Echo CS-352 - How to remove / replace / tighten Intake Boot

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B.C.

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Hello all. Looked around and couldn't find any info anywhere on how to get at the intake boot clamp on an echo cs-352. Maybe I'm dumb and I just very well could be but I can't seem to figure out how to get the little white plastic bracket off the saw body so I can get at the intake boot! I have the screws out and it can jiggle around just the slightest bit but I can't seem to get it off there and I didn't want to pry on it too much and break something. I'm sure there is a trick I'm missing here.

Saw runs good, starts good, but once it gets hot it speeds up significantly. I guess I'm not certain that isn't normal for this saw or not but its idling at about 3400 and the max hits almost 13k which seems a bit high. The caps were all the way out CCW (before cutting and post warm up for about 1 minute it was right at about 3k / 11,500) After a few cuts it went higher and I suspected air. The "clamp" on the intake boot to cylinder isn't really a clamp, it's just a white plastic ring and it really doesn't seem tight at all. I think I'd like to take a boot clamp from a stihl and put that on there so I can make sure it's nice and tight before I go chasing any other problems, but I can't get that darn block out of the way that the boot goes through. It's stuck to the body pretty good and I'm stumped.

Any tips would be great and most appreciated.
 
I have one but have never messed with the intake, only removed the limiters and opened up the muffler. I think mine tachs around 11, I would say 13 is a little high.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
ammoaddict said:
I have one but have never messed with the intake, only removed the limiters and opened up the muffler. I think mine tachs around 11, I would say 13 is a little high.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, that's kinda what I was thinking, 13's gotta be way too high and that was before I removed the limiters with it as rich as it would go so it shouldn't have been that high.

I tried removing the spark plug and prying up on it with a long screwdriver over top of the cylinder for a fulcrum and I still couldn't get the booger off. It wiggles more now. If I really reefed on it I'm sure I could but I've already gone well past the amount of force I would have thought necessary to remove it. I've seen other guys port the cylinder so I'm sure they know how to get it off there but I sure don't.
 
As the blockhead I am I just consider the cut; if it runs clean in the cut and 4strokes immediately when it runs free I'm happy. Better follow the manual though.
I don't have a CS-352 (at least yet) that's just how I consider my chainsaw tuning in general.
I have a tachometer, it's in my workshop - it don't make me feel or hear anything at all.
 
B.C. said:
Thanks for the input, that's kinda what I was thinking, 13's gotta be way too high and that was before I removed the limiters with it as rich as it would go so it shouldn't have been that high.

I tried removing the spark plug and prying up on it with a long screwdriver over top of the cylinder for a fulcrum and I still couldn't get the booger off. It wiggles more now. If I really reefed on it I'm sure I could but I've already gone well past the amount of force I would have thought necessary to remove it. I've seen other guys port the cylinder so I'm sure they know how to get it off there but I sure don't.
Click to expand...
Turn it left while prying with the screwdriver. They do get stuck on the plug
 
Suppose I need to get better at listening for 4 stroke, I'm not great at it still. I don't like when they change speed pretty dramatically though like that, seems to pretty much always indicate either a carburetor, air leak or seal problem. Nearly every saw I have that actually runs really good will throttle up to full speed without much warmup and before I hit a cut so this cs-352 didn't seem right, and I also don't trust that little white plastic ring, it's not tight. I just monkeyed with a 290 the other day that I forgot to torque down the clamp on the intake boot and it was running whacky, speeding up and down. Tightened up the boot and it was fine. Think I've got more saws that don't run right than ones that do and pretty much all of em seem like a carburetor or air leak issue. I suspect it's grabbing air somewhere it's not supposed to to jump 1500 on the high end at WOT. I have a MS250 I'm trying to work the bugs out of that I suspect the boot may be an issue on as well. I don't think those have an actual clamp either but I haven't torn into it yet. Just grabbed a brand new carb from the local dealer for it today and I'll be slappin that on to see. Passed a pressure test cold, think it's gotta be a carb issue or it's sucking air when hot on that one too. Saw a vid from a guy with a husqvarna that was giving him fits and he figured out the problem was the intake boot leaked but only when hot.

Dahmer thanks for that info and screen shot. Seems newer saws can go pretty high but I'm not used to that, I don't like running them that high, bothers me like I'm gonna blow it up. It was cutting good down around 11,500. I was actually surprised how well it cut for such a relatively low CC saw. No idea what it's actual HP is since Echo doesn't tell ya. I got an old 302 14" that I love though, great old saw and one of my favorites is an old 500vl. Got a real nice low end rumble on it for a 50cc saw and good torque. Anyway though.

I'll give the pry & twist a try tomorrow and hope for the best. I reefed on it pretty much every which way and it seemed all I was gonna do was break it but I'll try again.
 
svk said:
Haven’t tried it but if you gut the muffler you’ll get a huge increase in power.

I can imagine a running advance will add a bit more as well.
Click to expand...
I did that after the first time I ran it. That muffler got HOT with that cat in it. Runs much cooler now.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
OP I’ve had a few of these. Had one apart and can’t remember for the life of me what I needed to do. If you can’t figure it out from the other suggestions post a pic and I’ll see if I can remember.
 
Will do SVK, I doubt I'm gonna figure it out as I'd already reefed on it pretty much every which way but I am gonna try again, and I will definitely post a pic because I'm doubting I will be successful! Haha.
 
Holy crap, is that what you have to do? Is it a clamshell type that will stay together? I don't get what the hell is holding the white piece on? Its stuck to the case, I don't think removing the engine will free it still? Unless you know for sure it will and that's what you have to do.
 
I can’t remember if the bottom bolts hold the bottom of the case together or not. But you can then lift it up and out of the case.
 
Huh, I guess I'll give it a try here. I looked on the bottom and there aren't any bolts in the white part unless they were hidden inside the tank or something and I couldn't figure out how the heck it could hold on so tight like that if it was just the rubber holding it but maybe there's something I'm missing so I guess I'll give it a try and post back when I know more. Thanks.
 
ammoaddict said:
Anyone ever done a timing advance on one of these?

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Click to expand...

These have a lot of ignition advance built into the coil I wouldn’t add more just open the muffler up and pull the limiters.
 

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