Face cuts/Notch cuts

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ATEC15

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What are the difference in these cuts?Do you use these in certain situations and different angles of the tree leaning? Does it matter what notch/face cut to use? Is there a link that I could read about it?

Example:
__\ straight bottom, angle from top to down

__ straight top, angle from bottom to top
/

> angle top and angle bottom
 
What are the difference in these cuts?Do you use these in certain situations and different angles of the tree leaning? Does it matter what notch/face cut to use? Is there a link that I could read about it?

Example:
__\ straight bottom, angle from top to down

__ straight top, angle from bottom to top
/

> angle top and angle bottom

yes, yes and yes. Do a search on here and YouTube for cutting leaners, it might save your life. A lot of the rest of it is about saving merchantable wood. I've learned a lot from the guys on this forum in the last couple yrs
 
I've learned a lot from the guys on this forum...

This and the other aborist/landscape/firewood oriented forums are the reason I love technology... probably one of the best information gathering tools ever invented! Everybody throws in questions, answers, bits & pieces of tricks they've learned. Can shave years off of the learning curve. I learn something new and useful every week!
 
What are the difference in these cuts?Do you use these in certain situations and different angles of the tree leaning? Does it matter what notch/face cut to use? Is there a link that I could read about it?

Example:
__\ straight bottom, angle from top to down

__ straight top, angle from bottom to top
/

> angle top and angle bottom
Quick summary- Straight Bottom most commonly used in a normal removal, possibly because the angle is easiest to cut from Up to Down because the kerf holds the weight of the saw. Straight Top, Angle from bottom to top commonly used for valuable saw timber, because it removes most of the notch wood from the root flare, which has no value at the mill. A more difficult notch because you have to remove more wood to clean the notch going through the (thicker) root flare and you have to hold the saw against gravity to make the cut. Angled top and bottom are used when you want the falling tree to stay on the hinge as long as possible, for instance when falling a leaner against or at angle to the lean. The wide notch lets the hinge bend as far as possible before it breaks, keeping the tree from jumping off the stump and providing better control of the direction of the fall. Again, more difficult than a standard notch because you have to remove more wood, against gravity, And you loose some of the benefit of the sighting line on your saw in "Aiming" your notch.
 
Given the choice, I prefer to make my notch cut from the bottom because the wood falls out on its own. I also think it bounces more when your two cuts have almost met making it a pretty good way to make sure you're not cutting into the hinge wood. This is especially helpful on really big timber when the notch wood has some good weight to it. How many times have you seen guys using the chainsaw bar to pry it out or if it's really big, an axe is used to hammer it out?
 
With the Humbolt cut (straight on top, angled from the bottom) there is less likelihood of the butt of the log jumping backwards off the cut. However, if your backcut is above the apex of the notch (where it should be), this likelihood is very low.
 

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