Joseph W Santora
ArboristSite Operative
Looking for a few recommendations on a good EZ-outish set.
EZ out recommendations
- Thread starter Joseph W Santora
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SawTrash
ArboristSite Member
Can't help you with current sources because mine were my Dad's probably bought before WW2 but my recent revelation may be helpful.
During a lifetime of fiddling with old machinery never once has a broken stud/screw left a nice flat surface to allow me to start a centred pilot hole easily.
I bought a cheap set of tungsten burrs for my Dremel from EvilBay. Two of them have a fine sharp point and have made life much easier.
During a lifetime of fiddling with old machinery never once has a broken stud/screw left a nice flat surface to allow me to start a centred pilot hole easily.
I bought a cheap set of tungsten burrs for my Dremel from EvilBay. Two of them have a fine sharp point and have made life much easier.
SawTrash
ArboristSite Member
Good video but broken stuff in a chainsaw is always tiny - last time I had to use an EZ out was for the screw holding a carb busted in the cylinder wall hole maybe 1/8 " OD
GoBigRed
ArboristSite Operative
Ahh yes. The old make it look easy YouTube video. But if it was always this easy, we wouldn’t have a need for any YouTube videos.
There are variables in the game of bolt extraction such as grade do the bolt and type of metal it’s screwed in to that a single type of extractor or method just ain’t the case. Then throw in corrosion and it’s a whole new ball game.
There are multiple designs and type of extractors. Each one has its application and is better or worse for what you are faced with.
Hit garage sales and buy a few. Always plenty there because after most attempts by people, they give up and it ends up in the tool box never to be used again. Of course it’s always the tools fault and never the mechanic in that situation
There are variables in the game of bolt extraction such as grade do the bolt and type of metal it’s screwed in to that a single type of extractor or method just ain’t the case. Then throw in corrosion and it’s a whole new ball game.
There are multiple designs and type of extractors. Each one has its application and is better or worse for what you are faced with.
Hit garage sales and buy a few. Always plenty there because after most attempts by people, they give up and it ends up in the tool box never to be used again. Of course it’s always the tools fault and never the mechanic in that situation
SawTrash
ArboristSite Member
Found the extracted bit in my scrap metal bin, did the job a week ago. Here's my set, well used by me and my dear old Dad, and his ancient folding ruler.
The extracting tools were made here in Australia by P and N in the long gone days when we had factories capable of manufacturing engineering supplies.
The extracting tools were made here in Australia by P and N in the long gone days when we had factories capable of manufacturing engineering supplies.
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Nobody said it was easy and the video didn't say it was easy, where did you pull that out of? In that video he only goes over different types and brands and explains which brands and types he has had the best luck with.Ahh yes. The old make it look easy YouTube video. But if it was always this easy, we wouldn’t have a need for any YouTube videos.
There are variables in the game of bolt extraction such as grade do the bolt and type of metal it’s screwed in to that a single type of extractor or method just ain’t the case. Then throw in corrosion and it’s a whole new ball game.
There are multiple designs and type of extractors. Each one has its application and is better or worse for what you are faced with.
Hit garage sales and buy a few. Always plenty there because after most attempts by people, they give up and it ends up in the tool box never to be used again. Of course it’s always the tools fault and never the mechanic in that situation
OP you didn't specify what you where working on and I was only showing you this since he is being brand specific and saying what type of easy out he has the best luck with and he is comparing major brands to help give you an idea. I know it costs to get good easy outs, I have some MAC's that are old and they have served me well but they are the twist in style and they do apply pressure outwards if there isn't much of the bolt left on the sides and it causes the bolt to dig in giving more resistance.
SawTrash I know what you mean about the smaller screws, I have a few I was able to get a left hand drill to get out but for the most part I haven't had a lot of luck once they get down that small and are really stuck in there. If it's safe to get a torch around it I will heat it a few times to try to help break the bond.
Left hand drill is the only thing I've ever had success with. Weld a nut on top or cut a slot in it with a Dremel lots, but never had an easy out work at all.
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors/13-pc-Hex-Bolt-Extractor-Set/BEX13A
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Multispline-Extractors/15-pc-Multispline-Extractor-Set/REX15B
I have both of these and cannot speak high enough about their performance.
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Multispline-Extractors/15-pc-Multispline-Extractor-Set/REX15B
I have both of these and cannot speak high enough about their performance.
I find that bolt extractors just create more work, if the bolt breaks i just drill and tap it, drill and time cert it or weld a nut onto it. The extractors almost never work, end up breaking leaving you royally fudged being they are hardened steel. I will try drilling a little hole using a lefty bit and tapping in a allen or torx bit to turn it out, if it does not come out easily with heat and lube it gets fully drilled then tapped. Patience and experience is the key.
Hmmm, isn't that a Echo carb jet limiter removal device?
Greta Thunberg: How dare you adjust that smoke belching earth killing device...Hmmm, isn't that a Echo carb jet limiter removal device?
Me: Honestly miss... what is this device you speak of??.... (insert grin and said limiter removal device in hand behind back)
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I have this set and love it.
Of course chainsaw/trimmer work makes it all a lot trickier.
Of course chainsaw/trimmer work makes it all a lot trickier.
Very dependent on what your trying to remove, ironically I have most of what the video guy has save I don't have a set of the tapered straight flute removers. Cobalt or carbide bits are typically a must, but normally if space allows end up drilling them out and using a insert. Drill jigs are great too if you have the space to use them. Those darn ford mod motors and manifold bolts you pretty much need the jig. Just swung a low mile used engine in my expedition and half the bolts were broken off, doesn't take much to be off when your drilling steel out of aluminum. Fortunately my cousin had a drill jig and I had carbide bits that made life worlds easier. Still drilled them out to accept inserts and stainless studs.
