Effect on the Lumber

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gumneck

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I've been taking some yellow pines down in my yard and running my alaskan mill acrossed them for building grade lumber. The last one I cut down and milled was in April I believe. The 7"x7"x14' beam I cut out of it must have had alot of sap in it b/c its gets mold on it even after I've sprayed it down with bleach/water mixture. The beam is sitting under a barn carport shelter and is 2 feet off the ground.
I'm anxious to get back climbing/cutting these pines but dont want to bring them down now b/c of all the sap(fear it would lead to more mold). Now the question:
If I were to go ahead and remove the limbs and tops and just leave the trunk standing that I intend to mill in the fall/winter, will this have any negative effect on the lumber? Other than having totem poles in the yard, What effect will this have on the sap that is in the tree now? Should I just wait till winter? I'd like to get a jump on the limbs/tops now so I can just get a line on the trunk later and bring it down. Tks for any help gents.
 
Hey Scott. If you could picture a barn shelter with two car sized bays(maybe 20' across) and the beam is sitting in the middle perpendicular to the back of barn. Both sides and the back are closed off. So its got 9' either side for air to move across. The reason I question timing of sap flow and cutting is b/c other beams I cut prior to this one were done in winter and they have no mold.

I would hope to mill the totem pole pines shortly after I'm done with the grapes(about Mid Oct). I would hope that the sap could be out by then.

Tks.Tom
 
moisture

Tom , I don't think that there is much difference in moisture content of pine cut in the southeast during any season . I remember a stack of lumber from one of your pictures that was outside and looked to be near the edge of the yard for better airflow . Have you ever seen the old pictures of wood air drying by leaning it up tee-pee style to get the best airflow ?
 
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That stack is right out in the open. Eventually I'm going to get something to have a roof over it.

I've heard stacking firewood like that to build up heat but not lumber. I would think that it would warp or cup.
 
heat

Tom , the tee-pee term was not the best way to describe the old wood drying method . Think of a X stacked vertically . It would take a horizontal beam at the correct height so that the lumber or beam to be dried can be propped up at about a 75 degree angle on edge then the board next to it is placed on the other side of the horizontal beam . The USDA Forest Service General Technical Report -117 (Air Drying of Lumber) has a picture of two vertical methods on page 39 . Last I heard it was still available as a pdf .
 
those little bastards look just like the ones we have here. there are many varieties, i believe, in the 20's. they kill the trees, but from what i have seen, they do not harm the wood. almost all the logs i cut are beetle kill. very rarely do the beams i cut have worm holes, when they do, i believe they are created by a second creature, not the beetle.
 
Tunnels

Sam , I've seen the pines that were killed by the beetles but never milled one . Years ago I milled several logs that were riddled with small tunnels that made a unique board but would not make a good stud or beam . Have you ever heard the beetles crunching inside the tree ?
 
i cut alot of pinon for firewood. it has been getting hit by the beetles lately. after cutting sitting around drinking a few beers, you can hear the beetles chewing, but they are just under the bark. when splitting pinon, i somtimes find big grubs, about 1/4" in diameter inch long. they are boring holes in the wood, but are only trees that have been dead for a while. and there arent very many.
 
don't know about the weather where your at but here in wisconsin . I would cut the trees down and leave limbs and tops on them for a couple weeks. This lets the needles draw out the moisture and sap.
 
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