Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Been given a 133, in bits. Most of the saw is there but the flywheel and coil are from a 123 and Im told the coil didn’t work. Does anyone know how to test these or how to fix?
Dolmar 133
- Thread starter Kidneycutter
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turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Copy coils are available on the bay. Also a company in Europe does complete replacement units or follow tis thread: https://www.arboristsite.com/thread...5-056-bosch-electronic-ignition.256095/page-3 Same as Stihl 056
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
I did read about leaving the coil on and replacing the trigger unit with a chip/module …..would this work?
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, if you read thread as I listed above, it shows you how to do it and cost is very small, providing you can do your own work. I have done this and it works! Capacitors are best fitted remotely as very tight on room under the flywheel and temperature effects the life of them.
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Hi, thanks for the reply. I’ve been trying to find the right capacitor but not sure where or what is right. I managed to find this https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/produc...QwxpwjGY275hkUIbXNGqOF5O0y-wUrbgaApfyEALw_wcB
it would be good to know if I’m on the right track. Also bought a module bu again unsure whether this will work as it’s solid state.
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Capacitor looks right. I would use this type in conjunction with foggisail fix. The module seem to sometimes cause timing issues and things get more complicated. I fitted mine under the cover by carb etc, Drilled and ty-wrapped and siliconed , I is better fitted remotely as heat is not good for the capacitors. Good luck, take your time, keep the wires clear of flywheel and insulated with silicon
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Cheers for that, will proceed if it fails will buy replacement part from sagenspezi it seems to be the same as the stihl 056.
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
The alternative is to buy a Dolmar 309 concrete saw as a donor, if you can find one which has a damaged cylinder etc or low compression which is common, the ignition is the same, if its Bosch then just use modules or if it's SEM type use both flywheel and ign module, they come up for sale all the time
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Thanks for reply. I’ve gone for the cheap fix I’ve exposed the circuit and bodged a few wires …just waiting for the capacitor to come
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Hi, the capacitor came today wired it up and if got a spark. But it’s weak ….not sure why.
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Did you use complete new wires? Have you wired the kill switch in? The coil lead and connections can give trouble, if you haven't already check all that is in good order. To be honest they never have a 'big' spark from what I've seen, last one I did I thought it had weak spark, checked in the dark and it was ok and ran like a good one! It can still be possible to have a coil problem, you can get Chicom ones, I've used them and they worked!
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Thanks for reply, I think I was looking for a big fat spark. if i pull hard I’m getting a moderate spark which tallies with your reply. My next problem is I’m missing the carb bolts m5 x 80 and exhaust bolts M6 x 65.
where abouts in the carb area did you mount the capacitor?
compression is massive,
thanks
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
You should be able to get bolts from a good hardware supplier, use cap screws, easier to work with and for the exhaust will last better. I have fitted mine in the rear section by carb, but on 123, 133 is different, but fit wherever you can get it, out of heat, nothing stopping you fitting it to the outside if you make a little protection. Have you got a parts manual IPL, if not this may come in use for you.
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Thanks, I’ve already got parts list. I think I’ll reassemble once i get the bolts and see what room I have so I don’t foul up the throttle/choke linkage Etc
thanks for you help,
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
Best way to start is when cold pull it over a few times, no choke, then choke it, ease piston up to over compression, then pull hard! Should fire, then choke off and repeat, they're typical of that era, I have a Husky 2100 so used to these big old beasts, once you get the knack! For sure you'll get a couple of wrist snappers!!
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
While you are waiting to get the bolts, I suggest you put piston at TDC and squirt some WD40 in the cylinder, leave for 15mins or so, spin it over a few times then leave at TDC and give it another squirt and leave it for a day or so, it helps to free up stuck rings and soften carbon,
turkeybob
ArboristSite Operative
If you have some spare time it may be useful for you to browse these threads:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/sachs-dolmar-chainsaws-thread.143945/page-180
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/sachs-dolmar-chainsaws-thread.143945/page-180
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Thanks for that and the WD certainly eased the movement. Managed to find some bolts, made a few gaskets as I had various leaks, a bad one on the intake boot. Also the flywheel key sheared, I’m guessing someone wasn’t too kind when it came off judging by the end threads being mullered!
Anyway not quite finished but she idles nicely, did an overhaul on the carb. so thanks for help and info. I think I’d have another parts saw if not And thank the lord for the mighty vac!
thanks,
Kidneycutter
Kidneycutter
Hi,
come back to this saw again, and I’m having a problem at high revs. It surges wuickly at high throttle. Not sure whether this is a fuel problem or something to do with the new capacitor and timing is slightly out. It idles really well.I did a leak testvand all was fine.
here’s a video of it running
come back to this saw again, and I’m having a problem at high revs. It surges wuickly at high throttle. Not sure whether this is a fuel problem or something to do with the new capacitor and timing is slightly out. It idles really well.I did a leak testvand all was fine.
here’s a video of it running
