Efco 62cc woods port

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Using the Efco intake elbow tool. Efco # 001000682A, available from Bailey's. Some grease has been smeared on the boot.
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Fold the boot and stuff it into the tool.
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Set the top cover on. Wiggle the tool up through the cover and hopefully, the boot will follow. This was my first try, the boot entered the cover part way......
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...... but still required a little coaxing to come all the way up.
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Deflector and screen removed to show OEM muffler exit hole. On a previous occasion, I'd enlarged this hole and tweaked the deflector opening, too.
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I enlarged it even more today. Previously tweaked deflector shown.
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Deflector on steroids.
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The finished product.
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I had planned to test the saw with a new 24" x 3/8" chain, but when I went to install a 3/8" rim, I discovered that the saw uses the small rims, which I'll have to order. Meanwhile, it's back to the 20" x 0.325".

There were no speed tests done, so all I can say is that nothing runs like a Deere. Seriously, it cuts great, but then, it has always cut great. I honestly can't tell much difference, except when I try to start it without using the decomp. :laugh:

It's currently tuned by tach to 13,500 rpm. It'll run up to 14,000+ if I let it, but I prefer to tune conservatively.

After 1/2 tank of gas, and still warm to the touch ..... 162 psi. I'm thinking it should be up around 170 psi, so I'll retest after it's been run more and then cooled down completely.
 
Great thread as usual.

Just a slight derailment question- so you insert the paper into the cylinder, then tape it to stay still? Then scrub the ports from the inside? I think I was going about it the wrong way.
 
Mtngun, did you get the 62 new? My 962 has a different piston. Looks like yours has the 165 piston. Ring pin location is different on my 962.
 
Stihl Crazy, yes I bought the saw new on the 'bay during the JD closeout. It's the only new saw I've ever owned. :msp_biggrin:

Dunno what to tell you about the pin location.

Did you get a replacement piston for yours ? When I heard TW mention that he needed to replace it, my first thought was "I bet one of the Meteor pistons for Stihl will fit it."

Little Possum, I apologize for missing your posts in January, but here's a tardy response. The ported CS62 does make more power on the top end, enough to pull 24" x 3/8 skip chain with authority, or 24" full comp as long as you don't dog it hard. It did lose a bit of grunt on the low end, but that's only noticeable when you first hit the throttle.

Somewhere along the way I dumped the nylon air filter and started using a flock filter sprayed with K&N filter oil. The oiled filter doesn't leak fines, but sometimes fines still find their way around the seal, more so on my 980. For that reason, I'm retiring my Efcos from milling duty and will only use them for firewood from now on.

To make the port map, I cut a piece of paper about 1/8" longer than the cylinder is deep, and wide enough to overlap slightly when you roll it up inside the jug.

Factory edge of the paper goes against the squish band, because you'll be measuring distances from that edge.

Instead of taping it, I just push the paper lightly against the squish band as I rub with the stubby, dull carpenters pencil. The 1/8" of paper that protrudes from the jug gives you something to push against.

I learned the port map technique from TW and really like it. It gives you a lot of information quickly. With the assistance of a computer program, you can calculate port timing and figure out how much you need to raise/lower a port to give you a certain timing figure.

Now that I've started to use MOTA, the port maps get used even more, cuz MOTA needs all the port widths, shapes, etc..

If I can find time, I'd like to tear into the CS62 again, even though it is running fine. For one thing, I left a little bit of power on the table, and for another thing, I'd like to measure it up and plug it into MOTA just so I have that model in my MOTA database.
 

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