Dolmar 5105 questions.

[SawTroll]

I know where you're coming from Niko but the 550XP isn't really relevant as it is a lot newer design with a hell of a lot more technology. There is absolutely no comparison between a 550XP's performance compared to any other stock saw I've used. I did notice sluggish off idle throttle response with my 5100-S when I first got it but I simply richened up the L jet which fixed that.

First thing I did - but it just was a partial help! :msp_wink:

 

[ncfarmboy]

So, my questions are these:

What needs to be replaced after being straight gassed? Is it just a new piston assembly? Other parts?

How difficult of a task is it? Do I need special tools?

I did a quick search and found some 54cc piston replacements for my saw. That intrigued me as bigger is always better, right? Can I / Should I just get another Dolmar piston?

What am I looking at dollar-wise if I take it back to the dealer to have him do it? Is he going to get a genuine Dolmar piston or is he going to buy a brand that I could buy?

I'm leaning toward just letting my dealer fix it--that way I'm sure it will run right again, but if he is going to charge me anywhere around $300 it may not be worth it. If I have to sink that much money back into this saw, the new Stihl MS 261 might start to call my name.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Don't know on the 54cc piston. Oem is around $75. Husky 353 and 51 45mm pistons will work with a little work.
Dealer will use OEM.
Dealer is prob gonna want $300 to fix it with a new OEM P&C kit. OEM P&C Kits are around $200, pistons $75. You can do it yourself easy saw to work on. If you do a P&C change you will need a T-27 6" long socket or T handle. The only problem I've run into is the T handle and the long socket won't go in the AV spring on the cyl. I fortunately had a L shape T-27 filed it down a little to fit.
261 NAH! 550XP YES!
Shep

 

[SawTroll]

Don't know on the 54cc piston. Oem is around $75. Husky 353 and 51 45mm pistons will work with a little work.
Dealer will use OEM.
Dealer is prob gonna want $300 to fix it with a new OEM P&C kit. OEM P&C Kits are around $200, pistons $75. You can do it yourself easy saw to work on. If you do a P&C change you will need a T-27 6" long socket or T handle. The only problem I've run into is the T handle and the long socket won't go in the AV spring on the cyl. I fortunately had a L shape T-27 filed it down a little to fit.
261 NAH! 550XP YES!
Shep

54cc sounds like it is for the PS-540, a seriously demoted and "detuned" version of the much older PS-115iH. Those saws have a much longer stroke than the 5100 etc, 34 mm vs 31.5 if memory serves, so there is very little chance that anything fits between them..

 

[bsheldon]

Thanks NCFARMBOY and MCW

I'll go and buy a T27 socket tonight and see if I can figure how to get it apart this weekend. The weather is supposed to be horrible so I'll be inside anyway.

As much as I would love to drop $600-$700 on a new saw, this one that I already dropped $500 on a few years back is what I have and really like. Hopefully, I can fix it myself rather inexpensively. If this turns into a nightmare, I may take someone up on taking it off of my hands for me cheap. Now if that becomes a reality, which I hope it doesn't, and I have to buy a new one, I have 4 Stihl dealers within 10 minutes of me and only 1 Husky dealer about 30 minutes away. I have held the 346XP and I did like how it felt, but 3 years ago when I bought my 5105, I was looking for the lightest saw to pull a 20" bar with 3/8 teeth. From all the research I did between the MS260, PS5100, and 346XP, the Dolmar was the best option for my needs. Plus, it just so happened to be the cheapest option by about $100. I cut firewood--already dead oak almost exclusively, somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 cords a year. That figure will be closer to 10 cords a year moving forward-2 homes and a cabin 2 stoves, and 2 inserts total. I do some felling, but not much, almost exclusively bucking with hardly any limbing ever. I am fortunate to have a lot of woods that I have access to. I mostly just clean up what Mother Nature knocks down each year. Again in the 50CC class I feel I got the correct saw for my needs at the time. I have a ton of time on the old MS360 and love its acceleration and screaming top end, but I always felt beat up and wore out after I used it, and the 60cc class saws (specifically the MS361) 3years ago were at least $200 more than I paid for my Dolmar. That is why I went 50cc class.

I really do like the 5105--tooless everything access, awesome looking and very practical double dawgs, new filter design, the easy controls, the super, super easy starting and best of all, the torque. I regularly bury the 20" bar and she just tugs her right through. Now would a 1/2 more HP or 1000 more RPM's be nice--of course. So that now has me thinking: I have done some research on "woods porting" and am intrigued. The figures I kept seeing in the threads was anywhere from $150 to $250 to have it done. Since I am already going to have to put at the very least $100 into this saw and I have been wanting to swap out the Cat muffler for the $40 5100 one for a while now and drill it out a bit. So, what do you guys think about just sinking a bit more money into the saw I already have and like and making it an even stronger runner than what I could get for about double the money?

So, now I'm down to 4 options:

1) Try to fix it myself for cheap. If I do this where do I buy parts?--Baileys? Edge and Engine? etc? I would like to stay with board sponsors.

2) Take it to my dealer and eat the $300--This is probably the safest route, but safe is boring.

3) Sell it and start over. I might even talk myself into the 60cc class, but that may be more that I need as the new 50cc's are supposed to be awesome and my current 50cc has enough power.

4) Find someone I can send it to from within this forum or a sponsor of this forum that I can send it to to have it completely redone--new muff mod, woods ported and new P&C. I am really leaning this way, but I have no idea who in here to go to. Suggestions? BTW, I'm in St Louis, MO, but I can send anywhere.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[steve316]

Stumpy not to far from you; if you have it fixed and or ported. He will treat you right and dose a great job. Also you can do the work yourself, if you run into problems they are members that will talk you thru it. good luck Steve

 

[bsheldon]

What is the exact screen name of "Stumpy?" I have seen him referenced as "stumps" also, I believe. I did a member search and didn't find either of those.

Apparently he is somehwere in the midwest?

If you don't know him, someone else that can do it. I'm in St. Louis, but can ship anywhere.
Read above about what I need/want done--basically a mild port, muff mod with new cylinder.

I would like to contact him (or someone else on here) about working on my saw.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

What is the exact screen name of "Stumpy?" ...

Apparently he is somehwere in the midwest?

...I'm in St. Louis, but can ship anywhere.
...what I need/want done--basically a mild port, muff mod with new cylinder.

I would like to contact him ...

Screen Name: "Stumpys Customs"
Location: south central MO
email: [email protected]

He posts lots of pics of his projects on AS; from everything I've seen and read, his craftsmanship is first-rate. Sorry to hear about the mixed-up gas cans.