Does porting shorten the life of a chainsaw?

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Well while I got you here why does Stihl dimple the intake boot on the inside?
I thought dimples were always indentations? Nevertheless I don't really know, just to cause some turbulence to atomized fuel better. I certainly haven't see it help power any. The boot being so short I can't see it doing much IMHO, and dimpling seems to mostly help spherical objects. [emoji111]
 
I thought dimples were always indentations? Nevertheless I don't really know, just to cause some turbulence to atomized fuel better. I certainly haven't see it help power any. The boot being so short I can't see it doing much IMHO, and dimpling seems to mostly help spherical objects. [emoji111]
Its probably to break up the boundary layer of air along the intake walls, I'd hazard a guess you want turbulent (not laminar) flow in an intake tract for thorough atomization and proper mixing and if you get rid of the boundary layer you could gain some efficiency that might otherwise be lost to friction.
 
Its probably to break up the boundary layer of air along the intake walls, I'd hazard a guess you want turbulent (not laminar) flow in an intake tract for thorough atomization and proper mixing and if you get rid of the boundary layer you could gain some efficiency that might otherwise be lost to friction.

Are you an aviation buff? Lol. I would agree, but than again the boot is so short I wonder how much it could matter? If there was a plenum sure.
 
Likely very little difference in HP and RPM, I would bet that it isn't noticeable, much less measurable (the value of any gains would be within the margin of error). Its the same phenomenon as dimples on a golfball.

The other unique thing is that the flow is effectively switched on and off at a high rate of speed, so I suspect that the momentum of the column of air and fuel is also something that would need to be optimized, ie. tract length and cross sectional area, plus density of the charge. I'd guarantee that 2 stroke tuners have already figured out these things and have developed some rules of thumb.
 
Likely very little difference in HP and RPM, I would bet that it isn't noticeable, much less measurable (the value of any gains would be within the margin of error). Its the same phenomenon as dimples on a golfball.

The other unique thing is that the flow is effectively switched on and off at a high rate of speed, so I suspect that the momentum of the column of air and fuel is also something that would need to be optimized, ie. tract length and cross sectional area, plus density of the charge. I'd guarantee that 2 stroke tuners have already figured out these things and have developed some rules of thumb.
I believe this Japanese figured all that out. And I agree I have not seen any difference in performance with the smooth boot or the ones Stihl uses.
 
comparing apples to brick bats. If you want a fair comparsion, start your two saws on 2 equal sized wood piles making firewood. At the end of your 100 hours compare the saws, but also compare the amount of work that was done by each. Properly modded, there will be a huge difference between the two. Expect the modded saw to maybe need a little more maintenance and rightfully so. If you have the work the mod saw will get done quicker and on to the next. ALERT!!!! I have heard of a modded saw or two that were slower than stock. Careful on the mods. lol
 
@ShoerFast This guy knows why Stihl did it something about better acceleration from idle IDK exactly. Shoe?
Yes, as mentioned. Dimples / texture keeps fuel from puddling. Cold idle the fuel tends to want to fall out of the stream, dimples / texture encourages the fuel to stay with the stream.
A convergent inlet would do the same thing by increasing the velocity, giving the fuel less chance to drop out. But a convergent inlet would jack with WOT flow.

dimples to keep fuel from puddling.
 
Thanks for all the information. Learning a ton of things on here. I’ve had an account for several years but now I feel I want to learn much more than just the operating a saw and the routine maintenance.


No problem! But I need to figure out what model I want yet :D

Your Porsche reminded me of an old 88 f-150 my uncle had. Had some great motor work and 30 years later we could see the road through the rusted out floorboards;)

The fun part is the chainsaw! It’s all the work of splitting and stacking that takes all the time. :chop:
Thanks for all the information. Learning a ton of things on here. I’ve had an account for several years but now I feel I want to learn much more than just the operating a saw and the routine maintenance.


No problem! But I need to figure out what model I want yet :D

Your Porsche reminded me of an old 88 f-150 my uncle had. Had some great motor work and 30 years later we could see the road through the rusted out floorboards;)

The fun part is the chainsaw! It’s all the work of splitting and stacking that takes all the time. :chop:
So it's not the 361?
 
I always find it a little funny those concerned about porded pro saw lifespans almost always could not wear out a properly maintaned stock or ported to begin with. IMO its far more important for saw newbs to get good at sharpening chains, have a fool proof system with regard to your fuel mix i.e keeping it fresh & consistent amount of good 2t oil that you stick too. Clean air filter, learn how to tune well, clean spark arrestors, keep clean fuel tank da-da-da. Master keeping your saw alive and healthy....these are things YOU can do to extend then life of your saw. Worrying about how many thousand million revolutions a main bearing will last on a modified saw is out of your control in any case. A stock saw can be straight gassed just as quickly as a modified one, the sound of a skidder driving over a stock saw is the same too.
 
I always find it a little funny those concerned about porded pro saw lifespans almost always could not wear out a properly maintaned stock or ported to begin with. IMO its far more important for saw newbs to get good at sharpening chains, have a fool proof system with regard to your fuel mix i.e keeping it fresh & consistent amount of good 2t oil that you stick too. Clean air filter, learn how to tune well, clean spark arrestors, keep clean fuel tank da-da-da. Master keeping your saw alive and healthy....these are things YOU can do to extend then life of your saw. Worrying about how many thousand million revolutions a main bearing will last on a modified saw is out of your control in any case. A stock saw can be straight gassed just as quickly as a modified one, the sound of a skidder driving over a stock saw is the same too.
Everyone starts out as a newb. Someone asking a question from pros who have experience is a great way to gain insight and knowledge. I've owned saws for 20 years and have never had one fail me yet. I agree that maintenance is vital to all equipment. I just happened to operate a ported 361 that a friend of my cousin brought when we were removing some fallen oak trees in the pasture after a windstorm came through. The torque and throttle response blew me away, so was thinking about having port work done to one of mine.
 
Have you contacted a builder? The guy who worked on my saw laid out more information in 45 minutes than I've been able to read on this site in the last 6 months. Some of these guys really, and I mean really know their $#@! but they get tired of being crucified when they give an honest answer on a public forum. This isn't really a dig against AS, it holds true with any public forum.
 
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