Farmall 460...cant get splitter to work, please help.

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ziggo_2

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I have a Farmall 460 and im trying to hook up my wood splitter to it. I get the hoses hooked up to the aux. hydraulics and my loader bucket will tilt down on its own. Then I have to move the valve on the splitter AND the valve for the loader to tilt bucket up. How can i get it so I can split like normal?

I thought the aux. hydraulics were pressure on one hose and return on the other? Why do I have to mess with the loader valves?

Im thinking of buying a new 3pt splitter but If it wont even work like this then i see no point in wasting 5-700 dollars.

Somebody please help!

Thanks
 
Need a little more info as to how you have your hoses hooked-up. For the quick fix, disconnect your loader hoses when splitting wood.
 
Sounds like you have 2 valves on the same circuit and that is the way mine is. The one on the tractor needs to be dumping to the splitter fulltime (I use a bungee and hold mine over) and the splitter should have an open center valve so it circulated until "go time".....
 
Been a long time since my 460 went down the road, but it sounds like your rear remotes and the bucket tilt circuits have been tied together some how. If you can get a pic of the plumbing it will help a lot.

Somewhere on the tractor, there should be a spot you can tie into and get full hydraulic pressure without using the remote valves. Can't help ya just where, but try asking here: Yesterday's Tractors Farmall page. There's a bunch of old Farmall guys there that can help out a bunch.

The hydraulics on that thing are gonna be S-L-O-W no matter how it's plumbed, a better option is a PTO hydraulic pump, like this one: Prince PTO pump It ain't a cheap option, but likely at least twice the flow of the old 460's pump.
 
460 hyd valve

It's been a while but I think the old farmalls and a lever to choose between one-way cylinder and two way cylinders on the rear hyd. valve. Try to get a hold of a owner manual if you can.
 
Just my 2 cents - A tractor like a 460 will never have the flow or pressure in it's hydraulic system to run a splitter the way a 5 hp engine & two stage pump will. Price of gas, tractor parts, etc, I'd rather run the 5 hp Briggs any day.
 
Just my 2 cents - A tractor like a 460 will never have the flow or pressure in it's hydraulic system to run a splitter the way a 5 hp engine & two stage pump will. Price of gas, tractor parts, etc, I'd rather run the 5 hp Briggs any day.

I ran a 3 point splitter with lift arm etc...on our 686 IH and it seemed to overheat the hydraulics.

Not to mention it seemed slow.
 
I have a owners manual, says pump is either 15 or17 gal per min. Doenst say much about hooking up hydraulics. Ive got a few other things im gonna try today. Ive got a bout two cords to split and ill be done for next winters wood. Its big stuff that me and my fiskars cant handle (mostly me).

Some of the splitters are pto powerd and some are run off tractor hydraulics.
I wanted to just hook up to the hydraulics but i dont want to ruin my pump either. Ive heard good things about the huskees. but id rather build my own i think.

Enough talking....off to the wood pile!
 
I run this one in the picture off of my tractors Hydraulics and it never seems to get hot? Not the fastest thing in the world, but it is acceptable. I may try it on my Farmall M this weekend to see if it is any faster.
 
Hyd. valve

Make sure the valve on the splitter is set up for open center hydraulics. When the valve is in neutral oil should be flowing though the valve back to the tractor. If oil can't flow back it will have to flow thought the relieve valve heating up the oil.
 
Make sure the valve on the splitter is set up for open center hydraulics. When the valve is in neutral oil should be flowing though the valve back to the tractor. If oil can't flow back it will have to flow thought the relieve valve heating up the oil.

open center is the only way i roll.

rain started just as i was getting goin. but i tried it with a bungee cord on the valve and unhooked the loader. It worked and its pretty fast, but i still couldnt split some of my ash, and i had to make sure i started on the right end of the log otherwise it wouldnt go at all. If i were to rate them by tonnage I would say my splitter alone is 10tons and being hooked up to the tractor was around 15 tons. I operates alot smoother when hooked up to the tractor. the hoses were getting warm but the were not hot by any means.

I think im going to have to make a bigger one this summer, or buy one and beef it up.
 
Zig - There must be something plumbed wrong with the loader or aux valve, but without pics it's hard to tell. The aux valve should just work a 2 way ram, one way is in, the other is out. Having the bucket move means oil is flowing to it. I think maybe someone Tee'd it, and that won't work as the oil will flow where the least resistance is. If you could get some pics on here, some of these guys are pretty shrewd. My 574 has a 12 gpm pump, but, a few gals of that is 'prioritized' for the ps & brakes, some loss in the lines & valves, by the time it got back to a splitter you'd be lucky to have 8 gpm. 52 hp gas hog running at pto speed to split wood?
 
Zig - There must be something plumbed wrong with the loader or aux valve, but without pics it's hard to tell. The aux valve should just work a 2 way ram, one way is in, the other is out. Having the bucket move means oil is flowing to it. I think maybe someone Tee'd it, and that won't work as the oil will flow where the least resistance is. If you could get some pics on here, some of these guys are pretty shrewd. My 574 has a 12 gpm pump, but, a few gals of that is 'prioritized' for the ps & brakes, some loss in the lines & valves, by the time it got back to a splitter you'd be lucky to have 8 gpm. 52 hp gas hog running at pto speed to split wood?

I dont know if its teed, but it woulndt surprise me. I just unhooked my loader and tied the valve off (or on) and used the splitter valve. my owners manual says ethier 15 or 17 gal/min pump, i dont know which i have but its still not enough so im leanin towards buying a splitter and beefing it up. Swisher has log splitters that are priced well. It would cost me around $1000 for the parts to make one not including the steel (i have) and time (i dont have).
 
My back hoe is the same way you can either run the front end loader or the backhoe, not both at the same time.
 
I run this one in the picture off of my tractors Hydraulics and it never seems to get hot? Not the fastest thing in the world, but it is acceptable. I may try it on my Farmall M this weekend to see if it is any faster.

Well, I tried it on my Farmall M....it ran faster than heck, but had NO power. Operating pressures must be quite a bit lower than my little Belarus but the GPM (flow) is definitely higher. The lines also got HOT like right NOW, and they get maybe luke warm on my belarus.

LM
 
Running a splitter on that kind of tractor hmmmm. Those pumps are 10-12gpm but thats at full high speed idle rpm where you will burn the most fuel. Best way on a tractor is through a Prince PTO pump, Also a diesel tractor will sip fuel compared to gas. Best thing would be a diesel with 1000rpm PTO so you can idle and have awesome flow. BTW my converted Farmall H has probably the same live pump your 460 has and its only 1200PSI. Yours might be as much as 1500 but probably not much more.
 
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