Hi folks!
Trying to get my dads old 240 working properly again. I believe it's about 12 years old. I hate the saw (it just doesn't feel right), but well, I might learn something from it. Sadly he haven't taken proper care of it it, and it's mostly just been run and rudimentary sharpened for a decade doing low diameter soft wood for firewood. He's run it on 50:1 premix "biofuel" (Aspen and similar) all its life. He did use to take better care of things. It's insanely dirty and have a few issues like a worn-out brake handle (the plastic coupling to the brake band lever thingy in the clutch cover) and a sprocket with Grand Canyons it it. For the record, I'm no mech and just learning as I go by the power of Google, forums and Youtube.
So...
1. Saw starts and runs, kinda surprisingly hard yet manageable to crank. Thinking back, it's been like this for many years, maybe even since new. It runs and revs alright, but cuts like a butter knife through concrete (a poorly sharpened chain and wore out bar is definitely part of the reason).
2. Compression test shows values in the 190-200psi range. Kinda insane comparing to my own saws, Stihls and China-saws all doing 140-150ish or somewhat less. However those are slightly larger in cylinder volume and throws big ass chips even with my shaky hand-sharpening.
3. Easy to crank w/o the plug. No evidence of a leaking carb as in fuel blowing out the plug hole (carb still feels "stiff" and not really responding properly to adjustments).
4. Top of piston is brown-grayish but looks otherwise smooth through the openings, can't see what I would call carbon buildups, but I haven't broken the saw completely down so what the eff do I know.
I do know I have to change the brake handle and sprocket as they are worn to pieces and I suspect changing the carb won't be such a bad idea either, so I got those on order. Just hoping there's not something deeper wrong, because then I'm surely beyond my meager knowledge.
Anyhooo, what could explain such high compression?
Trying to get my dads old 240 working properly again. I believe it's about 12 years old. I hate the saw (it just doesn't feel right), but well, I might learn something from it. Sadly he haven't taken proper care of it it, and it's mostly just been run and rudimentary sharpened for a decade doing low diameter soft wood for firewood. He's run it on 50:1 premix "biofuel" (Aspen and similar) all its life. He did use to take better care of things. It's insanely dirty and have a few issues like a worn-out brake handle (the plastic coupling to the brake band lever thingy in the clutch cover) and a sprocket with Grand Canyons it it. For the record, I'm no mech and just learning as I go by the power of Google, forums and Youtube.
So...
1. Saw starts and runs, kinda surprisingly hard yet manageable to crank. Thinking back, it's been like this for many years, maybe even since new. It runs and revs alright, but cuts like a butter knife through concrete (a poorly sharpened chain and wore out bar is definitely part of the reason).
2. Compression test shows values in the 190-200psi range. Kinda insane comparing to my own saws, Stihls and China-saws all doing 140-150ish or somewhat less. However those are slightly larger in cylinder volume and throws big ass chips even with my shaky hand-sharpening.
3. Easy to crank w/o the plug. No evidence of a leaking carb as in fuel blowing out the plug hole (carb still feels "stiff" and not really responding properly to adjustments).
4. Top of piston is brown-grayish but looks otherwise smooth through the openings, can't see what I would call carbon buildups, but I haven't broken the saw completely down so what the eff do I know.
I do know I have to change the brake handle and sprocket as they are worn to pieces and I suspect changing the carb won't be such a bad idea either, so I got those on order. Just hoping there's not something deeper wrong, because then I'm surely beyond my meager knowledge.
Anyhooo, what could explain such high compression?