Don't buy this ( Tachometer )

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I've had $300-$500 Fluke meters crap out just sitting in office. Always the display. What I have learned is the dust gets in them and does something to the connection from board to the LCD itself. See if it is direct soldered or plug. If plug in style, pull apart, blow off, use alcohol and clean, put back together and cross fingers. I have not had to get a meter repaired in years!!!

Bruce

Funny, I have had the same experience with Fluke meters, I have had 4 or 5 of them at work, but at home I have a UEI that has been beat, banged, left out in the rain, my kid's have pulled the rubber button's off and that thing still works great.
 
I've had $300-$500 Fluke meters crap out just sitting in office. Always the display. What I have learned is the dust gets in them and does something to the connection from board to the LCD itself. See if it is direct soldered or plug. If plug in style, pull apart, blow off, use alcohol and clean, put back together and cross fingers. I have not had to get a meter repaired in years!!!

Bruce

Funny, I have had the same experience with Fluke meters, I have had 4 or 5 of them at work, but at home I have a UEI that has been beat, banged, left out in the rain, my kid's have pulled the rubber button's off and that thing still works great. Its probably 7 or 8 years old to boot.
 
I've had $300-$500 Fluke meters crap out just sitting in office. Always the display. What I have learned is the dust gets in them and does something to the connection from board to the LCD itself. See if it is direct soldered or plug. If plug in style, pull apart, blow off, use alcohol and clean, put back together and cross fingers. I have not had to get a meter repaired in years!!!

Bruce

Funny, I have had the same experience with Fluke meters, I have had 4 or 5 of them at work,
[snip]

Ditto with my old Fluke meter.

Pop it open, clean the connection between the screen and board (in this case they are just touch contacts) and away I go again for another two years till it starts to play up again.
The same with the push buttons. It's just dust/crap interfering with the connection.

Contact cleaner works wonders.
 
I took it apart and tinkered a bit, no luck. You can almost see it but that is with lot of light. outside you can only see the bottom half of the numbers
stuff216.jpg
 
I took it apart and tinkered a bit, no luck. You can almost see it but that is with lot of light. outside you can only see the bottom half of the numbers
stuff216.jpg

Had the same problem with a screen on a turbo timer.
Had a dry solder joint.
Resoldered, good as gold.
Check that row of soldered joints along the bottom of the screen. Some are pretty hard to see (dry solder).
 
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Had the same problem with a screen on a turbo timer.
Had a dry solder joint.
Resoldered, good as gold.
Check that row of soldered joints along the bottom of the screen. Some are pretty hard to see (dry solder).

:agree2: If they do not fix it for you then take the soldering iron to it and test/fix all the display connections. The screen obviously works but has a bad connection.
 
Just yesterday, mine started reading at double the actual rpm. Lumberjackchef's old Pioneer was idling at 4300 rpm, supposedy. Same tach. I had had it for a year and a half, and it worked great. Maybe there is a different setting on it. I like the tach, it comes in very handy.
 
Just yesterday, mine started reading at double the actual rpm. Lumberjackchef's old Pioneer was idling at 4300 rpm, supposedy. Same tach. I had had it for a year and a half, and it worked great. Maybe there is a different setting on it. I like the tach, it comes in very handy.

My Sendec was doing goofy stuff like that on my old Macs. I chalked it up to the points system and deployed the spring clip and wire that came with the tach... No more trouble.
 
My Sendec was doing goofy stuff like that on my old Macs. I chalked it up to the points system and deployed the spring clip and wire that came with the tach... No more trouble.

It did it even using the wire. Maybe it will reset itself.

I didn't even think about the battery. So points ignition must emit a different type of EMP, I guess.
 
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I would suggest waiting to hear back from the manufacturer before I tried to re solder any connections or do any repairs on the tach. Those solder connections were not done by any human hand. They are so close together & so tiny that you will end up, at the very least, soldering several adjoining pins from the LCD together. Those are usually wave soldered by a machine which solders all of the pin connections at one time. I doubt that the manufacturer would feel sympathetic toward someone who has obviously made an attempt to repair their own equipment. Now, on the other hand, if the manufacturer says that you are SOL, then have at it.
 
A sirometer is a good alternative. No batteries.
Set it for the revs you want; tape it down adjust your needles until it does its thing. Not as "cool" as an led one but it is accurate and won't let you down.
-br
 
Had mine for about 3 yr. Solid as a rock. Original batteries too.

Now my microwave is a different story. Those pixie, dixie, wixie (or what ever they're called) lights went out 4 yrs. ago. :dizzy:
 
I would suggest waiting to hear back from the manufacturer before I tried to re solder any connections or do any repairs on the tach. Those solder connections were not done by any human hand. They are so close together & so tiny that you will end up, at the very least, soldering several adjoining pins from the LCD together. Those are usually wave soldered by a machine which solders all of the pin connections at one time. I doubt that the manufacturer would feel sympathetic toward someone who has obviously made an attempt to repair their own equipment. Now, on the other hand, if the manufacturer says that you are SOL, then have at it.

As would I... I have been looking hard at this one, too bad yours crapped out on you so soon. Guess that it is good that I haven't made a quick decision on this one. Let us know how it goes!
 

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