I'm not sure the EZ is configured like the Super XL is. It may not have that bracket on the side of the engine. Did you put anything in the port to loosen it up?
dug up old Homelite Super EZ- maybe seized?
- Thread starter bubbas_son
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bubbas_son
ArboristSite Operative
FREED UP! Cranks easily! Figured I would try turning the nut on the flywheel... and it turned! A little stiff at first, but then it started turning easier. I had tried Marvel Mystery oil overnight 2 days ago, then dumped that and tried regular mix gas to soak in last night. I also hanged the saw so crud would drip out of the spark plug hole, and sprayed WD40 in the exhaust port to rinse out the gunk I had loosened up.
Now to actually get 'er running!
Now to actually get 'er running!
Yep, that works more often than not...
I might be interested in it as a spare parts machine for mine if you decide to do such send me a PM.
I have one of those Super Ez's that I still use at the woodlot.
Also if it's been at rest very long it will most likely also need the carb rebuilt.
I think I remember still from few years ago my carb came off easy enough but re-installing the linkages going back was a real pain.
I have one of those Super Ez's that I still use at the woodlot.
Also if it's been at rest very long it will most likely also need the carb rebuilt.
I think I remember still from few years ago my carb came off easy enough but re-installing the linkages going back was a real pain.
I would imaging it wouldn't be hard to get this one going. I've seen old Homelites that sat for years and fired right up, even with the old gas..
Yup just fired up a XL 922 that had been sitting at least 10 yrs,runs good on the old gas.
bubbas_son
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I wasn't able to get it started today. Carb probably is gummed up. I will try to figure out how to pull it (the carb) off when I get time; maybe not till next weekend.
I'd check it for spark first, then put a little fuel mix in it to see if it hits..
Like a palmer jr says check for spark first. Pull the spark plug so the engine spins good when you crank it and ground the plug to the case good and crank. If it has spark give it a little prime of mixed gas into the carb throat, set toggle switch UP to run, pull the throttle trigger all way down and THEN set choke to the 1/2 out notch. This engauges the compression release and holds the throttle at medium speed above idle.
Some of the EZ's are really cold natured and don't start easily after been at rest for awhile. (and when the compression release is engauged they crank easily and will feel like they won't ever start when pulling the rope due to real low compression.
You may know this but:
Normal starting procedure is, toggle switch UP to run, hold trigger switch down, then pull choke all way out, crank until it pops, then set choke to 1/2 out and it will then start on 1/2 choke and when it takes throttle push choke all way in too off. If you keep cranking it on full choke after it pops first time they will usually flood and hard to start. (most will not ever start and run on full choke and easily flood if you keep cranking on full choke. Some even want a 1/2 choke when the engine is warm for a re-start or to get the promise pop for start. Anytime you hear a pop promise start reducing choke.
It's been few years since I had a carb off of my EZ for a kit, it came off easy, but I remember it was a real pain getting the throttle linkage re-connected underneath the carb when re-installing. I think the carb has a Walbro number stamped on so you can get the correct kit. Keep a heads up when working on it and be careful, some of the small parts are getting hard to find if broke or lost.
Don't set the carb lean when you get it running.
I have done a complete overhaul of my old Super EZ a couple of years ago.
I bought some spare parts from " Leon's chainsaw parts & repair". Excellent service!
I can share a useful doc: spare parts list.
I have Homelite Service Manual too, but it's to big to send here (75 MB).
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I bought some spare parts from " Leon's chainsaw parts & repair". Excellent service!
I can share a useful doc: spare parts list.
I have Homelite Service Manual too, but it's to big to send here (75 MB).
Inviato dal mio Moto G (4) utilizzando Tapatalk
bubbas_son
ArboristSite Operative
I'm back! Still working on getting her running. Now I have realized that I have no spark. I took the coil off and it looks like something battered it pretty good.
Some of the plastic is ripped off the coil- would that cause it to fail?
I have also done some research here on the coil... evidently the blue one that I have is "DREADED"? Haha, I haven't really tried to get the flywheel off
so I don't know if I am dealing with points or electronic ignition. Please see picture..
Some of the plastic is ripped off the coil- would that cause it to fail?
I have also done some research here on the coil... evidently the blue one that I have is "DREADED"? Haha, I haven't really tried to get the flywheel off
so I don't know if I am dealing with points or electronic ignition. Please see picture..
Even if you have the "dreaded blue coil" I think you might be able to replace it with a black one. I believe that's an electronic ignition (no points) so you might be able to find something that fits. If it fits it might work, even if it's not from an EZ saw. There should be plenty of the XL and Super 2 modules laying around and I imagine one of those would fit..
There is a thread somewhere, either here or HOH that has the steps to convert to a Husky (51 I think) coil. Or if you really just want to get it running quicker and don't mind shelling out cash, the replacement blue coils are 53 bucks on Ebay.
I think those blue coils had all the electronic ignition inside the coil is one reason they are expensive.
AND I do not know for sure but heard a rumor that if you install points and condenser type ignition system using that electronic flywheel it may not run correctly?
Not sure just a rumor I read somewhere on this forum.
AND I do not know for sure but heard a rumor that if you install points and condenser type ignition system using that electronic flywheel it may not run correctly?
Not sure just a rumor I read somewhere on this forum.
I think you are correct. I have been bitten twice by blue coil saws and plan to avoid them going forward at all costs.
Also if I remember correctly, there are different diameter crank noses which add to the enigma of converting from electronic to points as there are more than two flywheels. I think this was in the SXL/XL-12 saws and not the SEZ though.
I think I remember still from few years ago my carb came off easy enough but re-installing the linkages going back was a real pain.[/QUOTE]
The carb is a Walbro HDC and I recently came up with a solution to reduce the PITA re-installing those carb's and getting the linkage re-connected.
First install the bar on the saw and place it in a vice so as the saw remains stationery while you are stabbing the carb.
Then take a tag wire (small wire from the feed tags for tagging equipment) and tie the throttle full open to the right hand side where the little lever and idle screw area is located, then take a 3/32 (.09375) drill bit and a variable speed drill on slow or even a hand chuck and gently ream the throttle hole at a 45 degree angle. This 3/32 bit is just a little bit larger than the throttle linkage wire and the 45 degree angle gives it a place for the lead stab hook on the end of the linkage to engauge more user friendly and reduces the PITA trying to stab blindly. Next screw all the jets and the idle screw to full seated in. and then place the 2 mounting screws into the carb body and set in in place at the left leaning angle and stab the throttle linkage using a small screwdriver to push assist and when it pops in turn the carb level and use the jet holes in the side to align the carb and back out the jet screws and the idle screw couple turns to hold the carb in place. If you turn them out too far the carb will not align properly to start one of the screws. You can feel one of the screws in place with your fingers, Then something that really helps is a 5/16 ratcheting gearwrench end wrench. Before doing all of this I glue the carb gasket to the carb and Vaseline the intake side after the glue has dried. this allows the carb to be removed without breaking the gasket and keeps the gasket in place. After the carb is mounted you can cut the little tag wire on the right side idle lever
Tieing the throttle butterfly on the carb full open gives you more operating room for stabbing the linkage and you can get it lined up visually vs working blind.
Next is the itty bitty choke cotter pin. A piece of the tag wire works great here instead of the little brass pin.
The carb is a Walbro HDC and I recently came up with a solution to reduce the PITA re-installing those carb's and getting the linkage re-connected.
First install the bar on the saw and place it in a vice so as the saw remains stationery while you are stabbing the carb.
Then take a tag wire (small wire from the feed tags for tagging equipment) and tie the throttle full open to the right hand side where the little lever and idle screw area is located, then take a 3/32 (.09375) drill bit and a variable speed drill on slow or even a hand chuck and gently ream the throttle hole at a 45 degree angle. This 3/32 bit is just a little bit larger than the throttle linkage wire and the 45 degree angle gives it a place for the lead stab hook on the end of the linkage to engauge more user friendly and reduces the PITA trying to stab blindly. Next screw all the jets and the idle screw to full seated in. and then place the 2 mounting screws into the carb body and set in in place at the left leaning angle and stab the throttle linkage using a small screwdriver to push assist and when it pops in turn the carb level and use the jet holes in the side to align the carb and back out the jet screws and the idle screw couple turns to hold the carb in place. If you turn them out too far the carb will not align properly to start one of the screws. You can feel one of the screws in place with your fingers, Then something that really helps is a 5/16 ratcheting gearwrench end wrench. Before doing all of this I glue the carb gasket to the carb and Vaseline the intake side after the glue has dried. this allows the carb to be removed without breaking the gasket and keeps the gasket in place. After the carb is mounted you can cut the little tag wire on the right side idle lever
Tieing the throttle butterfly on the carb full open gives you more operating room for stabbing the linkage and you can get it lined up visually vs working blind.
Next is the itty bitty choke cotter pin. A piece of the tag wire works great here instead of the little brass pin.
bubbas_son
ArboristSite Operative
I read on "Leon's Chainsaw parts" that he revives some of these by baking them at about 200 degrees in a toaster over for several hours.
Could you tell me though, would the piece of plastic that is torn off the coil (exposing the metal underneath) render the coil useless? I thought it might short it out or something...
Could you tell me though, would the piece of plastic that is torn off the coil (exposing the metal underneath) render the coil useless? I thought it might short it out or something...
I read about that and still have one or two non functional blue coils to try it on.
I think if you have one that has a hairline crack that allowed moisture in, you can sometimes force the moisture out and make it work indefinitely. Others work for a short time and then crap out again.
Some saws will and others won't. I think a module from another Homelite would work on this one. Probably even a Poulan module would work. Weedeater modules generally won't, at least the ones I've tried..
You can try it but odds are it will not be a permanent fix if it even brings it back to life.
I've tried the baking thing on magneto coils that were cracked and I've also tried re-insulating the cracked epoxy when the coil was arcing thru to it's metal laminations frame and never had any luck getting a permanent long term fix doing such. When the epoxy breaks off moisture gets inside and the coil arcs to the frame ground and burns a carbon trail and you try to break the carbon trail but it will just make another because the insulation on the small wire inside is bad which allows the arc to start. Moisture also increases the arcing because it's arcing thru water instead of air.
