Easy2start can it be made to work, or ditch it?

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I've got a very good running MS250 here that I was going to sell. Had a guy come to look at it this morning(0f this morning) and it plain old didn't want to turn over, probably took 5 minutes of just making it past TDC once before it was loosened up enough that the spring would turn it over.
Looking at it I really don't see any way of making it better short of shortening the spring so it has some more tension.
Is there something else here, or should I just ditch it for a standard recoil and flywheel?
 
Your carburetor probably leaked fuel into the engine crankcase enough to cause hydraulic lock.
Hydraulic lock is when the piston can't compress or move the liquid out of the way when it goes down.
Large fluctuations in high and low temps in combination with a fuel tank that is filled all the way up can generate more pressure than the carburetor needle can handle.
When the temp goes way down, the fuel volume shrinks creating a vacuum. This vacuum can suck in air through the tank vent, which has a one way check valve that lets air in, but lets none out. Somethings got to give when the temperature rises. If the tank vent can hold more pressure than the needle, then the needle loses.
 
My Dad's MS250 has it and it works fine. Probably the nicest made part on the thing, with a cast mag housing.
 
Pretty sure I can rule hydraulic lock out, it had been sitting with an empty tank and I only put gas in it this am.
It doesn't really pull it over with much force even when it's warm. Some pulls it doesn't turn it at all.
The only other think of is legnth of the rewind rope. Does anyone have a spec on the proper legnth?
 
Pretty sure I can rule hydraulic lock out, it had been sitting with an empty tank and I only put gas in it this am.
It doesn't really pull it over with much force even when it's warm. Some pulls it doesn't turn it at all.
The only other think of is legnth of the rewind rope. Does anyone have a spec on the proper legnth?

Length of the rope is not usually an issue. I sell a great many of them.. 180, 211 etc..
Standard is Starter rope Ø 3x800 mm
C-BE is Starter rope Ø 2.7x910 mm
check to make sure the e-clip is still there. I have seen them missing.
 
I've got a very good running MS250 here that I was going to sell. Had a guy come to look at it this morning(0f this morning) and it plain old didn't want to turn over, probably took 5 minutes of just making it past TDC once before it was loosened up enough that the spring would turn it over.
Looking at it I really don't see any way of making it better short of shortening the spring so it has some more tension.
Is there something else here, or should I just ditch it for a standard recoil and flywheel?
Hmm, I haven't worked on a easy to start saw, but I did work on a easy start blower a while ago probably quit similar. I'm not sure, but I think there may some internal differences in the engine, not just a matter of changing over the flywheel and starter? I'm not a total fan of the system either. Have a blower with and w/o the easy start. I will take the non easy start any day. Just remembered, I got the easy start blower cause it wouldn't pull over. What had happened was the screws that were holding a plate in behind the flywheel had loosened up, binding the flywheel. It would turn over, but very hard. Tightened up the bolts and haven't had a problem since.
 
The remaining rope is around 750mm, I don't see under an inch being the issue. And of course the thing started perfectly fine in the warm shop last night, one pull and away it went. The E-clip is there and I can't see anything physically wrong. There is nothing dragging or causing extra resistance, it's just harder to turn over in the cold, and that spring doesn't want any part of it.
My time working at dealer level on these things predates this recoil setup, and my instinct is to ditch it.
 
The starter is a different animal, it loads up the starting action, and an old gentleman can do several short pulls to "load it up" until it releases it's starting action. Which is why it was designed that way.
 
It was funny when it first came out, at one dealership, the sales guy would pull it to show how it worked, trying to sell a guy on the idea, and later in the day, we would hear the saw try to start, sitting on the shelf.
 
Hmm, I might need to dig a little deeper. This one doesn't seem to have any sort of a rachet or similar that would allow it to do that.
I'm pretty sure there is no ratchet. It's just a two spring arrangement - there is a large, heavy spring that is added, and you wind up that large spring until it overcomes the engine compression. That way you can pull slowly rather than having to overcome the compression directly.

I have one on another saw that is ported and has increased compression, and it sometimes has trouble overcoming that.
 

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