K
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Reason
Okee dokee, I've got the perfect answer on this topic for ya. Have you ever tried to split a punky piece of beech or maple? You'd swing those sharp devices ONE time and then they'd sit in your vehicle for the rest of the day. Sharp axes/mauls get stuck in punky wood like no tomorrow, or at least that's my experience. You'd need that sharp one and like two other's to pound it out of the wood. I don't know if you've run into any where your at, but here, it's very common and you definitely don't want anything sharp or with a small head for the type of wood I'm splitting... Hope that answers your question. If not, lemme know and I'll get you some pics that will demonstrate sharp axes/mauls in punky wood. Cheers...
turnkey4099 said:
Okee dokee, I've got the perfect answer on this topic for ya. Have you ever tried to split a punky piece of beech or maple? You'd swing those sharp devices ONE time and then they'd sit in your vehicle for the rest of the day. Sharp axes/mauls get stuck in punky wood like no tomorrow, or at least that's my experience. You'd need that sharp one and like two other's to pound it out of the wood. I don't know if you've run into any where your at, but here, it's very common and you definitely don't want anything sharp or with a small head for the type of wood I'm splitting... Hope that answers your question. If not, lemme know and I'll get you some pics that will demonstrate sharp axes/mauls in punky wood. Cheers...
STIHLSamantha
ArboristSite Member
i have to admit....i feel that a little sharper of a maul works well....when my husband bought me my new maul...(the one we "improved") i found that it was too dull and i had to shave it down a bit to give it a bit of an edge....not as thin or as sharp as an ax...because it does get stuck in punky wood if it is too sharp...but enough so that it gave it a bit of a bite....
chowdozer
Addicted to ArboristSite
turnkey4099 said:
Yeah, I sharpen my maul too. With a file. I split maple, madrona, fir, hemloch, cherry and apple.
ciscoguy01 said:
I don't split it if I'm not going to burn it.
ciscoguy01 said:
To each his own. Yes I have split punky stuff. Yes, I have stuck both my maul and wedges in it. Do I split a lot of it? Not on your life. The occasional piece gets split, lots of punky stuff doesn't even come home with me. Sharp/dull makes no difference. My answer still holds. It isn't the edge that does the splitting - it is the wedge section following. Dull maul = extra work.
Harry K
Monkeyhanger
ArboristSite Guru
Hi,
I mostly split Beech, Oak and Ash using an Ochsenkopf or a Gransfors splitting hammer/maul. The gransfors is razor sharp, the Ochsenkopf less so because of its more triangular shape. I keep the edges sharp with a convex edge and polished (at least at the start of the season) and can't say that I have problems with either of them. Generally it takes just one stroke with the Gransfors to split a normal piece of Beech. If the gransfors can't do I reach for a saw!
The ochsenkopf was originally dull, blunt and next to useless. In fact I only used it to drive wedges as splitting was hopeless with it. After buying the gransfors I also sharpened and polished the Ochsenkopf and haven't looked back since. On soft ground (no stones) I use the Gransfors. If there is a risk of hitting stones I use the Ochsenkopf.
I'd say keep them sharp!
Bye
I mostly split Beech, Oak and Ash using an Ochsenkopf or a Gransfors splitting hammer/maul. The gransfors is razor sharp, the Ochsenkopf less so because of its more triangular shape. I keep the edges sharp with a convex edge and polished (at least at the start of the season) and can't say that I have problems with either of them. Generally it takes just one stroke with the Gransfors to split a normal piece of Beech. If the gransfors can't do I reach for a saw!
The ochsenkopf was originally dull, blunt and next to useless. In fact I only used it to drive wedges as splitting was hopeless with it. After buying the gransfors I also sharpened and polished the Ochsenkopf and haven't looked back since. On soft ground (no stones) I use the Gransfors. If there is a risk of hitting stones I use the Ochsenkopf.
I'd say keep them sharp!
Bye
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yuppers
Actually, I completely agree with you on that. But the wider the top of the head, the less likely you are to get it stuck in the punky wood. That's all I was saying. It does take a little more umph to get it to go through. And yea, dull is a bad word, blunt is more what I was looking for. Also, when you are splitting punky wood, it's much better if you hit around the outside edge where the wood is still dense. That's seems to make the biggest difference.
turnkey4099 said:
Actually, I completely agree with you on that. But the wider the top of the head, the less likely you are to get it stuck in the punky wood. That's all I was saying. It does take a little more umph to get it to go through. And yea, dull is a bad word, blunt is more what I was looking for. Also, when you are splitting punky wood, it's much better if you hit around the outside edge where the wood is still dense. That's seems to make the biggest difference.
