Goody, what I would really do is notch the left side and drop it across the drive and clean it up. Then drop the right side and repeat. But, coming from 50 years of reidential tree work, I know that giving begginers in AR advice from MD can be very dangerous. I know how sharp and powerful my saws are. I have lots of friends that like to show me how fast their saws will cut, and when I get there, they won't cut hot butter. If I tell you to stand on the ground and notch one side, back cut it, and step back out of the way, that's based on my equipment. If your saw is just a litle bit duller than mine, you won't be able to do that. In a couple seconds I could back cut either side of that tree to the point the hinge will snap clean off when it closes up. If your saw won't do that, and the brush hits the ground before the log jumps off the stump you may be in danger. It can twist and roll unexpectedly, it can shoot straight back at you, or it might just hang on and make it real easy to limb up, keeping everything off the ground and away from the gravel. So, that's why I'd said I'd just strap my hooks on, walk up, and top it out, easy peasy. Just remember there are a few pro's that hang out in this forum, but there are a lot more non pro's, so be careful. That tree does not look dangerous or hard to take down, so my advice from MD would be, I'd put a pull line 2/3 of the way to the top to help guide it, that can help a little if something goes a little wrong, and help keep it from jumping back on you, if you have someone on the other end keeping the rope tight as it comes over. Tag lines will help a little too, if you don't get a good notch in it. Always keep you eyes moving up. A little stick from 50 feet up can hit you in the head like an arrow. Be careful, and good luck. OH, do not just start a back cut and cut through. 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the log can split verticly, called a "Barber Chair", that can happen much faster than you can react, and can be very dangerous. Again, be careful, that's all from MD.