Dolmar 111 adapted...
- Thread starter MiloFrance
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captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
the oil delivery pipe is si subject to shrink over the years so it appears that someone has adapted something/clamp to make sure its clamped tight against the tank, the rubber delivery pipe has a incorporated grommet approx. 12mm fro arguments sake which shrinks and so the oil leaks out of the hole all over the place,. common fault with these saws. you could take that gubbins of, clean it all up with brake cleaner etc. and fit it back in with a liberal coat of petrol/oil compatible silicon/gasket sealer ? depending on how bad it actually is,i still use gasket sealer if fitting a new oil line on these saws as I have had new hoses leak. its a very common problem, bloody good saws though ;o)
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
That makes some sense. What's the hole he's put the screw in for normally? Or did he drill and use a self-tapper? 
captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
chain catcher ;o)That makes some sense. What's the hole he's put the screw in for normally? Or did he drill and use a self-tapper?
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
Rather than start a new thread whenever I'm stuck, I think it would be easier just to carry this one on for my saw?
Latest instalment is finding a chaincover on fleabay for the 111 with intact brake mechanism. Only it's a different shape. Did they change the design?
Latest instalment is finding a chaincover on fleabay for the 111 with intact brake mechanism. Only it's a different shape. Did they change the design?
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captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
I couldn't honestly inoform you but I think an expert or enthusiast in this model will be able to tell you . C.D
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
Progress... The part number is for a chain cover on 109 110 111 and 115 saws, but clearly not mine. On the same site there is one from an 'old style' 109 that looks identical to mine... The search continues
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
So some sideways progress. In my quest for a 111 chain brake, I saw a scrap saw that could do the trick, only it was a 115i. The reason for it being scrap was a crack in the oil tank part of the case. It had already been helicoiled and things were looking less than ideal. Took it to a mate who has a rather more comprehensive workshop than me, and he retapped the hole, secured and sealed it all with a JB weld type thing, turned a new stud, and I now have a 115i instead... As a bonus, the 115 piston is spotless, as opposed to the slight scar on the 111. As an aside, is the main difference between the two a bigger carb?
As a bonus, the 115 piston is spotless, as opposed to the slight scar on the 111. As an aside, is the main difference between the two a bigger carb?Attachments
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The main difference is the cylinder. The 111 has an open port cylinder, and the 115/115i has a closed port cylinder.
Griffdog1
ArboristSite Operative
If usable, grab the 115i and swap its top end over. The closed port 115i is a cracking saw that is equal to anything in its class from the time. Runs like a much bigger saw. All of this series of saws are very well made and usable but the 115i is the best. A "weakness" of this saw was that it was the first dolmar that separated the chainbrake flag from the actual band mechanism (the flag stays in place when you remove the clutch cover. It pivots on a casting on the clutch side case which is prone to snapping off if the saw is dropped on the flag/handle. This is hard to fix as ther is a lot of torque running through on the pivot so bonding is not generally successful. This is the cause of a lot of brakeless 109/110/111/115 series saws.
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
That's why I can only find covers with missing bands than... thank you for that!
When you say swap the top end over, it's the 115i thats in better condition. Having run it it does feel like a much bigger saw. Not cut anything with it yet, as a supposed write off it came without a bar and chain.
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
Things go slowly here... Tried running the 115i, wouldn't rev at all. Took the air filter off and it's spitting fuel back through the carb. Rebuild time, but no model number (HU letters but thats all) on the carb, and it has a plastic cover that doesn't match any pics I can find. There's a stamped number 83E717 but that comes up blank on the web too. Will any HU service kit work? Thank you all for the help with this, looking forward to getting this one in working conditions!
MiloFrance
ArboristSite Member
Carb kit ordered... From Germany which I suppose makes sense!
